26th-Z

Thanks for the pictures, Kats. These are great! I love the body shell pictures. Bare metal!?!!

I have these photos on file but I don't know the screw sizes. Hope this helps.

Great video! Did he win the race? Here is a picture of Ron Carter's car.

Great write-up. Thanks!

Yes, stainless. Wick also advises that the trim strips cannot be removed. Stainless can certainly be polished and 0000 steel wool is a very good method.

Although we thought for a long time that these bolt locations were part of the production process, these pictures show us that the cars were carried through the assembly process on cradles which supported the car from below. Alan T provided this picture of the mounting for the competition roll bar that Nissan homologated. I don't think the roll bar attached to the roof cross-member but the captured nuts on the sides are definitely roll bar. Greetings Kats, 26th and 27th are fine. Have not worked on them in a while. Only the storage barn for 27th. It needed a new roof. Chris

Looks good Kats! I can not WAIT for your magazine cover. Your car will be a cover-girl!

Yea, you have the beginning of a vary serious problem. Clean away most of the undercoating and clean out the seams to see what you are really looking at. I wouldn't say you need new floors and rails yet, but a good cleaning and patching is in order.

There was a conversation on Facebook about this car. Evidently two cars were purchased in New York for $2000. The other one has a crushed-in roof. Guys whom have seen it report that it is very rusty however it has the original engine - 2400 valve cover, E-31 head, etc. And it has chrome Z quarter emblems.

Have to agree also. I think this particular car is priced too high and a private sale is going to be in the $40k to $50k range.

Ah, yes. The car that wasn't for sale.

There are some really nice discussions about splash pans in the archives. I just searched "splash pans" but for the life of me I can't get the copy / paste to work. WTF?!!?! Search "splash pans". Down at the bottom of the page, there is a thread; "Splash Pan" that is four pages long. That's a really informative thread.

No, Jim. I looked at that number plate very close and I'm convinced of the serial #s. I am not, however, liking the dash plate. I'll bet what happened was that the dash was replaced and the original plate got lost.

That is most probably a January 1970 car...IF it really is 00863. In any case, it's really, really rough with enough incorrect parts to make it not worth the relatively low VIN this guy is basing his value on. Is that a sun roof? Very, very poor pictures.

Welcome aboard! What's your VIN / build date?

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/old-wanted-ads/7215-dash-restoration.html Search for "dash restoration" and go way back to conversations seven or eight years ago. That should answer all your questions - and hopefully encourage you!

Amar, I have Charlie's floor pans and one rail in 26th. I had to locate the tension rod pocket and align the sway-bar mounts when fitting the frame rail. I was fully expecting the effort to cut and fit everything. That's metal work. I see you have some other patchwork to do. So did I. That's metal work! Take your time and do it right - it's well worth it. I can't over emphasize spending the time to make sure the chassis mounting points align.

Jeremy, Without pictures, it's impossible to determine what you have. It's possible that you have a Nissan / Datsun competition roll bar but I have only seen pictures of it. The roll bar is quite distinctive in that it bolts to specific areas of the chassis and has two rear braces. A Datsun competition department parts bulletin I have lists one from Bob Sharp Racing - part number 88888-BSR00 "Full width 1-1/2" seamless tubing w/ back braces. Complete w/ bolts, plates and template for cutting floor $79". Another listing comes from the Nissan (Japan) Sports Option parts catalog. 96100-E7275; Kit-Safety Bar. I don't see a roll bar listed in my BRE / Interpart catalog. I would guess that in all probability you have a welded prefabricated roll bar / roll hoop assembly marketed here in America by any one of a number of performance market retailers.

Yep, I agree. The 4-1/2" wheel is 40300-E4100. My US parts book shows just the 5" and 5-1/2" and my Japanese parts book lists the 4-1/2" wheel for the L20 series cars. It shows the 5" wheel for the L24 series and the 5-1/2" wheel for the PZ series. In terms of fit for the wheel cover, I have never heard of a successful fit for anything other than the stock steel wheel.

Osteopath, Try the search function on the site and you may find more information. An original steel wheel for your car is part number 40300-E4400 which is a 5-J x 14 size. 40300-E4600 is a 5-1/2 J x 14 optional wheel originally offered. They look like the pictures I have attached - black exterior / silver interior. Originally, the tire offered was a 175 SR-14 tubeless radial or a 175 HR-14. I'm currently not aware that this size is manufactured anymore, however 185 and 195 sizes are available and they fit fine. Wheels were encoded with a date of manufacture. If you are particularly nit-picky, you would want a wheel set date stamped prior to your month and year of manufacture, but once the hubcap is on, no one will be able to discern. I seriously doubt that Nissan has these wheels available so your search is probably going to include eBay and junk yards. Look out for rust. I had my sets refurbished several years ago for about $75 / wheel.

Hmmm... the car is in Sarasota. I may give the guy a call. The photos look fantastic. Compare this to a Ford GT40 replica. A Shelby Daytona replica. A Ferrari P4 replica. 100k isn't that far off.

Machine screw, black oxide coating, phillips head, countersunk, flat top - part number 08320-51242

Yea...I remember that car...January...yea. It appears as though the current seller cleaned the car up real well and is trying to flip it. I'm still curious. Does it run?

I was just gonna say; "be careful with what you are dissolving". Trying to dissolve the glue could also dissolve the paint, or the vinyl, or anything plastic. If you got the glue to the point of rolling up in little balls, you got it good. Yes, when you wipe the stuff off it's gonna clog up your rag! You'll need lots of rags.