26th-Z

Got an e-mail referencing an article in Machinist's Workshop magazine http://www.magazine-agent.com/machinists-workshop/magazine I tried to look it up, but the site wants to see my cookies and as you all know Her Majesty doesn't show her cookies to just anyone. Anyhow, we have had several discussions about removing rusted bolts and rusted hardware. I can't seem to find any appropriate thread to tack this on to. Here is supposedly what was said in the article: Machinist's Workshop Magazine recently tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts with significant results: They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Penetrating oil Average Torque to Remove Nut > None ............ ......... . 516 pounds > WD-40 ............ ........ 238 pounds > PB Blaster ............ .. 214 pounds > Liquid Wrench ........ 127 pounds > Kano Kroil ............ ... 106 pounds > ATF-Acetone mix...... .53 pounds The ATF -Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 Automatic Transmission Fluid and acetone. >Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. My first thought was about mixing ATF fluid with acetone and the spontaneous combustion thing they taught us in grade school. I don't know if the two fluids are compatible to be stored in a container. Perhaps just mix enough up to use. I was surprised that Liquid Wrench scored higher than my favorite PB Blaster, however Kroil is seriously good. Evidently, Mouse Milk wasn't mentioned.

Your question prompted me to call her chok'n-arse up as I haven't talked to her in long time either. She was in good spirits and seems to be getting along pretty well. The economy has her down as is typical these days. She says ZRush is sleeping in the garage and the Scarab is still apart and waiting for restoration funding. Evidently she still has a dial-up connection and doesn't play computers much as a result. She drives a 280Z which she calls the Double D. She says it means daily driver, but I tease her about the reference.

Yea, but Mark posted yesterday to revive this. I too, have a particular interest in the Scarab. Vicki ZRush has one.

Tomo, I didn't answer what you edited your post to ask. Don't do that. It confuses old farts like me.

That has to be an excerpt from a longer piece. Poor Fred - taken out of context - four hundred and thirty-two cubic inches? Fred!!! Raff Out Roud!

I think what you are referring to, Tomo, is the way the SCCA groups the various classes together in their event. Groups would be defined on the event entry form and / or event schedule.

I think the bucket picture showed these hose clamp types. The bent wire with the 3-hole retainer and a phillips head (rounded) machine screw. If you have this type, it's silver zinc plating, not the golden cad plating. Here are some pictures from a 1970 Z with 18,000 original miles. It was at the Syracuse convention.

Hmmm... you got me stumped.

Nice bucket! Your hose clamps were originally zinc silver, not cad gold. I see some other stuff that should be silver zinc too.

The engine has to be running if it won't idle properly ;-) You have a broken vacuum line, INK. One of those squiggly black hoses covering the top of your engine. Another issue here is that if one of the vacuum lines is dried out, leaking and/or broken, chances are that the rest are soon to follow. In other words, replace them all. I don't know much about 280Z fuel systems, sorry. A service or repair manual would tell you what is what.

I endorse both suggestions and believe Distinctive is where Les is getting the material for his seat kits. You might try Mike at Banzai, but it is probably going to come from the same source. And I agree that matching what you have is going to be difficult.

Zymol products tend to be pricey for no apparent reason but they are very good quality. You won't be disappointed. I tend to believe that this comes down to a get-what-you-pay-for decision.

Here is a link to the discussion. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4334&highlight=Armourall I still stand by what I said back then and object to the testimony from the I-Love-Armourall people. I just don't believe they know what they are talking about regardless of their experience. Silicon emulsion is bad for vinyl and rubber. It is a well documented fact. The interesting point of the question has to do with the "black rubber material" that came off with the application of Armourall. That should not have happened and I suspect the dash is already covered in some sort of coating as there is no rubber material on a stock dash to come off. Soap and water should be fine for cleaning.

Here's a few pictures of various manuals printed in the 70 - 71 range. In the beginning, service manuals were printed in different volumes, engine and chassis, in Japan and supplimental volumes printed in California. By 1971 all the volumes had been combined. Early original service manuals had a pebble textured paper cover and later versions, including the reprints, have a smooth glossy cover.

Carl, The Nissan Cube is hardly a "me too" vehicle. Perhaps arriving on American shores a little tardy, but it has been a Japanese domestic vehicle for several years. Comments from Denise McCluggage, AutoWeek 6-1-09 Then And Now; "Nissan brought a selection of its home-market cars to San Francisco a few years ago so American Journalists could experience them. I chatted with the Cube and could tell it wanted to stay. "Bring this one," I said. Maybe, they said. And now Nissan has. But not my cubic Cube. This Cube has read the wrong book on how to dress for success in America. We're not speaking."

Just got an update from Yoshikawa san. He posted new pictures on his web site. With so many questions regarding metal and body work, I thought you all would find this as fascinating as I do. Hello Chris, I made all aluminum door for S30. Original was 34.8lb but new door is 19.84lb! I put these photos on my website. I want speak to members of Classic Z cars.... Soon I will make hood for S30. Best Regards, Shin Yoshikawa

I want to bitch that all this BRE repro stuff is lowering the value of original historic items that were expensive and difficult to obtain.

The roof of 26th was covered in aluminum foil once to reflect the hot Florida sun.

Agreed. The Shin creation is just the body shell, tub, chassis, whatever and does not include any running gear, suspension, engine, glass or interior. The thing to do would be to transfer all of that from a titled car. Shin has indicated that a customer in Japan is using an S20 engine.

The current ZCCA rules note the ARA kit but describe the compressor as 'York'. I don't know why. I'll look for Sankyo. I don't know, Jon. Carl may be talking about Dependable. The DAS I'm talking about became WWL.

Perhaps a little background… DAS stood for Distribution & Auto Service. "Distribution & Auto Service, Inc. provides vehicle processing, logistics, & marine services to the automotive industry. The company was founded in 1969 & is based in Wilmington, California. DAS was formerly operated as a subsidiary of Nissan North America. On April 30, 2005 Distribution & Auto Service, Inc. became a part of Wallenius Wilhelmsen Logistics. Distribution & Auto Service, Inc. prepped the Datsuns prior to sending them off to the dealers. The older car carriers (before Nissan had its own fleet) always had an 'acceptable' amount of loss/damage when shipping the cars from Japan. DAS, in addition to just unloading the cars and reloading them on American distribution carriers (trucks, trains and other ships), also checked for contact damage (which also took place during the loading/unloading procedure as well) & salt water damage which took place while the vehicles spent weeks in the holds of these ships. The vehicles were washed & checked to make sure that there was no interior damage and that things like the wheel covers, jack & tools, antenna, spare tire, and optional parts were in the car meaning ready for dealer distribution. DAS was primarily a distribution logistics facility however they did have the capability to perform repairs and assembly functions. What the dealer did was PDI (pre-delivery inspection) which would include waxing, installing the wheel covers, antenna, etc. removing plastic from the interior, etc. My concern with your question, Gordon, is that the A/C is not described on your window sticker. It should be. What might be a likely explanation is that the A/C was dealer installed as an option after the sale. That's entirely possible.

Yea, but Mike! Don'cha love the drama? The poor guy's thread turned into all this reminiscence about selling the Z and moving on to the next chapter. Love it! Personally, I'm back from a previous car chapter. Now, I don't necessarily agree with some of the comments about the car in question. I think it's worth every penny of the insured value. I can think of a Z that won every top award given in the Z community and it is valued at three times the $24k figure. Sure, as with any car, to achieve the top value in sale, one must find the 'right' buyer. And the "share the same vision" comment was probably the most appropriate. I would suggest marketing the car in that direction to that sort of audience. Sorry to see you split, Stephen. If I had some spare money, I'ld buy your truck.

Welcome! You'll have fun here with the low VIN guys. What's your build date? Is your car all matching numbers?

It's good to hear that the battery tray is still available and relatively cheap. I need to put one of those on my list. Originally, the clear plastic drain hose did not extend down below the frame which is why you see so many cars with frame damage in that area.

To the best of my knowledge the wiper motor cover is black plastic molded form or a black plastic bag not rubber. Lacquer thinner is pretty aggresive. Be careful that it doesn't melt the plastic.