Yarb

The part number is the same for both. Might want to look into getting the threaded sleeve as well.

Rock Auto shows 1981 to be the last year for the 810. Temperature sender from Beck Arnley shows they are the same for the Z series.

Your going to have to trace the circuit. There’s no way around it.

Grab a multimeter and the FSM and follow the wiper motor circuit from the switch to the motor. Establish that you have power going to the switch first. A test light is not the proper tool to use for debugging a circuit. You mentioned earlier you had a working motor that spun freely. Did you try that motor?

Just curious did you try the Kroil?

Mention you are a member of ClassicZ when you ask for pricing. I contacted them directly and saved $.

I’ve purchased from them and are very reputable. When you do contact them address your question to Amy. I had a small problem with a nick in my front bumper during shipment via FedEx and they immediately replaced it.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/14-1256 Here’s a listing from MSA Sent from my iPad

No tricks, Looks like the hatch strut and bracket is in the way.

Those are some good looking rims and shoes. Can’t wait to see those mounted on the car.

225/45/ZR15 ?

Definitely interested in the complete set.

The last thread was somewhat recent. Back around May iirc

@EuroDatcould possibly help you on this one.

Tried them all. Kroil by far the best in my opinion.

Pressure plate. 225mm has 6 IIRC. 240mm has 9. Someone please correct me if I’m mistaken.

Didn’t see it mentioned in the threads above. There are 3 extra bolt locations on the 240mm pressure plate. I had extrasffor my install. Not sure if they are NLA.

Kroil. Amazon

Check your voltages and let us know. Especially if this is the second radio. The one variable is the red wire. Meter will tell you everything. Test light won’t get you the info you need.

Looking at the wiring illustration you posted is correct. Did you buy this new? Possibility it’s the radio but you should have a switched 12 volts on the red wire. Need more information after you’ve checked it with a meter.

Check the red wire for switched accessory power. The wiring diagram is correct. If your not getting 12volts on the red wire that’s part of your problem. The way your describing it now the radio will stay powered on until you manually turn it off.

Can’t speak for all car audio systems. Installed car stereos at a shop years ago in college. The yellow wire was always constant 12v and the red was ignition switched power. Blue was auto antenna. The power amplifiers were normally wired the same yellow constant, red switched.

Check the FSM wiring diagram for the correct electrical hookup.

Keys in ignition buzzer?

Nice Work!!