26th-Z

The picture I used was not from Z Car Depot but their part may very well be from the drive shaft. I think they called it a propeller shaft yoke. Anyhow, Jeffrey, you're on the right track with Terrapin.

If I understand you correctly, you are looking for part #11? The yoke? ZCarDepot has them - $40

My experience with car covers on open trailers is that the wind will billow the cover and cause it to rub / slap against the paint. I wouldn't recommend using a cover for that purpose.

Beck-Arnley https://www.beckarnley.com/ I use the Permatex Ultra Copper as well

No, it's the level of naivete, and high level of "I could care less". Nonsense yes, but that guy is there to sell his car. That's all. BaT banter is just that, banter.

I did an internet search and read a few things to confirm what I already knew. The chemicals in the polymer evaporate out and the material becomes brittle over time. Heat will make the material pliable, something in the 200 degree range, boiling water temperature, but the material will return to its same brittle state when it cools down. There is no way to infuse the material with what has evaporated out over the years. There are some really good products to protect and slow further damage, the Mequiar's being one of the top five, but that's about all you can do.

Yea, those look like tow bar brackets. Nice car, but I would cringe at making the restoration budget work.

Resurrected Classics: I was looking for the hood prop clip that welds to the top of the radiator frame. Max cut one out of a car and sent it to me. They have some replacement body panels and I bought a rear valance and spare tire well from them. Very well done replacement body panels. Yes, they are legit.

I was just talking to an engine builder who was describing the benefits of ceramic coating the combustion chamber and piston tops.

"This looks like political commentary." No it doesn't.

If you are going to buy one, why not get the real one from the source? https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020B03&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts

I think your car is way more valuable with the period upgrades. It should drive much stiffer with better road-holding capabilities. I was going to go for a set of your wheels before Alan talked me into a set of Watanabes. I have adjustable camber bushings also. But I think you will enjoy your car much more set up the way you describe. The stuff you have on your car is just as valuable. I would keep the BRE options.

Joined here in 2003 after spending a couple of years with Carl's IZCC.

I have been buying a bunch of stuff from McMaster Carr lately. Their metric nut and bolt inventory is very good.

I notice E4125 on your document, Kats. But we were talking about E4126 as the early H.L. cover set? I'm confused.

Just returned from the body where I snapped these pics of 26th. The shape of the bracket for the master vac hose is not as defined as on 27th. Also, the tool bracket is not bent over like the bracket on 27th.

HLS30U-00027 has the brackets. Pictures attached. I'll see 26th later this morning and take pictures. Sorry for the rusty photographs. 26th is looking much better.

My vote for "only a mother could love" thread. Wow, it's fugly.

Yes, shorter side outboard.

Grab your fan blade and wiggle it front to back. If there is any movement at all, the water pump is bad and needs to be replaced.

Getting back to the glove box discussion: I finally took a picture of the glove box from HLS30-00026. It's a universal type glovebox and 26th is a 'U' not a 'UV' but just the same for glove boxes.

Door hinge differences: early type on the right and later type (most common) on the left. Rebuild kits for both types are available.

I'll bet the metal clamp from the later style inspection lid would work. I'll do some measurements when my replacement arrives.

Found it! Resurrected Classics. Thanks Steve.

Thanks, thought I would try here first.