Yarb

Take the heater core to a radiator shop. Call Junkyard Jenny or @Terrapin Z for a replacement fan motor.

Back it on and off by hand until you get a good feel of the threads. If you’re having to run it down with a wrench chances are the alignment is wrong.

JDM does have quite a few items they designed and have fabricated. Purchased quite a bit from them.

With some research, You can find a lot but not all of these parts on Amamaya or Black Hawk websites for a lot less money. Pay shipping and small tariff fee.

@Patcon That is what I had posted earlier in the thread. Going by what I’ve dealt with. The basket you mentioned earlier was the culprit.

And……….

@AndysPlit Just to be clear on what’s happening here from the information given, When a new filter is introduced into the system wether it’s a Fram or Wix filter the car runs normally for a period of time before the pump overheats and needs a cool down cycle. With that being said, the Wix filter is clear and you can easily see if it’s contaminated with rust etc. causing the pump to overheat and reduce the flow of fuel up stream to the factory filter. At that point there’s another restriction of flow going into the fuel rail itself. That being said, Is the pre-filter contaminated?

I disagree on that personally, If that filter is collecting that much trash it’s doing its job. I’ve been using the Wix filter mainly for the reason it’s the only clear plastic quality filter left on the market. Take that out and install a 10 micron filter his pump will be trashed IMHO. It’s doing its job. Unfortunately his tank has had its better days. Ran the same Wix filter on my S30 tank no issues with flow rate to the pump. Immediately primed with no issues. I did install a shut off valve before the filter for maintenance as well.

I have some pics somewhere, I’ll see if I can find those and post them here.

They drop ship from a warehouse here in the US. You can re-use the rubber pads off your original tank by cleaning them up and re-gluing them back onto the new tank.

Please don’t waste your money on a near 50 year old tank. There’s a screen assembly inside at the pickup that’s been known as a major culprit. I went the route of acid cleaning and red coat before. 3 months later pin holes developed around the seams of the tank. Do yourself a huge favor and order a new tank from S30.World. These tanks are an amazing duplicate to the factory spec. Check them out. I highly recommend it after wasting $300 on getting my 78 cleaned.

I agree, Noticed as soon as you increased idle just a bit you got into the range. Bump it up on the idle adjustment

Try junkyard Jenny Or @Terrapin Z

Did you find the factory part number on car parts manual.com?

Go to carpartsmanual.com Find the factory part number and google it.

There out there on different sites.

What means did you use to install it? I think that will give a tell tale sign of what’s going on. @Kirb Berhow use the @ sign along with the members name and they will get flagged in their email for notifications. Just a heads up. Really interested on how you pressed the bearing on and what tools were involved?

Sounds good, Thanks

That’s fantastic news. When will the new cost be announced so I can get one ordered? Thanks Friend John

The resonator will help a bit. Mainly the drone noise on the highway

Pics?

Resurected has a lifetime warranty on their products. Call Max and ask him about his product

I ran my 78 out of a 5 gallon can while tuning/ working on the engine waiting on my new tank. Had both the supply & return hoses in the same can. I remember looking at the amount returning to the can and don’t recall it having that sort of volume.

Went back and looked at the Rock Auto listing and they listed 70- 80lbs max. Sure seems like a lot of pressure. What was the flow like returning to the can? Probably pretty strong I would think. Anyone know the specs on the Bosch pump?

That’s the truth.