HKSZ

I can't believe the 240K has tilt adj and my 300 twin turbo doesn't FS 240K owners manual $7 K rim centre cap $4 15x6 corvette style mags GC to suit 1600 maybe 240K $80 14x6 Bathursts excell suit 1600 $200 twin 42 weber setup for 1600 $500 heaps of excell panels for 1600 280zx parts

comp plate 4/77

Yeah bumper is straight has irons,sold lesser 1600 bars for 4 times that! All doors guards etc have rust in frame, free to pick up

Had a look at the pedals and realized its got height adj steering, is this on all 240k's? I've had a few but never noticed before. a few parts 240K GL complete car but I pulled the diff centre Black door trims all good Excellent black roof lining 5 sp L28 all panels have some rust air cond most chrome lights grille belts

Yes, front is excellent, no dents bright chrome $50. Rear looks good on car too but to me it may be a bit bowed in even though there isn't any dents $15.

Its an RA65 I think, last of the rear wheel drives. My sisters uni car the 2.4 EFI is really zippy,I remember this model being the fastest NA Celica well into the '90s, been regularly safety checked I think it would need atleast 2 front tyres and an indicator lens for a RW. Located in Central VIC, maybe in Clayton, Melb. Not sure for post OS but poss For any K parts let me know I'll try and strip it bare because some of the things I've seen go to the Great Scrap Roundup make me cry, damn you Lee Kernagan!

I just bought a R30 ti skyline this weekend and have to make room :nervous: Going against my new mantra of Datsun Conservation (hoarding) I'll start wrecking my 240K manual sedan and 1600 manual sedan, could part with my triple webers 40dcoe 18's on a prince manifold or zed manifold. Also got a Celica for sale 1985 GC $700. thanks Steve.

open bonnet and if there is a white bottle on the rh side with vac hoses then it operates on vac.should be if its got factory air.If there is just one small leak (air) then none of the vent controls will work or any hot water taps. Start at the first vac hose from the manifold, pull it off and you should hear the air being sucked into the manifold then trace this hose and all connections for cracks and holes. Tip if you have to join a snapped hose cut the inner from a ink pen, the perfect connector.

Does your car have 4sp heater that operates via vacuum hoses?

I've just encountered the same problem on the 65 ID coil over kit I had fitted, the suspension guys couldn't get any boots to fit and said the same thing as jmortensen, but as this car might see some dirt I picked up motor bike fork gators at a wreckers for $8 pr fit excellent.

Yes! been there done that

You might want to look at skyline R31 rear disc's, Calipers and mounting bracket. I had started this on a 240k arm because this setup fits closely a 1600 arm. However the k has a bigger bearing ie a larger hole, what I did acheive gringing out the hole I could fit the top 2 bolt holes. The offset using the original cal, disc, and mount is spot on for a 240K, if I was going to pursue it I think I could weld up and redrill bottom hole and perhaps get 3 bolts in.

It sounds like you have a JDM manifold, so I doubt you will find another if your from Oz. Any half decent engineer will make you a copy.

Thanks all, I think labeling will be the key especially as there is that many stray wires and unplugged connectors already. Sent all 4 struts in today for a coil over conversion so its not going anywhere!

How long does it take you guys to remove a 240Z dash? Any tips to make it easier, I did it on my 260z ground up resto but that was years ago.Unfortunately the 240's heater started to leak and I thought I'd have a CRACK at repairing the dash when the heater comes out.

I saw 'the greatest ever' motorcycles last week, a little bit light on content and the #1 was a Honda 90 step thru so who knows what car will be tops! Reckon the bloke from NZ who made the Britten should have been higher, didn't even mention the fact he'd built ground effects into the frame.

One of my 280zx's has a similar fault in the TPS, dropping off revs. Get a multimeter and print off the L28 efi bible.

I erred on the side of caution and pulled the diff out and took it to an expert. It turned out the diff is fine, but that the half shafts had been over tighten, causing the clutches to lock. The Diff mechanic said he has seen it once or twice before, and chamfered back the ends reset preloads and seals. Can't help thinking if I had c/o the diff myself this wouldn't of happened, either there was a tiny difference in the 240z half shafts or perhaps the mechanic who fitted the diff used a rattle gun !

Pull all the plugs and clean them, if it doesn't make any difference I'd swap the TPS.

Heard of it, is it about the board track racers of the early 20th C ?

Is it a red 2+2 with a ford V8?

Thanks, I've got the hole on the LHs of rack which is pluged for grease I guess. Below the slack adj nut I have another small bolt, which I opened expecting oil to run out but it appears to be blocked with grease, from the manual you have to fill the rack by removing the slack nut etc. On closer inspection it seems the LH inner tie rod is loose, can this be replaced or does it mean the whole rack refurb

What exactly do you use in the 240z steering rack? a search suggests grease but the FSM says a API GL4 oil :surprised

I just put new discs on my 240z, I went for 260z hubs and disc as I had a pair of 260 hubs and the new 240 discs were $140ea compare to $75ea for 260z.

It looks like theres no power steering was that optional in Japan?