HKSZ

Brian was this car running when you bought it? To check your coil turn the ignition to on, pull the HT lead from the coil out of the dizzy end and expose the metal connector, with insulated pliers hold it very near to the strut nut and watch to see it arc. Also check your points have a gap ( .45 mm). These too will arc when opened with the ig on Steve

The starter turns over but can the motor? I'd put it into neutral and turn the motor over with a socket wrench on the crank wheel nut. If it doesn't turn over then perhaps the bores are sticky, pull out all the plugs and spray WD 40 inside. Another thought, you didn't happen to fry your 'fuseable links' when changing or jumping the batteries?

You said you have braided lines so I don't know whether this will work but try vise gripping all four flexable lines to the brakes. This will definately give you a hard pedal, if not then your M/C is rooted! I bought an old race car that had been sitting around for years and the brakes were shot. First thing I did was replace both M/Cs on the pedal box and over next 12 mths in and out of brake shops, bought new pads, rotors,caliper kits balance bars etc and still had no confidance in the anchors, thats when a mate gave me this tip. thats when we found one of the M/C was faulty, ie the first bloody thing I replaced :stupid:

I think its called Harlequin and changes 7 times between bronze and violet because of refracting diamond particles in the paint. Probably explains why its so damn exspensive

Another option is to vent your battery & washer flaps, keeping a second painted up pair so you can change back in minutes.

I have one on the rear of my car, a one piece like the orange 240 and it also has a platform on the right hand side as if a badge should be mounted there, is this a 'BRE' spoiler?

Ten years ago a fluted bonnet was the hottest mod you could put on a zed everybody wanted one, but I think now enthusiasts go for a more sleeker original body. Bonnets are probably the worst panel on the car to restore. I had a rust free straight one and decided to strip it back to bare metal it took three times as much speed filing, priming, shadow coating as any other panel and it was perfect to begin with. steve

Has anyone interchanged the venturis,jets etc? are they the same part numbers?

There are two different types of headers or flanges, we've just gone through this dilema on my brothers 260z.:stupid: In the end the best option turned out to be a 280zx manifold, its got bigger bores, heavier flange and the studs are twice as thick as the old 260 We all know the joys of a snapped stud :tapemouth :stupid: :tapemouth :stupid: You will also need the inlet pipe from the 280zx, we reckon the exhaust sounds deeper and flows better

did you get my emails and ebay pic of a similar turbo? may need to empty your box http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2419780918&category=43808&rd=1

Look good but remember you would have too cut your window glass to make them fit:ermm: I used sports mirrors similar to a ducati ss, painted them the same colour as the car, really common mirrors (K mart I think) but sporty and suit the car. If you get rid of your side repeater replace it with a clear VS holden one, perhaps before the wheel arch just a thought steve

I was thinking about $250 for the manifold and turbo, I'd cut the dump pipe off the exhaust as well. It's a nissan manifold and nissan turbo by garret airesearch, I will sep if wanted. The previous owner had it on a L24 and reckoned it pissed all over the triple weber L28 that was in this 240z race car before. I'm looking restore the car for historic racing so I'd swap, buy any twin or triple setups or extractors. I'm about 1 & 1/2 hpurs out of melb but have family in east melb Steve

Your diagnostic of "vapour lock" sounds right, but I think it's happening in the fuel lines around the hot engine and lines to the carbs. Have you got a heat sheild under the carbs? Put "heat wrap" around all fuel lines and exhaust manifold. I'm guessing you've got those 260z carbs, if so block off the extra water hoses that heat the carb bases (their only needed for snow areas ect) :classic: Steve

Drunkenmaster I've got a turbo manifold for a L series for sale, in fact I've still got the turbo and "turbo" rocker cover parts if interested. Steve

Curious too know a bit more about Dellorto carbs? I'm trying to put together a triple weber set up for a 240 (still one carb and a manifold short ) and wonder how good these 45 dellorto carbs are. What I have found is they bolt up the same but do the chokes, venturis, jets and idles interchange with the weber parts? cheers Steve

You need a screw in plug compression tester and just turn the crank nut over with a wrench till it fills. But a compression test on a cold/not run motor is going to be a lot lower than a hot or regularly driven motor so I don't think you will get an accurate idea of cond, other than a dead cyl or something. If your engine bay is sitting empty then drop in the motor with the carbs and take a chance :cheeky: steve

Hey Mick what are your carbs like, I'm looking for a set so I can take off my turbo set up off, I've got family in Tazzie so get in touch. cheers Steve

It sounds like his vavles are playing "Chopsticks" on top of his pistons, hopefully its just a slipped cam belt, which might also explain why it dosen't fire imediately

George do you have Repco in nsw? I just bought a Securon 3inch 5 way harness with the much better rotary button release. A 50% off sale I got it for $179 + $55 for the crutch belt required for Cams fia approval and dated to the end of 2007.Sale ends 22.6.02. A good buy when I paid $500 last year for a Sabelt with the same date. Also selling 4Point 2inch cams fia belts for $99. www.repcoshop.com.au ?????

It has been done. I remember the 2001 nationals in Shepparton the guy next to me had a red 260z 2+2 convertable 302 v8 with pwer steering, remember him saying the rack was from a subaru and had it done in Sydney but can't remember where?:stupid:

Btw, I installed electric windows, power steering and it was hooked up to the alarm on my old Z. To tell you the truth seeing as the car was all original it felt wrong after I put all those things on. Besides, it's just more electrical stuff that can and will go wrong at some stage. George did you have power steering on an early Z? I know the 280zx pumps and tensioners fit but what rack or mods did you use?

My guess is that this front rail has been replaced, judging by the drilled out spot welds on the rail. Have you got a compressor? if so buy a cheap sand blaster gun ($30au) and go to work on it. Solder any holes with an oxy then treat it with 'Exit Rust' and an oxide primer. Any gaps along the rail and body need to be filled with a gap sealant. Steve

Have you tried 'Wheels' in Howitt st Ballarat, buy, sell and do excellant repairs/restos.

300z tt of course. I've owned my z32 two seater for the last 3 years with relativly trouble free motoring, however it took two years to find it and there are alot of dungas out there if your looking in that sub $15k bracket. Still these are cars that that go better than they look and I constantly get people thinking its a Ferrari! but probably more amusing is the number of people on the highway that see me in their rear veiw mirror and pull off the road:D Steve

Its a strange one alright.But not the first time I've come across a L20 6cyl, the first 260z I owned had one, the sneaky owner had put a slash above the 0 in the L20 block number making it look like a L26 only when taking the head off and finding coke can size pistons did I know what I had:sick: That head was an e30 but this 05L head has a filled in chamber like the p90 so I wonder whether it would benefit from porting and 280zx valves. steve