Muzez

Hi @Datsun rescue interested. I will PM you. Based in Chicago though so shipping might be a non-starter. @cgsheen1 got the same feedback on Pinkerton. Painter called about 5 local distis. Pinkerton stopped producing these windshields for COVID and either have not yet resumed because they are low production, or they fell off the roadmap due to the system issue you mentioned. Either way, no one could find in the Midwest has stock or has been able to get it since 2020. @Route66 will check this out @cgsheen1 @zKars& @grannyknot good recommendations in case I do this again one day. TY!

Painter's feedback pre removal was that glass gets brittle over time and "We are going to try to remove it, but given the age and a small chip its likely it may break. I will not warranty the glass so its up to you if you want to do it yourself or have us do it." It came out smoothly but didn't go back in as well. He is going to comp the labor for removal and install, but I am covering the materials.

Hi Guys, 1977 280z. Paint shop broke my windshield on the reinstall so I am searching for a replacement. Where do you guys normally get your replacement glass from? A saw that Zstore has one for ~$500 delivered, ZCar has a Polycarbonate option for a little more, and JDM does a local pick up option for around $400 but CA only. Is that normal? And are there other places to look? Painter mentioned that he had some local distributors he is going to get some quotes from, but that he was skeptical. https://www.thezstore.com/product/4901/oem-quality-tinted-windshield-70-78-240z-260z-280z-coupe https://www.ebay.com/itm/304775098526?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=304775098526&targetid=1645685073768&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9016897&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073768&abcId=9312979&merchantid=8504304&gclid=CjwKCAjw-7OlBhB8EiwAnoOEk2I8kCJA54WyqrCDgYvSIV9xPVDLgj9dsemgRM8NPNfh84dU-q6qnRoCYAcQAvD_BwE

Guy came back with a range of $3-5k so I am going to call a few machine shops over the next couple of weeks. May need to lean on you guys the next couple of months in diagnosing what I am seeing. Kinda excited to try this myself. But also immensely nervous haha. But first step in removing the EGR pipe. That's the project for this weekend. Got my map gas and a 24mm wrench so now its time for some heating and hollering. Does anyone know, can you get replacement pipes for the EGR system if I end up needing to cut it?

Thanks guys. That was my gut feel too. Will take a look first. May need your help deciphering what I am looking at first. Any tips on getting the EGR connector from exhaust to intake disconnected? Been dosing with CRC Freeze off and penetrating oil for a week. Tried heat but will try again. Is it possible to buy a new pipe if I need to cut it?

Quick update and a question Good News! Car has finally gone out for paint after 2 years of delays from the first shop I was trying to work with. Feels great to have some progress and to have the garage clear to work on the engine. While I have the engine out, I wanted to do a little clean up on it so I started disassembly this week. Need to fix a snapped exhaust stud (damn #6) and 2 other broken bolts. While I have it out, I was thinking about having the head gasket replaced because I have a little oil leakage from the front of the head. Compression is still good, but more of some preventative medicine. Advice question: I reached out to a local Z mechanic for machinist recommendations of a me. He mentioned that since the engine is out, it should get a rebuild or at least at minimum complete disassembly for inspection, proactive bearings replacement, a few other things. I was kind of surprised given the car ran well and has only ~40k miles. Does that make sense for you guys? I trust this guy, but I am new to all this and don't know what is considered normal maintenance on an almost 50 year old car. Hes prepping a quote but I am worried it is going to be big$ @Zed Head @siteunseen @EuroDat @wheee!

@Patcon when you are done and an expert, come up to Chicago! I got a z that could use some love and can arrange for unlimited beer of your preference. 🙂 Seriously, coming together nicely!

The hypothesis we had when messing around with it was that it might be to keep dirt/grime out of the bushing/bushing holder that is behind it. Mine came with on on RHS too.

You know me Zed, I love to know the "Why".

Any idea the. Pros/cons of that option? I get a little clunking from my diff and would love to reduce it, though I would be a little worried about vibration coming into the chassis.

Thanks Steve! You are a hero. Had the the same idea with the snap ring pliers, just haven’t been able to find my set haha. Will give another look tomorrow morning and if I can’t find them, I will try the needle nose again.

Exactly, thanks Dan. I tried using the screwdriver but no luck. Do I need to do screw drivers on either side? Is there a tool I can buy that makes it easier?

So sorry, had it uploaded but must have deleted it. Blue one at the center of the screen

Anyone have any advice on how to get this blue connector out from the passenger side wiring harness holder? I have been working on this for 20 minutes or so but I can’t get it out. I tried using a set of needle noise plyers to get play in the plastic, but it’s pretty rigid. Pretty sure I am going to destroy it getting it out. Any advice? Is there a tool for this?? -muze

Hey Guys, Got most of the wiring undone in the engine bay and am almost ready to send this thing off to paint. Two questions: 1. What is the best way to get this harness through the firewall? Or is it easier to pull the connectors in the cabin through the other way? Haven’t started trying to take the old rubber seals off yet because I am sure they are going to disintegrate the moment I do. Also, do they make replacements for these or is there a good substitute? 2. Any idea what this vacuum line goes to? And can I remove it and reinstall it from here? Or will it require removing the dash to reinstall?

Sorry for the delay in response guys, baby was sick for a couple of days. This is perfect. Will let you know how it goes this week!

Hi Guys, Stripping my 280Z to send it out for paint. Last thing on my list is removing the brake lines and brake booster from the engine bay. Two quick questions: 1. Are there any any issues with storing brake lines empty for 6-8 months? If yes, is there a way to remove the engine bay lines and cap downstream? If no, is the best way to drain to open a bleeder on one of the wheels and then pump the brakes till dry?

I do like a good snuggle. But I imagine my wife might be a little frustrated sharing the bed with something else and its been a while since I slept on the floor. 😛 Its pretty clean now but I will probably deploy the hair dryer method. Worse case the shop I occasionally work out of has a few barrels of barrels of Iso for parts washing, so maybe I can grab a gallon when I'm there next.

@Zed Head yeah, I haven't yet run into any overheating issues (knock on wood). Was going to take my gas tank to a rad shop and get a quote on the recoat so I can take the radiator at the same time. For cleaning it out, I think I remember someone mentioning to rinse it with isopropyl alcohol to dry up any remaining water and then cap it. Does that sound right?

I still have the original fan and fan shroud which I was planning to put back on, but now that I need to replace the radiator, I am open to other options. Would the alternative be to switch to electrical fans? Or is a shroud not necessary with the copper/brass setup?

So I was putting my parts in storage to make space for breaking down the engine and I found some previously repaired damage to the radiator that I didn't see before. There wasnt any visible igns of leaking or rust when I pulled it or in the coolant, but it looks pretty rough. Three questions: 1. This thing is junk right? 2. Assuming it is junk, anyone have a recommendation for a drop in replacement? Saw there are a few 3 rows from champion and mishimoto that don't look too crazy assuming they don't require fab to mount. 3. In the very unlikely chance that it is not junk, should I fill it with something for storage?

Bought and shipped! Thanks for the recommendation. I don't have to be worried about my dad being Whizzed. He's an engineer and understands the theory of engine design, but chose to focus his mechanical knowledge elsewhere. Whenever I talk about my car, he always asks "Have you sold it yet?" My biggest complaint with the Haynes stuff is its not always well organized and misses important stuff. I mostly use it to fill in when the service manual doesn't cover a topic. I am sure I will have a thousand questions but you guys are always good at answering and being there. Saved by bacon when I yolo lifted my engine a few weeks ago. 😛

Mainly because this will be my first time doing it and I am a little terrified that I would c&%k it up. 😛 Mostly worried about snapping the head bolts and resetting the timing correctly and just generally getting beyond my abilities. Bad reason since I set off on this whole journey to learn. Good point though on the cleaning and checking the internals. I will do it. Will start disassembly in a week or so.

Well. Engine and Transmission are out and I am almost healed from a minor surgery so I am ready to get back out to the garage. Next thing is checking for oil leaks. Trying to decide if I should be replacing the head gasket. Included some photos below. If anyone has any advice, let me know! The sides of the engine block don't seem to be too oily except under the #3 spark plug. There is a little buildup around the plug itself which makes me think it wasn't torqued down well at some point. The major area of oil buildup is where the front of the head meets the timing chain cover. There is sealant around the water pump to suggest that someone replaced it in the past. None of the compression numbers were off when I tested but they were a little lower than I would like. It was my first time testing though so it is possible I messed it up (can't remember if it tested hot or cold). 155 PSI 159 PSI 163 PSI 162 PSI 157 PSI 160 PSI Also, what is this mounting point for on the front right hand side of the engine above the alternator ? For more on the engine / trans removal, there are photos here.

Thanks @Patcon & @Jeff G 78! You are life savers.