26th-Z

A couple of other pieces you won't see very often. The 1970 commemorative and an original water color done by Steve Petrowsky. Steve sells prints of this. I like the pair of cutaways you framed, Clive. I bought the Z cutaway and wish I had picked up the dime to go with it.

I was there also. Those were the days, eh?

I wish I had taken a picture before I disassembled the console. The switches are black toggle style with a white dot - similar to the radio antenna switch.

Nice posters, Clive.

Correct me if I'm wrong, please, but aren't "OEM" windshields "NLA"? I bought one several years ago and two days before it arrived, I was told it was NLA. Then, of course, it arrived and I stopped freaking. Just before the Dallas convention in 2006, a friend of mine found and bought one for over $1000. My understanding is that a clear glass, S30, Nissan windshield is unobtanium.

I was going to comment, as I began to read this thread, what Arne pointed out. 4 screws / no float bowl drain plug. I'm thinking I have collected four sets and I'll be in touch with Mr. Palmer. Getting back to the fish-of-the-point, a tune-up kit should bring marked results. These carbs can be fun to rebuild. They are not difficult and IMHO, ZTherapy has the best deal going.

Way good news! Congrats!

Datsun did install air conditioning systems at the dealer level that were specified by Nissan. A "Frigiking" system is referenced in the technical service bulletin TS70-50 of October 21, 1970 and TS71-54 of November 12, 1971. They were dealer installed, specified and supplied by Datsun. Indeed the ZCCA judging rules specify "ARA or Frigid King, with basic York compressor".

Thanks Arne. This is a hot topic once again!

Here is the Vintage Z window sticker. Carl, didn't we call these "Maroney documents"?

I know where to get repro ID plates if you want one. I think they are still available. PM me.

Assuming you are talking about an HLS30U, the ID / date tag should be riveted to the driver door jamb. I would guess 379th to be a 12/69 car and the serial # should be five digits, not six. 00379?

Oh geeze, I guess I didn't notice the 12/70 part of the question. That would make the car a 1971 model year and the preheater throat would be on the air filter housing. I don't have any of those to photograph. And here I was all prepared to get into a discussion about the differences between the early ones!?!! Sorry guys.

No, I don't. Sorry. Some time ago, Carl Beck used to have an e-mail "list" discussion group and one of the topics was about this. I guess that's where I got the image. It was very small originally and when it is enlarged the crispiness is lost. It's supposed to be from 1972.

I know of three different styles of the 'series one' air filter housing. The earliest did not have tune-up or emission stickers on them.

Enjoy

That's a good price, Carl. Very good price.

Yes...I know. I just sold two ash trays. So, Will...do you still need the knobs?

The bell housing cover plate, or as I call it 'end plate", is steel and is plated. I think silver zink however I see them in light gold cad. I agree with Dan in that 'satin black' could be 'semi-gloss'. The old paint I look at on my parts has some sheen to it. That could be the age as well as the scrubbing to get the part clean. I went with semi-gloss. My alternator pulleys are black with the light gold cad fan. The shop manual shows it that way even though it is a B&W photo. The pulley is solid black in the exploded diagram also. FWIW Original cad plating, as we call it gold cad, isn't very gold and isn't a consistant color. I have seen restored stuff that is jewlery-store gold in color and that's not completely correct. Have a look at the pulley bolt picture I posted. It almost looks silver.

Yes; same finish on the oil pan. Seems like the engine was sprayed with a very broad tip to get such a pattern. Notice how the lip of the oil pan "masks" the first inch or so of the pan. I came across this topic some years ago when I began talking restoration technique. Some restorers enjoy the crisp clean lines and definitions of the finish. Others go to great lenghts, as Mike just pointed out, to replicate the exact original finish. This came up when we were talking paint dabs on the suspension bolts and manufacturing techniques. That was the first time I encountered the term 'bling'.

You sure can tell the difference! Datsun Dusty Blue. Tower paint is a great resource. That's what Les and Mike sell. Here is a crank pulley fresh out of the Nissan box for comparison.

Very cool! Thanks! I can't view the picture either, but I can view the exploded diagram. Great article!

I dug these engine mounts out of a box yesterday. These are the original mounts from 26th. Blue overspray on one black mount and no overspray on the other.

As one might expect, the fuel pump is missing from 27th. I spent the day oiling her yesterday. I figured that if I oil her periodically, she will come apart with a little more ease. I'll tell ya, those rust brothels in Delaware must be brutal. Next time your'e visiting a porn site, imagine what those women are going to look like in 40 years! Eauwww! 26th doesn't have a much better story in terms of fuel pumps. Her Denki fuel pump was spitting oil the last time I drove her. This was well before I came to realize the importance factor of date codes and original original correctness. So, at the time, I just drove over to International Auto Parts and bought this Nikki from Sam and Mahty. It came from Bap-Geon in a Bap-Geon box. The set screw in the center is painted white and notice the difference in the body casting between the two. The Nikki cap is different from other examples also. It is smooth with no raised castings for an A2 stamp. The ink stamp on the base is 1-6-3.

I didn't think a new windshield was available any more,