26th-Z

AMCO Parcel Bar. Best of luck finding one. They're around. eBay

I agree with Hardway that television has contributed to an inappropriately inflated market, but that's the nature of television, isn't it? Still, at $11,600, I think the subject car is underpriced.

Got this web link from Vintage Motorsport magazine. Vintage racing film in the making. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1657954692/help-save-vintage-racing-today?ref=live Check it out.

If you do some archival research on this site you may find that you picked up a fairly rare item at a very nice price. Congrats! The cigarette case Fairlady 240Z came in three different finishes and were mostly Japanese dealer gifts.

Yes, HLS30-51391 would have been built around October / November 1971 and could very well be a transition car.

The VIN is S30-04679 which denotes a Japanese market, right-hand drive, L-20 engined Fairlady built around mid January to early February 1971. I attached a scan of 1971 model variants for the Japanese market (probably credt AlanT for the info). If the car has an original 5-speed, it is probably a Fairlady ZL model.

Black Gold Man is incorrect. Arne and Marty Rogan are correct. The upper portion of the exterior face of the radiator support is hand (brush) painted black.

Thanks for the pictures! Leather aftermarket cover, I'm afraid. Well, there's your answer, Alan.

See this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?44935-1971-Fairlady-Z-one-owner-on-CL&p=387240#post387240

If anyone goes to look at this car, please photograph the steering wheel and post the pictures,please. It looks like it may be the rare 48400-E4100 leather covered wheel. Very rare - very valuable. Would love to see more detailed pics to verify. Thanks!

A BJ good price!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?35813-S30-Construction-Theories&highlight=engraved+VIN

Couple of observations: HLS30-00048 has been fully restored. A rivet size issue would not be surprising to me. I think we pretty much discussed to death the idea that firewall serial numbers were engraved and not "stamped". That's why they don't have a uniform look.

I had an e-mail conversation about this car with a fellow about a week ago. "I went and saw it today, and it is in extremely rough shape to say the least; rust literally everywhere, including floor pans you can press your fingers through and a completely demolished battery tray with a hole below that you could put your head through. They say that if you can see rust, figure that the rust you can't see is 10 times worse. If that's the case, I'm not sure what's holding the car in one piece at this point. Rust bubbles were noticeably coming through the paint on absolutely every body panel, and every non-painted metal surface had moderate to heavy, flakey orange rust covering it either completely or partially. Literally every piece and part on the car (interior, exterior, undercarriage, engine, engine bay) would need to be refurbished or replaced. Many parts were obviously missing from the car, and although the owner said he had "almost all" of them somewhere in his garage or above his garage, it was one of those places where there was so much junk lying around from obviously many, many different cars and other projects, I would be very skeptical about his ability to actually locate those parts in any reasonable timeframe. I do know that he has the original engine and transmission because of the attached pictures, but we didn't actually get to see those today because it was literally buried in a corner behind mounds of clutter. According to the owner, the original engine had spun a bearing but was repairable. The owner of 00022 had it on Ebay a year ago (that's where I first saw it) and the bidding ended with two bidders tied at $10K, but the car failed to sell because it didn't meet his reserve! In talking to him afterwards, he said his reserve was set at $20,000 based on an "offer" he'd had some years back. He claims to have interest in the car from as far away as Japan and Denmark."

Hi Kats, You should have protection from PayPal. Best of luck!

I'm tell'n ya. With the advent of the fancy electronics, speeling and punctation have gone all to hell.

www.modulinegarage.com and www.redlinegaragegear.com and www.garagecabinetsonline.com

Yes. Looks like the info plaque is up on the hood in the picture.

Thanks for the updates.

I think an old Z is an excellent car for a beginner. It is hardly 'fast' by today's standards, easy to work on, and still (forty years) sporty enough to satisfy the male ego. He'll learn how to use a clutch and shift which is becomming a dying art. He'll learn how to work on cars - it doesn't get much more basic than a Z. He'll also learn how easily the Z bodywork folds up giving him the proper lesson to not hit anything! If you're a really smart parent, you'll send the good natured lad off to driving school where he will learn how to drive properly, thus avoiding the safety of the car concern.

For what it's worth, I cleaned the paint off my old clips and while I was at it I performed the pinch-o-meter scale resistance test on each of the various clips I have to determine the level of pinch resistance each clip might have when it clamps the fender. For those of you not completely versed in the pinch-o-meter method of resistance testing, this is performed by engaging the test clip between thumb and forefinger whilst drinking a beer. Average ambient temperature of the clips should be 72 degrees F. Average resistance is determined over five squeezes. Comparative squeezing determines the bell curve in consideration of relativity. My old original clips were the stiffest measuring a 7.5 average. The reproduction solid clip was almost as stiff measuring 7.3. Surprisingly, the NOS clips I have were noticably softer averaging a 5.1 and the reproduction hollow clips were not much softer than that, averaging a 5.0.

I disagree and we have had this conversation ad-nauseum. Look this up in the archives. Having said that. Recognize that undercoating by the dealer was common in the 70's. Dealer applied undercoating when removed with mineral spirits will reveal the original paint. Nissan factory in Japan undercoating was very subtle and painted over when the car was produced. It looks more like a stone guard texture and is not uniform throughout the underside of the chassis.

We're talking about two different meanings to the word 'tow'. The owner's manual doesn't mean to flat-tow over any distance. It's pretty much assumed that no one would do anything like (that's why it's against the law) that and the tow hook is mounted on the frame for attachment. In other words, the bumper is not intended. Rope is pretty much what was used in 1970. And everyone who has ever flat-towed deserves a spanking!

The clips arrived in the afternoon mail yesterday and I dug out my stash of clips to compare. I have two sets of originals: one set from the car (with green overspray) and another new set I bought many years ago. I have been intrigued with the idea of making reproductions and I'm very happy to see people take on these sort of projects. The guy selling them on eBay sent me the set I ordered and another single clip made differently. The ones I bought are "hollow" and far more flexible than the solid version. The seller said he was concerned with how flexible the solid ones would be in cold weather. I don't know what material was used or how they were made, but the repros are a material more opaque than the originals. The clip and mounting riser dimensions are the same as original however the 'wings' are shorter. Otherwise, they look real close to original, fit just fine, and clip in place with only slightly less force than original. I give them two thumbs up and recommend them.

I'm shocked with the answers I'm seeing! You guys go right ahead and pull your cars from the bumpers. Just makes my (straight) car more valuable. Jack them up on the floor pans too! Ahhh...owner's manual has the answer - page 29.