26th-Z

Jeff, Would you be interested in these?

That looks like turns 3 and 4 at Road Atlanta. Don Kearney in the lead. Are you guys interested in Japanese Grand Prix racing from the late 60's? This is the starting grid of the 1966 Japan GP. Four Nissan / Prince R380s, a Toyota 2000 GT and a Fairlady.

Hey! I found some more pictures. Here are the front suspension compression rods I was talking about. I also have yellow paint on the transmission brace bolts and differential mounts. The yellow paint was applied to indicate correct installation and torque. You made me giggle with your overspray, comment, Dan. Who the hell is ever going to know?!!?!! Here is my best oil pan overspray picture...both styles!

And these came from a 4/70 car displayed at ZCON 2005; all original, 29,000 miles. The photographs I have of my car are just that - photographs. But I have signs of yellow in these locations. I also have red paint on the nut / washer holding the front suspension compression rod to the chassis. I never made a map however I'll bet Mike McGinnis knows.

Here are some pictures I have, Dan. These two are from a car Mike McGinnis did several years ago - a gold medallion car.

This site has all the races video on demand http://www.scca.com/pages/2015-scca-runoffs-ondemand

Same guy

Congrats Greg! You had a whole cheering section in the bleachers at the horse-shoe.

I will come looking for you, Greg. Hope the weather is nice.

This is the exhaust heat riser Dan is talking about

Take your polarizing sunglasses off.

I was just going to say that you could qualify for the Street Modified class. Jim's advice about CLEAN is the key to winning. It's been five or six years since I judged and I authored the rules a couple of versions ago. The point deduct method of judging allows for normal wear in the Daily Driver class but is more strict in the other classes. On the other hand, I once saw a guy with a really nice stock 240Z enter in the Daily Driver class and blow the competition away because his car was so clean and so nearly stock. Rather than take the points hit in the Stock class, he entered in the more tolerant class and didn't get the points deduct.

These are two of the clearest pictures I have. Although this is not the earliest of cars, the brightwork is very nice and clear in color. One thing we noticed was the clamp for the coil. It is silver zinc on my cars.

The Road & Track road test in April 1970 reports a top speed of 122 mph for the HLS30. Interestingly, the Road & Track introductory article on the Datsun 240Z shows the 5-speed as optional with a 3.70:1 final drive ratio. Indeed the 5-speed transmission was optional for the 2 liter roadster at the time. Another issue I would like to take with the Petrolicious article is "S20 straight six in place of the normal car’s L24". The normal (Japanese home market with which the 432 is compared) car had a 2 liter straight six, not a 2.4 liter. In addition, reason number 3 is pure speculation. It would be possible to research that fact, but the writer didn't.

It always helps to SEARCH the archives: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/25508-question-regarding-distributor-cap/?hl=%2Boriginal+%2Bgreen+%2Bdistributor#entry221376

Do ALL the pistons look like that? The small, evenly spread out pits are from detonation which is not good. The big chunks and divots are from something broken (like a piston ring). Either way, those pistons are junk and you are just asking for trouble by using them. The bore clearances couldn't possibly be within tolerance and with the damage you are showing on just the one piston, I would expect the piston to break at some point in the future.

Where's the car? The original owner bought it here in Sarasota.

Although the pulley Kennymonster is using doesn't look like this one, Nissan competition part # 12303-E4100 with the correct front bolt and washer.

Unfinished, no color, unpainted iron grey. Your car had the externally regulated alternator known as the grapefruit because of the housing design. Do a search "Grapefruit Alternator". You'll find http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?hl=%2Bgrapefruit+%2Balternator#entry270202 which discusses the engine finishes question you have been asking.

I'm familiar with rock tumbling / polishing as my sister does a lot of that. So I used Eastwood's green media in a tumbler rather than their vibrator. Same sort of mix proportions. All my stuff came out looking great. Cleaned up the threads with a tap and die set; sent the stuff out to be plated.

The curly haired guy looks like Boris Said.

$96,200 +

The bolt with the flange head is a later style. The bolt with no markings and separate washer is 'correct' for your car, Careless. I like your idea of restoring the original hardware instead of replacing it.

Send your dash out to be recovered. There must be a million threads about the topic in the archives.

Pictures of engine color overspray on oil pans. One is my early oil pan and the other is a later pan design with overspray. My engine mounts came with overspray also.