Yarb

MSA has replacement shafts. Start fresh and the shafts they sell are stronger and have replacement joints.

@SteveJ Not sure I’ve heard this before about collection jar being above the bleeder. Is this necessary for the drum brakes in particular? Currently bleeding my new system with speed bleeders. Have a great pedal without booster assist. Fire the car up and pedal goes straight to the floor no resistance. I’ll start a new thread from here.

Very fortunate they did not snap off at the head. Still a lot of fun ahead once the housing is removed. Back and forth with small increments may have prevented them snapping off. Had about a 50% luck ratio trying that method. As you know sometimes it just isn’t going to budge….

I’ve always loved the sound a shotgun makes when your chambering a shell !!

Jar it with a sand hammer on both sides and it might pry off with a little persuasion. If you look at the FSM it will illustrate how it’s mounted on the head itself. Should pull off towards the driver side fender.

Looks like the one above number 1 intake/exhaust

Tried your link, No luck… takes me to the last page I viewed on Amazon.

Hey John, we’re you going to put that FPR on before you drop it in. Probably a lot easier than fighting with the FI hose leaning over the car. Pretty tight fit.

Getting that free money to stay home. Scary to think where you work is an open door to start a career and have benefits for a lifetime. Very Sad

Try tapping them in with a brass hammer or wooden block. Are you certain there bottomed out?

@jeffg78 beat me to it…..

Hey John did you try fitting the plate without the disc? Wonder if it’s a dowel issue.

And don’t forget I believe the Captain still has his flip phone!!

Awesome Cliff!! CONGRATS!!

Just trying to show alternative’s friend

I agree on the 24 series as being original. Unfortunately there aren’t many suppliers that go into the higher amperage ratings. Recently I found the 34 series AGM battery from Bosch. 770 CCA with a 4 year warranty Non prorated replacement. Just installed mine and it’s a bit shorter than the 24 series but with the spacer provided it fits fine. $238 Probably not for the purist Z owner but is has the cranking power and residual capacity.

The outside diameter of the 280z bushing sleeve is 35mm

I bought the “Energy” bushings from ZCD for the 280Z. All I can tell you is they don’t fit without the sleeves intact. Sounds like the 240 has a smaller diameter sleeve. I have measurements I can pass on if needed.

Is this a 240 or 280z? Not sure if the diameter is different.Also what brand bushing are you using?

Group34

Flops around without the sleeve.

If you go with Poly, Do not remove the bushing sleeve. They are designed to fit in the inner portion where it’s deteriorating. Ask me how I know!!!

@Zed Headjust looked back at post #15. Could it be possible that this was an automatic at one time? Spacer never removed? Secondly the give away would be the neutral safety switch being jumpered at the harness where the reverse light harness is located. Fresh in my mind because of the conversion I’m doing. Totally different harness. Thoughts? Another thought, Would the bolts not be barely long enough to reach the crank? I realize this is a stretch….

Your ring gear/flywheel/starter must have an issue. Sounds like you’ve made an adjustment on the drive gear depth but certainly not a permanent fix. Are you trying to buy time or is the fix you were looking for? Keep in mind if that ring gear comes loose for some crazy reason it will be catastrophic. Just my 2 cents.

Had the same issue on the 78 280. Some one suggested loosening or removing the rear sway bar. Once that was out of the way I had access. Another trick is once you have the box end wrench on the nut spin the shaft by turning the rear tire. This will wedge the wrench against the frame and break the nut loose.