Hello Dave - everyone! Nice conversation! Great job on the oil pan. The place I am using is called Revivations and they are in Wauchula, Florida. (You should have seen the town after the hurricanes got through with it). They have a big metal building with two fiberglass tanks and a big rolling chain hoist down the center. The floor is drained for liquid recovery. Cars are brought in on fork lifts and set in the hoist baskets. The first tank is some sort of water soluble paint stripper solution and the car sits in the tank for around two weeks. Then it is pressure washed with hot water and inspected. If more crap needs to come off, it is dumped back in the stripper tank. Otherwise, the car is submerged in the electrolytic tank for several days. I think they rotate the car in the tank a couple of times. After it dries, they blow the car with high pressure air. There is about a six week time frame to seal the metal up before it starts rusting again. This process does not harm plastic or the lead fillers in the body shell. My avatar is Her Majesty the 26th sitting in the field net to the metal building. She should be back in March and I am spending $1,400 for the body shell. I may take the doors, fenders and such depending on what my bodyshop guy thinks when we get to that point. I had a wheel cleaned by them and I had them strip a set of hubcaps before I sent them off to be re-chromed. Electrolytic is the way to go as far as I am concerned. I'm lucky to have this place so close. Try cutting down a plastic 50 gallon drum to use for a tank and experiment with the size and placement of your anode (?) sheet of steel. Make sure the solution concentration is correct. Try rotating your pieces and leaving them submerged for different periods of time. The cleaner the piece is before the electrolytic process, the better the results. Even though the piece may not be in direct sight of the anode (?), the derusting process is still happening. Just at a slower rate. Direct sight is important, but the process is still working. The acid dipping process is what the hydrogen in the metal controversy is all about. Not the elecrolytic process. Long exposure to phosphoric acid is what makes the metal brittle. Even though the plating process is the same as this in reverse, different solutions are used. Eastwood sells kits for plating, including a kit to plate in the golden cadmium / zink for our Datsun hardware. I think the kit is too expensive. I'm sending my stuff out. I think this IS the ultimate solution (no pun intended) because it will get the rust completely out of the body shell. The trouble I have with 26 is inside the shell structure. She is rusting out from the inside. Now, I don't know where you all live, but in Sarasota, $1,000 is barely enough down payment for a small hot tub.