26th-Z

I had to laugh; "My old clapped out junk will beat your old clapped out junk...". Yea, yea, the TR6 guys should stick to their "ruggedly handsome body" and "beautiful engine". Everyone knows. I don't like the suggestion of milling the head, but all the others are good for getting extra horsepower. Head work can get real complicated. For instance, milling the head will put the cam out of proper height and you have to shim the cam towers up. Just balance the engine, perhaps a mild cam, and headers. Spend the bucks on bigger carburetors if you wish, but consider suspension tuning as part of the horsepower discussion. One of the reasons a Z is so fast is it's weight.

No real hijack - just a diversion. Zhome has a real good explanation of the limited production American models and they are mostly the 280 Z series of the S30. The Black Pearl and Zzap editions, for example. Our American 240Z came in one flavor and we consider different variants that were actually dealer add-ons after the car was imported. In other parts of the world and especially Japan, the S30 came in several different flavors. There was a basic Fairlady, a luxury Fairlady, a high performance Fairlady and a racing version of the high performance Fairlady. There were versions with different body work (Alan has a beautiful example) and different engines. And because so many military Americans were in Japan, there was a version for them to buy in Japan and take home with them. Some of those cars were actually limited productions and some were low production volume. Brian Long gives a great description of all the S30 versions in his book; "Datsun Z, Fairlady to 280". Check it out!

Alan, you make the old man laugh. Merry Christmas! I'm going to have to wait and see if Santa brings in the green crop. All I have at the moment is citrus and unless we have a freeze, my juice is worthless. Maybe by then the world will realize how cool George W is and our dollar will go up. I'll bet the weight is less than the limit for the size. It's all about size...

Nice wheels, Alan. Do I dare? Did you get my e-mail about my FedEx bill? $800 huh? Plus another four fifty, you think? Hmmm.... Tempting. Watanabe Libre Watanabe Libre

Smokey, That's a Black Pearl and you can get some info about them from Zhome for starters. I thought there was supposed to be a commemorative plaque on the console, but I could be wrong. The Black Pearl is a limited edition model of the 280Z and quite collectable. You could expect that car to increase in value as an original example - strictly original. From the looks of it, you would have very little to do to return it to original, but some things, making it a fun and easy project / collector car to own. It looks to be in very good shape. I would just have the rocker fixed and blend the paint. I don't have the slightest idea how hard it would be to find a stripe kit for it, but I wouldn't if I didn't have to. At 50,000 miles, that car has reached it's tolerance of miles for a collector car. Any more miles - substantial miles - would lessen the value of it. If you drove it on outings and to events only, maybe no more than 500 miles a year, it would be a fun car to have. But if you plan on driving it frequently, forget the collector car routine. You will wear it out and loose the value. I liked the reference to the Zzap add, thanks. That's another collector car at the same point in it's collector car career. Time to retire to the garage. This is a good time to start finding cars like this. They still have relatively low miles and exist in original condition or can be returned to original economically. The paint is original, the stripes are original, the interior is original, even the cad plating still gleams. They will be the ones most sought after in the future. I don't know what to tell you on the price. You need to do some homework and find out what they have been selling for. Incidently, that ebay $33,000 Factory Restoration car with 50,000 miles was reduced to $25,000 and sold without meeting the reserve. That will give you an idea of what is happening in the collector car world. If that car does trade, it will be above $25,000. If I had $10k for a garage toy, I would call him up and make arrangements to see the car.

Koito's here! Chloe sold me spare lamps a while back. Check with her. I think you will find used Koito's around.

This stamping is quite common. It is an inspection stamp and is called "ken" as Alan wrote.

Yes. Wu Tang chic. Ricer, but slippery.

Interesting, Alan. I don't have a matching pair. My clutch pedal has no stamp at all. Now instead of numbers on my brake pedal, I have letters. I didn't stand on my head - the pedal cluster is out of the car. I think you have found a different pedal for RHD cars? My brake pedal arm is straight bar stock and my clutch pedal arm is thinner stock and bent to a cup shape. Play on! I don't have a match. yet.

UJ 02 and no date stamp at all

I didn't know that, Alan. So much for Nissan history, eh? I really can't say enough about the Nissan program, factory in Japan or not. The cars I have seen were very well restored to a very high standard. Some techniques I don't agree with, but the result is equal, I believe. To address the question of milage, I think the odometers were all set to zero as the instrument was probably replaced during the rebuild. Why would anyone drive one? Because $25,000 is pretty cheap for a brand new sports car in today's economy, and the Z is fun to drive.

http://members.aol.com/zclock4u/wp.html

You make a very good point, Alan. The Nissan Factory Rebuild program is no more a factory involvement than the Brock Racing Enterprises or Bob Sharp Racing programs. Kas Kastner directed the Nissan IMSA GTP program. Here we deal with an American coloquialism with misleading connotation. I didn't realize how the Nissan Factory Rebuild program operated before I talked with Les Canaday. I am left to wonder at this point if any of the Factory Rebuilds reached outside America, or if this was an exclusive event. None the less, Nissan did commision the reconstruction of 42 cars Nissan purchased, and sold back to the public through Nissan outlets. My racing heritage would refer to this as "Full Factory Backed". (This is term is also used for bimbos living with a sugar daddy). I understand that no other automotive manufacturer has ever completed such a program, making this program a very unique moment in automotive history, adding to the value and flavor of the 240Z. I talked with Les Canaday at length about how the cars were actually restored. At the time, I was very interested in the restoration plan and technique, as I was formulating my own strategy. I have a copy of the restoration checklist published by Nissan - would love an original BTW - and note with interest how complete the rebuilds were. I found several nice references, including the specification for wiring harness wrapping, but I am also aware that many components, such as interior vinyl, were commissioned to replicate the original when original stock was depleted. I also want to note that the checklist includes many pages from Wick Humble's book with many references to that publication. I am aware that the reconstructions were not as strick to authenticity of original build and series as we discuss on this site often. I do see "authentic rebuild" interpretations from several of the big Datsun restoration shops around this country which forces me to object to the statement: "Restored by any old body shop". I do see quite a few restorations equal in quality to the Factory Nissan program. I hope mine will be one of them. Just checking ebay now, the seller has reduced the asking price to $25,000. Probably within reason. I agree with the idea that one of these cars is for show purposes. They do command a high value, however, with 51,000 miles, the car we are discussing is to me a used car with old papers - suitable for restoration - again!

Who appraised your car, zrush? Does it still have 8 miles on it?

I wasn't real sure of RPM limits or time limits, so I was conservative with my numbers. Also, my old race engines didn't have fans and I didn't want to talk about an amount of run time without a fan! I always prefered to watch the temperature gauge. The variations in engine speed over the run-in period will be fine as long as it is not over-revved during this process. I always found that strong, long lasting engines resulted from a nice break-in / run-in. Have fun!

You hit the nail on the head with your description of desperation. I looked for months before I finally sucked it up and spent some big bucks for something I was looking for. Essentially, I satisfied myself that what I was about to pay was a fair price for a fair part. There is always the story of finding it cheaper or better, but I would have to say that desperation is the driving force behind the high ebay auctions we see. I'm guilty of making some desperate ebay moves but have learned to discipline myself to bottom fish on ebay and let the expensive stuff slide. I would also say that a lot of parts on ebay are listed at or slightly above what anyone would pay at a parts house or dealership or mail order web site. Once the bidding starts, the price immediately moves to the expensive range. I would encourage everyone to shop around - don't cheap around - just look and ask before jumping to a price. Arm yourself with a MSA catalog, a VB catalog and check the Nissan database for Nissan parts you have a number for. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCH&Store_Code=CP http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/ The database will give you a price reference. Email Chloe or any of the other sponsor / parts dealers we discuss commonly. SATISFY YOURSELF THAT THE PART REALLY IS DIFFICULT!!!! There are many parts which have become difficult to find, but the fact remains that they CAN be found and they ARE available. In comparison, it makes 240Z restoration pretty inexpensive.

Set it rich and let it run at a constant RPM below 3000 until it reaches temperature. Use colder plugs than the ones you plan to race with. Avoid revving it or RPMs over 4000. Just let it run constant from cold to operation temperature several times (3 or 4). Continue to watch oil pressure and check for leaks. Make adjustments and tweak. Change the oil after your run-in.

Oh you guys. That's a 280. Weather or not it's a Black Pearl is the question. It should have an identification special edition plate on the console and some other peculiar special edition identification. It MAY be a Black Pearl and it MAY be a 280Z painted black. BIG DIFFERENCE. Black Pearls also had red and silver pinstiping. Make sure you know what you are buying!

Here's another one on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2448187948 Also, from everything I can determine, the correct oil cap for this valve cover is the plain OIL cap also known in Australia as the 710 cap.

Chloe has them on her MidwestZ site for a little less than $350 each - brand new.

And the other side of the yard

Here is the Suncaost Z Car Club Christmas Party.

This particular valve cover appears on the series one HLS30 240Z up to around mid 1970 production. They are not very common. In my opinion, $75 is pricey and I would call around to the people who advertise used parts - junk yards - to find one. I found one six months ago for $25. It's all a matter of how badly you want it now. I have seen them go for $100 or more, but I think that is ridiculous.

So what did you think of Yate's book, Carl? I liked how he had others tell about their experiences. Didn't you get the feeling that you had to be there to really appreciate what was going on?