Yarb

Yes Sir. I notified ZCD with the diagram and notes to pass along/add to the sales post when purchasing the plate to help others. Guess it didn’t make the press!

Here’s a new one from Cardone. Bought one... good quality for the money.

Good deal!

Here is a post that Captain Obvious contributed that fixed my same issue. I plugged both holes although only one is necessary with tapered rubber plugs from Ace hardware. Covered each with high temp silicone. These can be removed if necessary if needed. Here’s the diagram. Thanks CO!!

Does it have the OE pump installed?

Have you thought about using the 15/16 Mc off the 79zx? I upgraded to the 79 booster and master cylinder on my 78. Bolted right in with clearance. The booster is the same depth but larger in diameter. Haven’t had the car on the road yet but what I’ve read it performs well.

I used these folks. They were easy to work with. You can send them your unit to rebuild or buy theirs and send in a your core. They will also powder coat the booster if you like. Mine came back with a nice primer coat ready for paint. Very reasonable. Little over $100 a few months ago. North Power Brake Exchange, Inc. - San Jose, Ca. Phone: (408) 292-1305 Fax: (408) 294-6817 South Power Brake Exchange, Inc. - Bell Gardens, Ca. Phone: (562) 806-6661 Fax: (562) 806-3570

Nice work!

I’ve used that 13/64 bit quite a few times with good results. As you mentioned centering the bit is key.

CO, Is the tap size Ilisted correct?

Did you give the Kroil oil a shot? If that didn’t work for me I ended up drilling it out and re- tapping the hole. Irwin 6mm - 1.00 plug tap 5mm bit Could not locate a 5mm so I used a 13/64 5,2mm

Here’s a diagram CO provided when I had a problem after blocking off the bcdd. Plugged the orifice and solved the high idle problem.

CO, those look like the electric mirrors off of a ZX and the joy stick controls.

Bought the AcDelco from RA. Absolute garbage. The one in the picture looks much better than what I received.

I had one years ago. Put a kirker header on it re-jetted the carbs. Z1 Rocket

Mark, are you talking about the 8001 sealant? We used to call that “Yellow death” in the machine shop. It’s nasty.....

Pick up some Kroil penetrating oil from Amazon. I’ve tried many different products and have had the best luck with this product. https://smile.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4

Mr. envy’s, when you say early 77 model do you have a ballast resistor in your ignition circuit?

Same here

Did you have a chance to get your bumpers mounted?

There are three areas you can check. The FSM has the diagnostic checks for the fuel pump circuit. Involves the afm, oil pressure switch and alternator. Chances are when the engine bay was refurbished there is an open circuit at one of those areas. The FSM will lead you through the diagnostics.

Might be jumping in late. My new ZCD ohms out at 1.8k. The original, I have no idea if it worked when removed measures open so that’s not a lot of help in comparison other than comparing it to Dr. Dave’s ZCD replacement.

I’ll measure it tomorrow when I get back to the shop. I’ll measure my replacement from ZCD as well.

Ok, hope this helps. I have both the original and a new ZCD unit on my bench. Removed the original and had the tank cleaned. original unit has 4 holes on the side. Two right below the clamp and two more near the bottom both on opposite sides. The one from ZCD only has three holes on the bottom and a narrow slot on the top for the wiring. Here’s a video of my original 78 unit. Excuse the shaky hand. 208E908D-5F22-4E3F-A2E6-2CF4BDF29EAD.MOV

Hey Zed, Ken’s transmission conversion came from my 78 280. I am doing the manual conversion on mine. I provided everything for his conversion directly off of my car. The trans package was a complete set.