Yarb

If you have a rear sway bar, install it after the shaft. Much easier to get to the diff bolts.

@Mike

I used my driveshaft on my conversion and the car was originally an automatic.

On the high idle, look for vacuum leaks coming into the system. Grab a can of carburetor cleaner or starting fluid and spot spray around vacuum areas. You will know when you find it. Keep moving forward, doing a great job.

@Seppi72 is using the JDM competition fuel rail. Factory Datsun competition rail with the same single barbed ends. Single line triple output. No return line.

Old School Universal techniques Everywhere!!

@Seppi72, My OER setup came the same way with an option documented that various configurations are available and what I received was the generic setup. Ideally dead heading with a fuel return at the regulator is most popular from my research. Pressure adj. is critical on OER. Not sure what Webber recommends. My two cents

Curious, What are you installing?

Curious how you’re going to get the directional angle correct if you install threaded elbows. Don’t know if that was a series of reasons to go the banjo route other than ease of installation.

You might just want to sit tight and see what’s happening once you fire it up. You are using the fpr which will regulate where you want to be.

All you need is anaerobic gasket maker. Permatex 51813. Coat both sides of the gasket and you’re good to go. Remember that seal goes in from the back side of the plate.

My OER banjo fittings have copper washers from the factory. Replacement p/n shows the same. .

Your car, do what makes you happy.

No difference as long as they are firmly set into the coil.

I removed a couple of them old school style. No issues. There are a number of other seals that are still available from Nissan. Mainly the shifter shaft seal. Also the detent shift ball bearings and speedometer cog seal. All available through Nissan.

Call Pertronix

Those look like the same NGK wires people have been running for years. You can buy them from AMZ

You can give it a try, That’s a lot of work to risk brake fluid on the new shoes. Personally If it’s feasible, replace both cylinders.

That was amazing

I’m really beginning to like the hood hinges being plated and not painted. Chime in Guys.

Another trick I learned from the booster rebuilder was… booster laying on its back, set the rod along with disc in position. Wrap a rubber band around the studs and rod to hold it in place. Mount the booster. Remove the band and mount the MC.

It’s a round disk. Unfortunately the only way to find out is to remove the booster. Probably find it in the bottom of the booster. Ask me how I know🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

@nowak1981 Search reaction disc threads on this site and you will understand what @Terrapin Z means. Very common problem. Has a direct correlation with the problem you’re experiencing.

You want to hear them scraping when you rotate the wheel. Should have to tug on them a bit

Do you have the rear shoes adjusted to where there just scraping the drum? That will reduce pedal travel.