Yarb

Good news...Thanks for clarifying that for me. My production date is 1/78. Not sure why some suppliers list 78 as being different.

Like to get some clarification if I can Please. After looking through many posts that might provide an answer for me. Is the 78 model steering rack different from the 77 and older 280z racks. I’ve checked the Nissan parts listing and can’t find any difference other than the 240 p/n listings. What I’ve found is when I search for a replacement for the 1978 it’s either not available or on back order. The only site that show a listing is Buy Auto Parts and it’s back ordered. My manufacture date is 1/77. Can any one clear this up for me. Appreciate the help.

Silvermine sells the came axle I installed. Spoke with them at length and my binding seemed to be caused by the axle being well below horizontal. Jacking the control arm towards horizontal relieved the binding. Continuing on with rear brake install and will be able to check everything at ride height.

I don’t understand why these are being marketed by different sources. Selling the weld on plates and being told to use the 300zxt axles. I now realize they don’t fit properly. I used the Track Automotive axles which I guess I will try to return. Silvermine offers the axles but we’re more expensive.

Need some help troubleshooting a problem with the cv axel installation. Bought the adapters from Silvermine an had the flanges welded to the adapters. This was the final piece to rebuilding the rear suspension. I understand there is a left and right 300zxt axle which I ordered. During the install the shafts were extremely tight and difficult to install. At first I thought they were not seated all the way but that was not the case. I did verify that the axles did have compression but still very difficult to put into position. The axle hubs spin easily until t he shafts are installed. After the shafts are installed it seems like they are binding due to the pressure between the axle and the diff. Double checked the cv axle p/n’s and they are correct. Can anyone shed some light on this? So close to being done with this part of the build. Thanks for the help everyone has given so far.

Installed the mustache bar without the offset washers. Seems to line up well.

Thanks, What do you think about the slanted off set washers that come in the kit. I was told by Whitehead they are used for leveling. OEM doesn’t require them. Just wanted a bar to bolt on and put my rebuilt suspension back together. The other concern is once it’s installed it’s mine.

The piece I’m concerned about is it does not lay flat against the diff if you use their offset washers. I don’t see anyone else doing that. I’m considering returning it and going another route. Looking for some advice?

1978 280Z Manufacture date 1/78 just checked out Techno toy and their bar requires in-house modification if it’s a s31 diff being used on a S30. Interesting.... Zed I misspoke my R200 is not a Z31 300Z 83 280ZX

I got an email from Mike and explained the situation. The bar does not lay flat against the diff. It’s suspended by the washers which is completely opposite from the OEM bar. I’m up grading to a 200 and thought it was going to be a simple bolt on. I’ve rebuilt the entire rear suspension and a little Leary of installing it. He had never heard of anyone else having this problem with stud length. The R200 came from an 83ZX which has a different mount but the raw diff looks like my 180 except more robust. I’m having a hard time believing this is the design. He did say the thick side of the washer goes towards the bottom on the inside and reversed on the outside. Following that advice leaves me a very short stud length. He also said it would be ok to leave off the outside washer if need be. Totally Confused on what to do.

The aluminum washers for the diff studs. They are offset in thickness. Let me try to explain this another way. There are four aluminum washers that mount the bar to the differential. Each washer is in the form of a wedge. I assume they are for offsetting the angle at the diff when mounted. The problem is if you use washers front and back the studs are to short. I’d say 3/8” protruding through the hole.

Attempting to install the R200 diff using Whiteheads mustache bar. The unit has offset washers tie wrapped to the bar front and back when I unboxed it. Not sure what they are for. Tried to contact them by email and left a vm. Need some help from anybody familiar with this product. The mounting hole seems a bit large and would have a lot of play on the rear of the diff. Not sure what I’m missing here.No possible way to use the washers. Studs protrude out 1/2 inch withe the aluminum washers.No way near long enough

Can any one tell me wha year maxima calipers are used? Thanks

View Advert M/T Plate & Pedals needed to convert A/T to Manual Converting my 280z to a five speed transmission Advertiser Yarb Date 12/14/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1978 Model 280Z  

I’m pulling mine out of my 280 relatively soon along with the matching R180 differential. Car has 138k miles on it. Don’t think my dad ever drove it over 60mph. It’s been in storage for about. 10 years. Shifted fine before it was in put in storage.I’m retrofitting it to a 83zx 5 speed. Speaking of that anyone out there that has pedals and a dust shield for a manual trans please let me know.

Went ahead and removed the sway bar. That helped a lot to gain access. Followed the technique you guys suggested and a little help from Kroil and the shaft is out. 42 years of tight, sounded like they were snapping in two when they broke loose. Quick question, The car is on skates while I’ve been working on it. After removing the diff, Can the vehicle be moved around on skates without putting back the front support. I have Stands under the chassis just to be safe. The front transverse link from what I see doesn’t have any support without it. Trying to do as much cleanup on the suspension as I go.

Awesome... Thanks

Is this book still available?

That was the direction I was heading. Sway bar was coming out eventually. Rebuilding the rear suspension with the diff swap. There just has to have been a better design. Appreciate the help...

Having the same issue, 78 280 and the shaft has never been removed. 2nd owner bought it with 18k miles. Open end is just going to round them off. Replacing the diff with a R200. Need some advice from the Forum... Thanks in advance Thought about doing that, just thought there was something I was missing. Truly a poor design. I guess I should be happy there are “D” Heads on the opposite side. I’ll put some kroil on them and give it a shot. Thanks Zed

Having the same issue, 78 280 and the shaft has never been removed. 2nd owner bought it with 18k miles. Open end is just going to round them off. Replacing the diff with a R200. Need some advice from the Forum... Thanks in advance

Dave, I really appreciate your time and effort today. Thanks for documenting today’s events which will come in handy when we revisit the AFM in the future. Once it’s back on the road I believe we will have a better idea on dialing it in. I think you. Accomplished quite a lot today just seeing the car for the first time. At this point as you documented earlier to focus on the gauge issue for now and move on to the drive train swap. Thanks to everyone for the guidance in order to get another Z back on the road. I’m looking forward to the next challenge ahead.

Dave WM has graciously offered to help speed up the process by going over some tuning procedures with me and hopefully getting Her back on the road after a 12 year Z nap....I’m fortunate we live fairly close.

And all the others patiently waiting in line!!!

And all the others patiently waiting in line!!!