HKSZ

July 1-3 Who's been and who's going, I'm looking at making it this year looks like you have to prebook tickets do I need 1 day or 2 to take it all in Steve

Steve I'm 6'3" run a sparco pro 2000, got my cage builder to cut old seat mounts out weld in square frame from tunnel to sill to bolt the side mounts to, couldn't use runners still too close to cage height so fixed in my perferred position. Get a harness bar made at the same height as top seat belt holes, belts which mount lower than horizontal tend to compress your spine in a shunt. Check state road laws on cages sometimes side intrustion bars have to be lower than seat cushion. Steve

update and i found it best to leave the bar connected on the 280zx, better to live with the oversteer than the twitchy cornering without a bar. No bar or a open diff in the 240z has never been a big issue for me, perhaps its the design and weight of the 280zx rear suspension( similar to a 510). Dropped 2 sec a lap in a car I hadn't driven before but still 5 sec down on what I did in the 240z the year before

ahh where's the love for the 280zx, 4w discs, power steering, fuel injection. Our autox is like a dirt rallysprint over 1 or 2 kms. I ran a $400 280zx years ago and embarrassed alot of rally prepped cars in the over 2lt class. If disconnecting one end of the sway stops it from working I'll give it a go, not sure if I need to modify car or driving style with an open diff. thanks

Hi all I'm autocrossing a standard 280zx with standard open 3.7 diff this weekend on dirt and wonder if i should take off the rear sway bar, had a chance to run it last week it went well but tended to spin me out on transitioning from right to left turns. My 240z handles brilliantly with a small fr bar no rear bar and a LSD. I'm Just trying the big 280zx for fun but still want to be competitive

Yes by the time I buy a set of 2nd hand 25 year rods @ $150 and get all that work done can't see much change left. New Carrillo rod and alike are going to cost me closer to $1600au. When I mentioned it to the engine builder (a major recond and race rebuilder in Melb ) that I'm looking at H beam rods but there made in China he didn't see it as a problem most parts are..

Any thoughts on or experience on this brand of rod. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/connecting-rods-Datsun-L24-conrods-/350033555975?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item517fa03207 I see they really come out of china but would they bother making a sub quality or knock off for such a small market. Not sure whether to chance it if I'm spending $5000+ on my motor rebuild?

Same colour King Springs use here in Australia, but made it to Canada in 84 I don't know, do have a web site.

Yeah the holes are about the same just the 200 has larger studs. looks like nissan beefed up the 200 bar by making it wide too

Autocrossing the 240z zed on dirt today and may of leaned on this a bit too much. Its a R180 lsd don't think i have any more r180 bars, do I repair or use one of my 200 bars and put in a spacer plate?

Intake manifold has to come off first,top 4 bolts are easy to get at, bottom is held with 6 fat washers on studs so you only have to loosen the nuts off then the intake manifold lifts out, shouldn't have to take the heat sheild under the intake off to get at the lower 6 washers just need a socket & extension bar, except for the first one you reach down behind the exh manifold with a 12mm spanner and turn it 1/8 at a time.

Currently have a high compression L28 n42 with E88 head in a Datsun 240k that i'd like to transplant into my 240Z while its L28 f54 is out for a rebuild. Is this a fairly simple swap? I've got a spare zed sump & pickup, the sump will fit up easy its the pickup that I'm unsure of, as some searching I've done mentions 2 pickup points or extending the pickup tube? It's interesting to note that even on this front sump motor the dipstick is in the same rear spot as my zed motor. Just after some advise on attacking this or just fit one of my low comp motors out my other zed junk cars. steve

Thanks for your input guys,I do believe that a STD 2.8 is handicapped with a double or triple dampner and a heavier flywheel 10.5 kg vs 9.5kg STD 2.4L. More and more I'm leaning towards rebuilding my F54 bottom end and spending the big money on the head. Drove a 240z yesterday with the 2.7L I mentioned, similar diff ratio to mine but it runs the 240 SU's were as my standard 2.8 has triple 40 webers. After all the machining and money gone into the 2.7 I can't say the two are worlds apart, mine still has the torque, perhaps carbs the advantage. Don't have the original block, so numbers aren't an issue and alot of the classes these days are simply 2lt and over

Yeah I was going to say spins up quicker, its just i've never been that impressed with a 2.4 compared to a 2.8 in standard form. The torque I get from an unmodified 2.8 in a rally car always impresses me over say the quick reving, highly modified L18 that I and everyone else uses in a p510 rally car. My researching is trying to help me on my next engine build - triple Webers on a) 2.4L n42 with head mods 2.7L a 2.4 with L28 crank, 2.4 rods, 85mm milled flat tops, STD N42 head c) 2.8L STD bottom end, N42 welded & mods I've already got the cams and light fly

Looking thru different forums and sites alot of people feel the 2.4 is a harder reving motor than the 2.8 why is this so?

checked the 10 diffs I've got in the shed and only the r200s have the square head all the r180s are recessed. I only know the 2 240z with 3.9 R180s I've owned had the problem of a recessed plug, but who knows with the passage of time

Stephen your diff filler plug is perhaps a gearbox filler plug, which isn't a bad thing because I fit them to my diffs also to get better access. Most old datsun diffs I've seen use 2 plugs that require the 1/2" drive ratchet, that was fine when they designed the 510 but a pain in the arse with zeds.

There is a simple way. Remove breather cap, use a zip tie as a dip stick and add oil thru breather hole, or to be totally safe drain oil and add 1.1 ltr of oil thru the breather hole.

If it runs that rich from the get go I'd be checking the thermotime switch and cold start valve, sounds like they're wired to stay on

I guess that little button after the prop valve is a handbrake. I'm looking to fit an on off rally/ drift style brake. Some of the modern hydraulic handbrakes have an optional ratchet but a think using it as a permanent handbrake can blowout the rear seals.

Anyone fitted one of these to a 240Z? Would like to hear as I'm going to mount one on the Z, center on the tunnel is the usually place but I think its going to be too close to my elbow.

Haven't tried SWR yet but have a quote locally of $350 for the BMW verses this ebay one which would cost under $150 landed. The BM is fluid filled? have I got that right? the other advantage is running an underdrive. Building a hard reving motor but the main bottom end mod will be a small clutch and 6 or 7 kg flywheel.

Try running lower psi in the tyres

Has anyone purchased or used one of these dampers? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Performance-Harmonic-Damper-Crank-Pulley_W0QQitemZ370019183107QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item370019183107 Going for a light weight flywheel, is this a suitable substitue to the BMW conversion?

Nissanman has it right, Delta owned by mullins. Found a Delta catalogue from 1992 and this wheel pictured is called Phantom, only lists 4 stud as 13x 7 but I guess anythings possible, interestingly the 5 stud wheel has 7 spokes .steve