26th-Z

My compliments, Alan. I'm impressed. :classic:

Yep! Them's the ones. I hate em!!!!

Wow Mark! I don't have a picture of the C clips. But imagine...without the grill in place (it goes on last), hold the vent assembly in place and aligned with the rectangular holes in the hatch. The C clip "clips" the vent to the hatch on either end - right over the grill pin holes. But the C clip has grill pin holes also, so the grill pin holes line up and you just push the grill into place. Edit: Actually, I think the C clip arrangement is disasterous and I might suggest glueing the vent to the hatch with silicone seal.

Here's a better picture of the assemblies - disassembled. The top piece is the vent plate I was talking about with the "eroded" drip edge. See what happens after 34 years? The plate glues on to the duct box and holds the duct off the hatch so that air can flow into the duct from inside the car. See the other slit vent in the duct box? The picture Chloe sent me of the new pieces have foam between the duct box and the face plate, holding the duct box further off the hatch. The round holes in either end of the box and face plate is where the grill pins go. After fooling with all this (plastic - breakable), I can understand why Datsun went to the vents in the wings.

Ok right. The installation is perminent without breaking parts (hatch grills most probably) to take it apart so be careful. Take a look at texasz's picture. The vent duct "boxes" and the vent face plate glue together as one unit. The vent face plate has a rain guard drip edge that faces into the vent duct box. The drain tubes are not really part of this issue. They can be put on later. It's the vent duct box assembly that gets sealed and clipped to the underside of the hatch. Seal the vent duct assembly to the underside of the hatch and clip it into place with C clips that grab the hatch and the vent assembly. The C clips have holes in them to align with the holes in the hatch and the vent duct for the grill pins. The grill pins with the barrel clips snap into the holes. Once that is all put together, there is no way to get to the back side of the grill pins. They are inside the vent duct and it is glued and clipped to the hatch. Prying the grill off from the top usually results in breaking the plastic pins. Also, this is a great area for exhaust gasses to leak into the car. Sealing the vent to the hatch is essential. The vent face plates usually get real brittle and disintigrate from UV. I can see how the duct boxes could be sealed directly to the hatch with silicone sealant. You might try sealing the vents to hatch instead of using the C clips. They just make the installation REALLY hard to get apart without breaking something. Yea, I was amazed that they are still available.

Hello Caen Fred and I can't thank you enough for the link www.hlj.com I found EVERYTHING I was looking for, ordered stuff that was even listed as backordered, communicated easily and this morning they shipped it all from Japan. I'll let you know when the stuff arrives, but so far this has been the find of the century for S30 models. Check this place out. It is all in english and they have everything I have seen described NLA on eBay.

Not a bad idea at all. I would venture to guess the #3 driver is a little worse off than the #2 driver, but I would love to hear an explanation.

Yea. Isn't that great? Hey kats - the Z is white! Too cute.:classic: Oh! I forgot...I called this morning and HLS30-00016 has a chrome Z.

FISCO stands for Fuji International Speedway Company, I think and the badge is from an event - I'll bet motorcycle races - in May 1966. That's my best guess.

theswan, Your question comes up quite often and I encourage you to web search "rust removal", "acid dipping", "metal restoration", and "media blasting". You will find all kinds of information. I don't like the acid dipping approach because it is difficult to stabilize the acids and they will do as much damage over time as rust. Your observation about the effects of media blasting could lead to trouble as well, trapping material inside the chassis. I encourage you to look at "electrolytic dipping" as a safer alternative. You will have the seam seal and primer issues to contend with, the chassis will be cleaned to bare metal inside and out without damage to any metal plating that has been done originally, and any rust issue will be eliminated. All of the seam seal areas are accessible. I will use a long wand to spray primer inside the frame as best I can.

I'll have to get some pictures for you kats. The metal latches have smooth rounded edges, and the plastic latches are square cut without any taper or roundness(?) to the edges. #16 has a plastic one and my car used to have the plastic thumb latch, but after 30 years..... I was trying to clean it and broke it. The plastic latch looks as though it was a part for prototype before refined for production. I was talking to Chloe about the gas door locks and didn't realize how unique they are. I suspect they were keyed with the doors and deck lid - seperate from the ignition? Back to the subject - too bad the part number is not on the part! I think you have a good explanation of E4600, chrome Z, but I don't think the dates apply exactly to production. Only to part inventory. My explanation would be that E4601 was placed into service 2/70 and used after the E4600 part supply on the production line ran out. That would explain why later cars would have an earlier part. I don't know this, but if there were several production lines, parts on one line may have been different from parts on another line depending on how fast they were used up. One line may have started using E4601 as soon as it was available while another line may have used E4600 through 3/70. After discussing this with you, kats, and thinking "unique is a good thing", I am inclined to use the chrome Zs.

Yes TomoHawk, These guys look at cars so often, they have their own lingo to describe an overall condition or impression of any particular car. If we were collecting coins, for example, we would be using grading standards to describe the condition, such as MS, VS and further substandards like MS-60, MS-65. In our car world, I see "daily driver", 50/50 rule, and the descriptions you just refered to. And it is all subjective! I just read an article in AutoWeek about a $57,000 Plymouth 'Cuda (1971) that the writer thought should have been priced around $30,000 sighting such things as door dings and chips in the original paint. (Not to mention the engine had been changed - original for the car, but not THE original engine) He expressed; "Better than a driver, but not stunning". What's the difference between a #2 driver and a #3 driver? Opinion, most likely. Educated, experienced opinion. Mr. Jackson's expertise is from looking at thousands of cars and the show discusses the differences in an educational format - applying certain terms to describe the differences, likes and dislikes he sees in a car. The show is interesting because they show a bunch of cars and educational because they use a set description to convey their opinion. The one sentence I though most pertinent to the AutoWeek article was; "But the market speaks with it's wallet".

Gav, When I bought my Z in 1984, it had this Fujitsu AM/FM in it and I thought it was original. I didn't like the sound quality, so I put a Sony cassette deck in with an aftermarket face plate and I wired another speaker to the passenger side. The original face plate was broken and during my search to repair / replace the face plate, I discovered the radio wasn't original and the broken face plate had been modified further to take the Fujitsu radio. The car was originally equipped with an Hitachi AM (vert. toggle antenna switch) and the face plate has also the clear face for the radio tuner. Later models (1972) had the AM / FM with the horizontal antenna switch up top. Again, the clear tuner face is part of the outside face plate. Because of my low serial number, I am advised to make the car as original as I can dictating the lovely AM and single speaker arrangement. That's Ok, because the car has so little sound deadening material, listening to tunes is nearly out of the question! So much for my favorite Eric Clapton album. I found an original working radio and unblemished face plate to be fairly rare and expensive. I searched long and hard and was shocked to find a real nice radio and face plate as expensive as a contemporary sound system - paying for something that would look great but I would hardly use.

They are not the same. By 1972, the Hitachi AM radio was upgraded to AM/FM reception and the antenna switch was changed. This picture is missing the knobs on the radio, but they are the same as the previous picture.

The Walter Mitty Historic Races are coming up soon at Road Atlanta, Georgia - April 30 - May 2. This message came in the morning e-mail concerning the activities of Grassroots Motorsport Magazine and Classic Motorsport Magazine for the event. I'm not pushing the mags, but I do plan to attend the event. Thought you would be interested: Come Help Us Celebrate 20 Years of GRM and Classic Motorsports Magazine’s First Anniversary at Road Atlanta On May 1-2, in conjunction with HSR’s Classic Motorsports Walter Mitty Challenge, Grassroots Motorsports Magazine will be celebrating 20 years- and Classic Motorsports Magazine will be celebrating its first anniversary - in the heart of the action at Road Atlanta. Event highlights will include the Kumho Tires MINI Cooper Challenge (where attendees can try their autocross skills behind the wheel of a new MINI), on-track activities sponsored by the Tire Rack (hot laps and parade laps), concours judging and car club corrals. B.S. Levy, author of “The Last Open Road” and Classic Motorsports columnist, will be on hand to meet attendees. Carl Heideman and his British Motor Trade Association will be organizing a variety of technical seminars, and Champion Motor Cars will be building one of their incredible Lotus Super 7 replicas in the infield for all to see. And a variety of CMS and GRM project cars will be on display – come check out the legendary rotary-powered Spitfire, the new SRT-4 we’re campaigning this year at the Solo II Nationals, and our Triumph TR3A vintage racer, among many others. Have something to sell? Swap meet space is free to all paid entrants, and there will be a special area set aside for those looking to sell a car. For more information about the event, be sure to check out the party page at GRM Online: http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/party.php

Restoration sharks are the worst, aren't they?

600 grit wet-or-dry by 3M.

Oh yea! I would be interested in set of the chrome Z's also.

Hi kats, I have been collecting hose clamps for some time now. In America, mechanics do not like the wire type of clamp and it is common to have the banded clamp. Later style wire clamps had the hex head and it is almost impossible to find the rounded screw type any more. Your substitution screw is a good idea. I love how you lined up the screw heads - perfectionist! I usually see things like that on Porsches! I can't tell you how many times I have refered your site to people with questions. It is just great to have such a resource. I sent this picture to Alan last night. You may enjoy this also. Every now and then I see Datsun factory tools for sale and I collect them. For what reason, I don't know. But, I just found an original Special Services Tool Box. Have a look.

Don't feel bad, mdbrandy. I KNOW my badging is the later style. There was no badging at all on my car when I bought it. Kats, do you have the chromed plastic thumb latch for the fuel door? The later styles were chromed metal and closed in the horizontal position. The early ones were chromed plastic and closed in the verticle position.

Great picture kats, The fog lamp pictures I posted are evidently not authentic as they were originally advertised. Strike those pictures! Do you know who manufactured the lights for Nissan?

Will do

Ok you guys! Here is an interesting picture I just pulled off eBay concerning the installation of the hand throttle. Supposedly, all series one cars have this metal bracket welded up underneath the dash at the firewall. So you want my secret source for jute, eh? What's it worth to you? Check out Lebaron Bonney http://www.lebaronbonney.com/catalog.htm page 92, part number US 121, synthetic jute padding, 5/16" X 36" wide rolls - $3.99 a yard. I just called and asked for a sample.