26th-Z

Going back over this thread... Ron, I bought the air cleaner in the middle. Can't confirm what it is from. Here are two different filter element alignmet methods. The picture with the spring clips on the outside is from Her Majesty the 26th.

Jimbo, I am completely correct on what I know. Read what I wrote. Reading comprehension is elementary for greenhorn status. So is spelling. Further, you forgot to mention the various designs for holding the filter element in place and their application. As well as the various shapes of the air horns. Don't spar with me, boy. You'll get bruised. I would love to see pictures of the winter / summer setting feature. I'm looking for a picture of the manifold Mike describes. I have one with the shield.

No, I don't think the search tool recognizes 'quoting'. It takes a while to find exactly what you're looking for and it can be a little aggrivating. But kats had a big dicussion about three (I think) different steel pressings for the inside of the hood. The hood is made up of several layers of stamped metal shapes folded over each other and spot welded together. Obviously, the later style with the gussets is stronger. I should weigh them and see what the difference is. The next big difference is in the rail for the hood latch. The later style has holes stamped in the metal and the pressing around the latch mount is smaller. Between my two really early hoods,it is difficult to see, the way the metal is folded is different between the yellow hood and the green hood. The green hood has a tab that folds over to form the side rail of the hood. The yellow one just has a solid fold all along each side of the hood.

The biggest give-away difference between early, early and just plain early is this gusset.

zalex, the direct answer to your title question is; "Yes". And all the advice you read here is good advice. Radiator stop-leak is for radiators, not head gaskets. It won't work. I can't believe that you can't find a mechanic in the Orlando area to fix your car and a machine shop to deal with the rest of the head issues as they may exist. There are PLENTY of Z guys in the Orlando area.

I wouldn't guess that Ron needs to worry about the value of his car.

Her Majesty the 26th, HLS30U-00026 / L24-2338; 907 green with tan interior, build date 11/69 and Princess Ziesta, HLS30U-00027 / L24-2162; 907 green with tan interior, build date 10/69

What a difference! Very nice

Greg, As Alan pointed out, this has been discussed in the past. Blue air filters should be commonly accepted as a standard color although fairly rare here in the states. With decals fitted to yours, there should be every reason to believe that it came stock that way. I would photograph it before any restoration and keep it blue as an interesting conversation point about your car. Somewhere in my mound of photographs I have a pre-production photograph of the HLS30 fitted with a blue air filter. Chris

This topic is the very reason I had 26th dipped. She was rusting from the inside out and total submersion was the only way to derust her. And I'll take Diseazd's comments a step further and say that the seam sealer used by the factory when these chassis were constructed did not particularly last long. It dried and cracked. Indeed the area of the dog leg inside the wheel arch is a water-catcher and not sealed very well at all. Heres a shot of the chunk I took out. I used a garden type pump spayer with one of those long plastic wands to spray primer / sealer up inside the chassis as best I could reach. Then after that mess dried, I srubbed the outside down and sealed up all the seams by hand. Will, in one of your pictures, there is a black strip over the inner fender well where it would touch the outer skin. Is that tar mat insulation?

Thanks, Yes, the service bulletin date is August and I was the one who asked if there were three different head bolt lengths. (Edit) Oh, and yes I have seen the blue and white tape on the steering rack - presume it is "factory".

Ok, something doesn't make sense. Maybe I got it wrong - it wouldn't be the first time. Rich, you said your engine serial number was 005353? That can't be. Your engine serial number should be L24-xxxx and 5353 would be way too high for the reinforced oil pan. I believe that starting with engine # L24-3607, the eight counterweight crankshaft was used replacing the six counterweight crankshaft in August, 1970. That's when the oil pan should have changed. Didn't you mention that you had three lengths of cylinder head bolts? That changed in April 1970 with engine number L24-04257. And now that I'm reading the service bulletins, I see that one bulletin lists the engine number with five digits and the other lists four. WTF? Her Majesty the 26th is fitted with engine number L24-2338 and Princess Ziesta the 27th is fitted with engine number L24- 2162.

Thanks for the info, Alan.

Alan, Take a stab at it. History is something you will never get your arms around and no one expects you to. Documenting the one car would be a project by itself however well worth the effort. But just looking at the floor picture has me thinking of questions already! I see what you mean. Chris

Yes, that's a stock looking non-emissions engine for an early Canada car. "Euro style" is an improper term. That's a standard balance tube for a non-emission engine. The carb linkage is different, the exhaust manifold, air filter and the front pulley are different. I would imagine that in parts, there is $1,200 worth in that one picture alone! Yes, scoop that car up and post more pictures.

Thanks for the pictures from 4150 Kats. That is over the top! They will go in my picture collection of the car. I also have a huge collection of pictures from Zama. It is very nice to hear how well the cars are maintained. To fit that big gas tank up into the body, the spare tire well was removed and the opening was covered with a flat plate. Spare tires were carried in the rear deck. If memory serves me right, all the PS30-SBs came this way? I wonder what the gas tank sending unit came from? Edit: Oh yea, you said Z432-R has this gas tank.

Perhaps a little off topic, but as an option, fog lamps for the S30 could be purchased from Datsun. The conversation is buried in the archives along with conversations about the switches, wiring. Personally, I think the best way to break a fog lamp is mount it to the underside of the bumper. I prefer the sealed bulb directional lens Cibie to any other replacement headlight. Great light. Well worth the $$$.

Heyyyy!!!!

Yes I did know that. A hood will fit in the back of an E46 also.

Carl, I don't know if the Barnes & Noble store in your area carries it ( being tailored to the older generation ), but our Barnes & Noble has it. And call first! You don't want to run over anyone with a walker. Probably don't want to go out looking for a Barnes & Noble on Bingo night either!

Very nice! Tip-of-the-hat to Kevin for the accomplishment.

I have attempted to respond to several of the comments made in this thread without success. There is no need to jump on anyone for any personal attack or negative comment. Some remarks are very well made from people whom understand what led to this video clip. I don't know (even loosely) what the Datsun Heritage Museum business plan is or what the Board of Directors have in mind, but from a "museum" implying historical integrity, this clip never should have happened. Probably the most well put comment was: "then what chance is there to ever get this stuff discussed with any accuracy?" Alan, I don't agree with the idea that a brand is just a badge. It is far more. It is identity which is crucial to marketing success. If Nissan never should have branded the line of automobiles Datsun in the first place, then Nissan has an identity crisis. Perfect example - the rally cars. Labeled both Datsuns and Nissans, a viewer has no idea what the car is. Frankly from first glance, it would appear the award winning cars were Datsuns with Nissan engines. Or Nissan Motor Company, Ltd. sponsored / entered a Datsun. If there is any inference that Datsun = good and Nissan = bad, I would suggest that the fault is with Nissan.

I'm having a hard time seeing it, Randy. Is that the frame rail below the battery tray? If so, that's common but bad. You could go as far as replacing the frame rail. Charlie has them. Or you could patch the spot - depending on how extensive it is. Still, its part of the frame rail structure of the car and needs to be repaired.

Yes. Chevrolets are Chevrolets in America, not GMs. And as such, Datsuns are Datsuns, not Nissans. Biggest most well known marketing gaff in history is Nissan taking away the Datsun brand. Only "New Coke" comes close. At the time, the Datsun brand in North America rivaled the big three and symbolized "the Japanese invasion". Fred's museum has that underlying tone of protest for what became a huge cost for Nissan's market in North America. Even the famous rally cars are Datsuns Alan, come on! So the subject car is probably in the museum because there is a rotation of cars, everybody wants to show their car at the museum, and there is a California good-ol boys thing going on. Some club cars go on display, all the friends come down to the museum to see them, everybody wins. It doesn't sound like Fred had the slightest idea what that car was and he shouldn't be doing interviews like that. We'll have to poke some fun at him. I know the museum has some very nice pieces; Ron Carters' cars are there. Mr. K's car is there. It looks like the colection of memorabilia is growing. "This car actually came from Japan..."; lets hope he was poking fun at the guys who think that they were assembled and painted at the port!

What's your engine serial #, Rich? As you describe the oil pan, it sounds like you have an early one. Check your head stud lengths - you might have three different sizes. Those engines were painted after assembly and you will notice blue and black overspray on various parts. Blue overspray on the aluminum head and front timing cover. Blue overspray on a black oil pan and maybe some black overspray on the block from the oil pan and engine mounts. I put my engine back together with the overspray as it was originally painted. Some people prefer the clean look. The weld marks on your oil pan signify an early engine; unique to the early cars. A damper plate was welded on to the oil pans because of vibration. I would like to see pictures of the V!