26th-Z

Very nice! Tip-of-the-hat to Kevin for the accomplishment.

I have attempted to respond to several of the comments made in this thread without success. There is no need to jump on anyone for any personal attack or negative comment. Some remarks are very well made from people whom understand what led to this video clip. I don't know (even loosely) what the Datsun Heritage Museum business plan is or what the Board of Directors have in mind, but from a "museum" implying historical integrity, this clip never should have happened. Probably the most well put comment was: "then what chance is there to ever get this stuff discussed with any accuracy?" Alan, I don't agree with the idea that a brand is just a badge. It is far more. It is identity which is crucial to marketing success. If Nissan never should have branded the line of automobiles Datsun in the first place, then Nissan has an identity crisis. Perfect example - the rally cars. Labeled both Datsuns and Nissans, a viewer has no idea what the car is. Frankly from first glance, it would appear the award winning cars were Datsuns with Nissan engines. Or Nissan Motor Company, Ltd. sponsored / entered a Datsun. If there is any inference that Datsun = good and Nissan = bad, I would suggest that the fault is with Nissan.

I'm having a hard time seeing it, Randy. Is that the frame rail below the battery tray? If so, that's common but bad. You could go as far as replacing the frame rail. Charlie has them. Or you could patch the spot - depending on how extensive it is. Still, its part of the frame rail structure of the car and needs to be repaired.

Yes. Chevrolets are Chevrolets in America, not GMs. And as such, Datsuns are Datsuns, not Nissans. Biggest most well known marketing gaff in history is Nissan taking away the Datsun brand. Only "New Coke" comes close. At the time, the Datsun brand in North America rivaled the big three and symbolized "the Japanese invasion". Fred's museum has that underlying tone of protest for what became a huge cost for Nissan's market in North America. Even the famous rally cars are Datsuns Alan, come on! So the subject car is probably in the museum because there is a rotation of cars, everybody wants to show their car at the museum, and there is a California good-ol boys thing going on. Some club cars go on display, all the friends come down to the museum to see them, everybody wins. It doesn't sound like Fred had the slightest idea what that car was and he shouldn't be doing interviews like that. We'll have to poke some fun at him. I know the museum has some very nice pieces; Ron Carters' cars are there. Mr. K's car is there. It looks like the colection of memorabilia is growing. "This car actually came from Japan..."; lets hope he was poking fun at the guys who think that they were assembled and painted at the port!

What's your engine serial #, Rich? As you describe the oil pan, it sounds like you have an early one. Check your head stud lengths - you might have three different sizes. Those engines were painted after assembly and you will notice blue and black overspray on various parts. Blue overspray on the aluminum head and front timing cover. Blue overspray on a black oil pan and maybe some black overspray on the block from the oil pan and engine mounts. I put my engine back together with the overspray as it was originally painted. Some people prefer the clean look. The weld marks on your oil pan signify an early engine; unique to the early cars. A damper plate was welded on to the oil pans because of vibration. I would like to see pictures of the V!

Got an e-mail referencing an article in Machinist's Workshop magazine http://www.magazine-agent.com/machinists-workshop/magazine I tried to look it up, but the site wants to see my cookies and as you all know Her Majesty doesn't show her cookies to just anyone. Anyhow, we have had several discussions about removing rusted bolts and rusted hardware. I can't seem to find any appropriate thread to tack this on to. Here is supposedly what was said in the article: Machinist's Workshop Magazine recently tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts with significant results: They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Penetrating oil Average Torque to Remove Nut > None ............ ......... . 516 pounds > WD-40 ............ ........ 238 pounds > PB Blaster ............ .. 214 pounds > Liquid Wrench ........ 127 pounds > Kano Kroil ............ ... 106 pounds > ATF-Acetone mix...... .53 pounds The ATF -Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 Automatic Transmission Fluid and acetone. >Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. My first thought was about mixing ATF fluid with acetone and the spontaneous combustion thing they taught us in grade school. I don't know if the two fluids are compatible to be stored in a container. Perhaps just mix enough up to use. I was surprised that Liquid Wrench scored higher than my favorite PB Blaster, however Kroil is seriously good. Evidently, Mouse Milk wasn't mentioned.

Your question prompted me to call her chok'n-arse up as I haven't talked to her in long time either. She was in good spirits and seems to be getting along pretty well. The economy has her down as is typical these days. She says ZRush is sleeping in the garage and the Scarab is still apart and waiting for restoration funding. Evidently she still has a dial-up connection and doesn't play computers much as a result. She drives a 280Z which she calls the Double D. She says it means daily driver, but I tease her about the reference.

Yea, but Mark posted yesterday to revive this. I too, have a particular interest in the Scarab. Vicki ZRush has one.

Tomo, I didn't answer what you edited your post to ask. Don't do that. It confuses old farts like me.

That has to be an excerpt from a longer piece. Poor Fred - taken out of context - four hundred and thirty-two cubic inches? Fred!!! Raff Out Roud!

I think what you are referring to, Tomo, is the way the SCCA groups the various classes together in their event. Groups would be defined on the event entry form and / or event schedule.

I think the bucket picture showed these hose clamp types. The bent wire with the 3-hole retainer and a phillips head (rounded) machine screw. If you have this type, it's silver zinc plating, not the golden cad plating. Here are some pictures from a 1970 Z with 18,000 original miles. It was at the Syracuse convention.

Hmmm... you got me stumped.

Nice bucket! Your hose clamps were originally zinc silver, not cad gold. I see some other stuff that should be silver zinc too.

The engine has to be running if it won't idle properly ;-) You have a broken vacuum line, INK. One of those squiggly black hoses covering the top of your engine. Another issue here is that if one of the vacuum lines is dried out, leaking and/or broken, chances are that the rest are soon to follow. In other words, replace them all. I don't know much about 280Z fuel systems, sorry. A service or repair manual would tell you what is what.

I endorse both suggestions and believe Distinctive is where Les is getting the material for his seat kits. You might try Mike at Banzai, but it is probably going to come from the same source. And I agree that matching what you have is going to be difficult.

Zymol products tend to be pricey for no apparent reason but they are very good quality. You won't be disappointed. I tend to believe that this comes down to a get-what-you-pay-for decision.

Here is a link to the discussion. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4334&highlight=Armourall I still stand by what I said back then and object to the testimony from the I-Love-Armourall people. I just don't believe they know what they are talking about regardless of their experience. Silicon emulsion is bad for vinyl and rubber. It is a well documented fact. The interesting point of the question has to do with the "black rubber material" that came off with the application of Armourall. That should not have happened and I suspect the dash is already covered in some sort of coating as there is no rubber material on a stock dash to come off. Soap and water should be fine for cleaning.

Here's a few pictures of various manuals printed in the 70 - 71 range. In the beginning, service manuals were printed in different volumes, engine and chassis, in Japan and supplimental volumes printed in California. By 1971 all the volumes had been combined. Early original service manuals had a pebble textured paper cover and later versions, including the reprints, have a smooth glossy cover.

Carl, The Nissan Cube is hardly a "me too" vehicle. Perhaps arriving on American shores a little tardy, but it has been a Japanese domestic vehicle for several years. Comments from Denise McCluggage, AutoWeek 6-1-09 Then And Now; "Nissan brought a selection of its home-market cars to San Francisco a few years ago so American Journalists could experience them. I chatted with the Cube and could tell it wanted to stay. "Bring this one," I said. Maybe, they said. And now Nissan has. But not my cubic Cube. This Cube has read the wrong book on how to dress for success in America. We're not speaking."

Just got an update from Yoshikawa san. He posted new pictures on his web site. With so many questions regarding metal and body work, I thought you all would find this as fascinating as I do. Hello Chris, I made all aluminum door for S30. Original was 34.8lb but new door is 19.84lb! I put these photos on my website. I want speak to members of Classic Z cars.... Soon I will make hood for S30. Best Regards, Shin Yoshikawa

I want to bitch that all this BRE repro stuff is lowering the value of original historic items that were expensive and difficult to obtain.

The roof of 26th was covered in aluminum foil once to reflect the hot Florida sun.

Agreed. The Shin creation is just the body shell, tub, chassis, whatever and does not include any running gear, suspension, engine, glass or interior. The thing to do would be to transfer all of that from a titled car. Shin has indicated that a customer in Japan is using an S20 engine.

The current ZCCA rules note the ARA kit but describe the compressor as 'York'. I don't know why. I'll look for Sankyo. I don't know, Jon. Carl may be talking about Dependable. The DAS I'm talking about became WWL.