26th-Z

The hose is the upper crankcase breather hose and normally connects to the back of the air filter housing. You should filter that connection so as not to introduce contaminants into the engine and, of course, keep it open to allow the engine to breathe.

Lubricate the column.

Hey Rick, Glad to see you back from vacation. I sent you money today BTW. I have built a few race cars in my day and concur with most of Rick's thoughts. I tend to be a cleanliness freak and fully believe that a clean car is inherently faster than a dirty car. In any high performance situation, the chassis is the basis of the car and is just as important or more important than any other component. By the time you get through aligning and strengthening the chassis, you might as well strip it clean. One does need to have a good mind for it though, because all race cars crash. That's just part of the game. Once again, a well prepared chassis is safer. I, too, have seen bondo cars. I once saw a guy get hurt flipping a bondo MGB. Pulled the roll bar out of the body. It all boils down to where you want to run in the pack. Front runners have well built chassis'.

There are small spaces in the bottom of the baffle to equalize the level between sides and allow flow. In all probabilty, your resto was done correctly and everything is fine. There was another thread about this recently.

This is a great site to talk about Z's. No wonder the membership keeps growing.

Yea - that's why I bought the chrome bumpers.

During the life of my Z, the original bumpers took their dings and eventually rusted. I filled and painted them a metallic charcoal to match the grill and tail light valance. They were simple bumper bars with no guards or rubber. They looked real good like the chrome ones I have now. Perhaps you would like the same treatment.

This one took me a while!

Notice the guy in the next car!

More of the fancy graphics like the Mini:

I bought a bra for my loveliness. Mine just says Z on the front. I think the car looks good in a bra. Silly as it sounds, 2ManyZ's is completely right about the fit and what it will do to the finish. As nice as your's looks, landmizzle, wear it for show and out on dates. Makes the headlights look bigger.

Thought you all would enjoy the new fall fashion in car bras. Get one for your Z!

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/car_care/1998/10/Gas_Tank_Restoration/index.phtml The POR suggestion is for you do-it-yourselfer's. Motorcycle shops deal with this issue all the time and a good ole radiator repair shop may help you also.

Aside from the discussion of whether or not you should disconnect the heater, the quick repair to a leaking heater is to loop the hose back in the engine bay. You don't want the hoses, so you are left to your imagination to decide how to block it all off. The head plug needs no more than 1/4" - maybe 3/8". A brass plug can be turned if you like, or you can buy one. Cover it with teflon tape and screw it. The Y hose fitting can be threaded and capped or you could cut the pipe off and weld a plate over the hole. I don't recommend taking the plumbing out around the intake manifold. That area is perfect for fitting stainless braided hose and fittings, but it involves a lot of welding and fabrication. With the heater simply disconnected, the system volume will be lower and you may experience higher running temperatures. The comment about eliminating the windshiel demister is valid and will force you keep the inside of your glass very clean.

POR makes a gas tank sealant and I think they sell a cleaning kit also. You may want to consider sealing a tank that got nasty.

I have 11/69 HLS30-00026 and have the sun star mirror. The red dot came with cars equipped with elephant oil caps! Seriously, you're fine. This is one of the technical peculiarities of our early series one cars.

I know exactly what you mean, Gavin. I'm stuck in a similar situation with my early VIN car. I don't dare make modifications I cannot easily reverse. Too bad, they all look like fun parts and I would not think anything of making a replicate or look-alike car. I have considered making modifications with only bolt-on parts so as to have several versions of my car. Changing bumpers from simple "Euro" bars to complete bumpers with upright guards and perhaps the Amco chrome bumper guards would make quite a difference in appearance. Change the headlight buckets to those fitted with covers - wheels- and instant sportive look. Alan, please post the scans of the "Sports Options" catalog for us and share some more of your roll bar experiences.

Thanks - that's just what I wanted to know. The dual point left me on the side of the road once, but probably because it is worn out. It gave me flawless service for years and made tune-ups just that much more fun!:sick:

I am curious what the difference is between the distributor used for Euro, AU , home markets and the US import - smog distributor. I have experience with Mallory aftermarket distributors and enjoy the dual point version, now. What makes this part a Euro version?

The photos I have, and believe them to be Nissan press photos, show the Z432 and the Z432R without flares. It's possible the 432 was sold basic, and then as Alan points out, supported by the "Sport Options" listing.

Datsun boasted an engineered interior vent system when they were marketing in the early years. At the time, interior venting, or flow-thru air ventilation with the windows up was not a common feature in either foriegn or American cars. Remember the little hoods sold for VW windows so you could roll the window down just a scoach and keep the rain out? Internal venting was a big feature from Datsun and it does work pretty well. The first Zeds came with vents in the rear hatch. The interior panel is sealed with rubber flaps and the hatch has plastic ducting to the horizontal vents out the back. The trouble with all this and any internal venting system is that it relies on a sealed cabin. The venting design assumes positive cabin pressure, and in the case of the rear hatch vents, a negative or sucking air pressure behind the car. Break the cabin seal, lose the positive air pressure, and the whole thing breaks down. Datsun also figured out that the hatch sealing design didn't work very well and found better results by relocating the outlets to the side wings out of the exhaust back draft. Yes, the exhaust gasses actually swirl behind the car. Smelling exhaust gasses in early Zeds is inherent and can only be stopped by a thorough seal to the hatch and venting system. The one thing that I should also mention is that an inspection of your exhaust system is in order whenever you smell gasses. Just make sure you don't have an exhaust leak.

I cruise the forums and the latest uploads at least once a day. They are a delightful moment of relaxZZation. But my favorite thing about this site is the members. I have to say you are a great group of enthusiasts to correspond with.

Depending on the condition of the car and completeness, an original, with that low mileage, could be worth in the $10,000 range. Perhaps more. Thoroughly check for rust, post a bunch of pictures, and let us have a look. That early of a build date probably came with steel wheels and hubcaps. The spun aluminum mags like mine were considered a standard dealer add-on in those early days. I have seen them on Ebay recently for around $100 a set. There is an aluminum wheel listed in the parts fiche 40300-N3225 that is commonly known as the star wheel, 5-1/2"x14" for that period car. As far as I know, wire wheel inserts were not Datsun.

My bet is on the caliper too. I'm dy'in to find out what happens.