Yarb

Packaging, Don’t know if ZCD will bend it in half. Classic tube didn’t on mine. Your call

ZCD has the slave line bracket that you can drill and rivet to the inner fender well. From experience, Ask me how I know! Run the line first. Tie every thing in then mark it.

I can tell you first hand it’s a nite and day difference all the way around as far as power and driving experience when you swap it over to a manual transmission. Not trying to talk you into it of course 😂😂😂

Trust me it won’t fit. Order one from Classic tube.

Remove the tach

You also will not have the metal stantion welded to the firewall with the rubber bumper attached for the clutch pedal.

Remove the tach pull it out and reach through the whole. A lot of work without testing the harness wiring IMO.

According to how far you’ve got to submerse it I would think

Are you turning the car over when you’re testing for spark?

Have you read the electrical section in the FSM? There aren’t simple answers for a car that hasn’t run in a very long time. You have to get educated with the system and follow the trouble shooting listed in the FSM. It can be numerous issues contributing to this. According to the experience level makes a huge difference. A test light isn’t the the answer alone. Grab an DVM and start taking ohm and voltage measurements per the FSM. Make notes as you go to eliminate possible defects etc. Step by Step it’s a very simple ignition system.

Did you test it with jumper Leeds straight from the battery?

That plate was there on my 78 before I made the conversion. Definitely for the automatic shifter mounts. You have to modify the shifter with a torch. Not sure why they didn’t cut off the flap instead of folding it over.

There are posts available here on the forum that are larger. Hopefully someone will chime in and point you in that direction. There is no easy fix if you can’t bug it out with a meter.

When is the last time the car actually ran. From the pics it looks like it was a very long time ago. Give us some history first please. Thanks

Did you happen to follow my suggestion on checking the harness with a meter along with the schematic?

Totally different circuit iirc. Get out the FSM and do some research to follow the wiring diagram.

Something in the head light switch itself most likely.

Well that stinks!!

Just have to pull the tach and reach through the dash to change the bulb. Are you certain you have a bad bulb?

You have a loose connection or cold solder joint that needs to be addressed. Did you say in an earlier post that the switches had been refreshed?

@Terrapin Z

Sorry about that. I totally didn’t put two and two together.

@Jeff Berk, Are you trying to do something that’s not Stock? If so I totally understand. If not why not go to the local Nissan dealer with a p/n from CarParts Manual and order what you need. Forgive me here if I missed something.

Probably has them made to order. Not sure it’s a fast moving item.

Had one years ago. Switch mounted on the turn signal lever. Turned out to be a real mess. A lot of drilling and really ruined the look of the engine bay. Not to mention the model I had worked off the drive shaft and a lot of drilling into the body. I regret installing mine personally. It’s all been removed during the restoration. A lot of spot welds to fill holes.