Yarb

If your not “using a later model tach from a 74 or later year model, There should only be one wire on the negative side of the coil.”

One proven option is to have the headers ceramic coated. Jet Hot coatings in SC does a great job. Look them up on line. Great video. The heat shield IMO just circulates the heat beneath the hood.

How many racks were involved with your shipment?

Are you running headers or the factory manifold?

@SteveJ He is an amazing guy when it comes to wiring issues.

Glad to see you back @Racer X. I understand it’s been quite a journey for you. I hope you are doing well friend.

I assume that’s Rochester Ny.

You don’t cut anything

Go back and look at post #2 Item (10)

Why not try to find a known good gauge that someone possibly here on the forum for testing purposes. It won’t go to waste having an extra for future use. If it doesn’t pan out.

Exactly what @Zed Head posted in post 49.

There are many connections on the harness that need addressing. AFM etc. Are you doing the work yourself or having it done. That makes a huge difference in moving forwards as far as cost goes and I truly understand. Looking back and have known what I have learned fighting mine for a very long time I should have done that first. You also have the sub-harness that others were mentioning. Those connections are critical temp wise where the ECU determines the richness. Replaced that harness as well although you can fabricate that yourself as well. All this will give you a peace of mind moving forward. I wish you luck.

The EFI harness will throw the ECU into scramble mode lack of a better term. Have you rebuilt your harness from top to bottom? If not I highly recommend it. That was my saving grace. Labor intensive including soldering each connection. Not expensive but will take a major variable out of the issue. My two cents. It’s an old girl and wiring connections are critical.

I struggled with my 78 280z for quite awhile on vacuum issues. @Dave WM A known test for pretty much being sure you don’t have any leaks is while at idle loosen the oil cap and slowly remove it. The engine should sputter and begin to stall.

Not the AFM. IMO

@SteveJ

@Mike Help @Madkaw get his identity back in order!! 😄

The aftermarket pumps are used from what I’ve read here. My 2 cents are to go back with what the factory designed for the system. You stated earlier you only focused on the hoses themselves. Chances are as @zedhead mentioned it could be a coincidence. I recommend buying a roll of fuel line and run the gauge through the window and monitor as you drive. Either way you will accomplish the test result with an answer and you can reuse the hose elsewhere.

TPS is very simple to check with a meter

None on the 1/78 280.

Call Max at Resurected Classics and he can answer that for you.

Once again I’ll throw my 2cents in. Are we ready to rule out ignition at this point?

What pump are you using? Factory or aftermarket?

You mentioned pump and damper replacements. What did you install. Factory pumps are available very expensive. Dampner nla.

There is a hole in the frame where the hose is routed. Don’t have a pic at the moment but it’s easy to see.