Yarb

Can anyone recommend a supplier for a quality rebuild kit for a r200?

Injectors were sent to HPI and rebuilt. New OEM pump. While apart I checked the AFM, TPS, Thermotime switch for CSV and the thermostat to ECU. Went step by step by the FSM. Only part could not check static was the fuel pressure regulator. Definitely had corrosion issues on most connectors which I resolved. All vacuum and fuel lines replaced. Thanks for your input much appreciated

Thanks Zed, I’ll let you know what I find

Not sure where to go from here. It turns over, I have spark, acts like it’s begging for fuel.

The factory oe is on it now. Have a Bosch 64018 replacement coming tomorrow

So the needle nose technique causes restraint in the system. Does that point to the regulator if it runs?

During this procedure will the fuel normally bypass the regulator and go to my return tank? On Initial turnover I’m getting 36psi and after it sits for a few minutes it drops down to 10lbs static. Meanwhile I’ve sent a lot of fuel to the return tank.

Won’t run more than 4 or 5 seconds and it’s not smooth. Are you talking about the oil pressure switch they mention in the FSM?

Sorry, new to the site. I can go back and start a new thread. It,s a 78

Just tried to fire my 280 for the fist time. Sitting 12 years plus. Replaced pump OE, injectors, all rubber lines. Pressure gauge. Cleaned and or replaced everything feasible that looked worn and or deteriorated. I had the tank cleaned and lined. Have not installed the tank as of yet. Want to restore the rear suspension first allowing more room to work. I tried to crank the engine using two fuel cans. Supply and return. The results were it fired and quit over and over again but would not run. This is what I found after trying to crank the motor. 36 psi holding for two or three minutes then dropping down considerably after a few minutes. The return can had a lot of fuel in it. Almost as if it was bypassed directly back to the tank. Have decent spark coming from the original coil. Rotor and cap look ok. Could be the original wires. Does it sound like the FPR is stuck in the open position. Everything on the vehicle is original. I’ve owed it since 1984. any help would be much appreciated

I agree, I replaced the joints years ago before I put it in storage. Not sure if I will have to use the shafts from the ZX since I’m replacing the 180 with the R200. Same with the drive shaft, I heard the flange might be different as well. Also I assume on the conversion I saw they used the turbo axle for strength or possibly the length of the shafts.

I saw where you buy the plates and use cv axles for a 300 turbo. I have a 78 280 AT that I’m converting to manual 5spd. I recently bought the entire drive train from a 83zx. R200 and close ratio transmission. Came with all 3 shafts. I want to remove and refurbish/ upgrade as much as I can without breaking the bank. I plan on doing the work just looking for advice on the best route to go. I hate it when I hear Man you should have done this!! I’ll have it completely apart wan to do brakes & cv conversion all at one time. Looking for as much expertise as possible. Thanks

I saw where you buy the plates and use cv axles for a 300 turbo. I have a 78 280 AT that I’m converting to manual 5spd. I recently bought the entire drive train from a 83zx. R200 and close ratio transmission. Came with all 3 shafts. I want to remove and refurbish/ upgrade as much as I can without breaking the bank. I plan on doing the work just looking for advice on the best route to go. I hate it when I hear Man you should have done this!! I’ll have it completely apart wan to do brakes & cv conversion all at one time. Looking for as much expertise as possible. Thanks

Does anyone have a source for the weld type plates that aren’t $250 a set?

Are the dampers prone to clogging? Mine has no Sign of leaking.

Zed Head, is the damper you’re referring to a direct fit replacement. I.m replacing the pump with OEM parts. Mine was frozen from rust in the tank. I would assume the damper is defective also.

An old cool trick is to slit the hose and hold the hose/barb in boiling water for two minutes. The rubber will swell and pull away from the barb. Just did it on my 78 with factory hoses.

Not sure I’ve heard or seen that done before. I’d like to see how they would attempt that.

Sorry, must have misread your post.

I bought the entire drive train. Drive & half shafts. I do need a different mustache bar though.

Probably will give it a try. Currently has the r180 3.54 ratio. I’m converting the automatic over to manual finally. Dave, are the diffs easy enough to have checked out other than replacing the ears as well? The parts car is a 83 ZX.

Probably will give it a try. Currently has the r180 3.54 ratio. I’m converting the automatic over to manual finally. Dave, are the diffs easy enough to have checked out other than replacing the ears as well? The parts car is a 83 ZX.

So do you have any complete sets or just the corner peices

This is Great information. Now I need to find a good trans shop here in central Florida to go through it before I drop it in. Converting an automatic to manual. I found a complete drive train from a 83.

Recently found a close ratio 5 speed from a 83 ZX. I understand it’s a “FS5W71B” transmission. Searching for a rebuild kit with synchro’s. I’ve found kits for suffix models “C” & “E” etc. but none referencing “B”. I hear Transtar is reputable but not having any luck finding a kit. Any information would be much appreciated.