Muzez

Thanks @SteveJ. I didn’t see a bolt in the pedal or on the floor, but it might have shot out when the rubber part failed. But I can find a new bolt.

@Patcon good call, it was the little rubber stopper on the brake pedal that engages with theswitch. It disintegrated. Put a shim in it until I can get a new one. Not sure what they are called though lol.

Trying now

I have tried the light (r), light (l), hazard, and park, tail estac fuses, but no luck getting it to turn off

Hi Guys, 1977 280z. Just got back from a drive and I can’t get the rear tail lights to turn off even when the car is off and the key is out. The headlights and side markers turn on and off as expected, just the tail lights are having an issue. Not sure what fuse this is linked to, but I tried pulling a few to see if I can turn it off to no avail. 1. Any idea what fuse tail lights are linked to so I can at least get them off so they are not running down the battery? 2. Any advice on where to start with troubleshooting?

Will give this a try and report back. I think I have a spare fuel filter in the garage I can plug in to test that part asap.

The turning left thing is a real deal haha. Had that experience recently turning on an decline. Love the redundancy of carrying multiple pumps; its clear this is not your first rodeo on a long distance road trip disaster. I can check out the tank this winter when I drop the tank to remove the bumpers but I can see on the drain that someone already re-sealed it once with that red stuff. Do you have a recommendation for the pre-filter? and do you still have the OE mounting? Or did you opt for the revised version that I see on some of the builds (not sure who makes it or if it is custom)? How do you check if there is rust in the hard lines?

Thanks Zed. I will give than I try tonight. I am expecting there is a confluence of factors at play here since I think there is also a slow leak somewhere in the system. I did a compression test last night. At the start of the test after sitting idle for about a week or two, the inline gauge was reading at 10PSI but jumped back up to ~35PSI at the conclusion of the test. Just checked in a few minutes ago and its back down to 25psi again.

Without inflaming the internet in anger and despair, is there a substantial benefit to the OE fuel pump that is worth dumping this one to go back to stock?

Thanks Dave! Good to know this is closer to expected pressure. And apologies for the laziness in not reviewing my copy of the FSM. In Chicago, antique license plates only allow you to drive through 10/31 so I was outsourcing the research to you guys to maximize my remaining days of drive time when I am out of work today 😛 Not sure if it has the OEM fuel pump, this is the one that came with the car when I bought it. My assumption is that it is not factory though given that this was one of the truly shiny things on the car when I bought it. 😛 Chaos reins lol. Does it run well without it? I wouldn’t mind cleaning up the shitty plumbing from the PO if possible.

77 280z. Apologies for the crusty picture. Is the circled object at the top of the screen a damper or a regulator? And if its a damper, is it adjustable? Struggling with fuel pressure. I have an in-line gauge installed after the fuel filter. When the car is running, fuel is only at ~25PSI (compared to 34-36PSI expected). I took apart this whole section to remove some of the rust and replace the hoses, but I can't remember if I messed with the bolt on the top of the damper (and if it matters).

@siteunseen & @jfa.series1 very helpful! Thanks guys!

Thanks for all the inspiration guys! This is great. So much good food for thought, I ran out of likes for the day. Will post back here once it is purchased and installed. @cgsheen1 I asked for feedback, thanks for being honest! @EuroDat & @SoCalJim thanks for the before / after. @Av8ferg love the lime green one with the eurolights, never seen that config before. Sorry to hear about your nightmare getting your front-end shipped. Is Xenon at least shipping you a new one? Or waiting to find out?

@jfa.series1 did you have to do any adjustments to get them to fit? Or right out of the box? And have you had any of the issues with scratching that other users mentioned? @dutchzcarguy cool, will PM you.

Converting my 280z to the 240z bumpers, but trying to keep some of the original style of the car. I love this version of the car from Ryan Labrosse out of Canada who kept the 280z stock lower valence, but his car is one of the few examples I have seen like this. Does anyone else have this style setup? (if yes, pictures please) If you do have this style, would you do it again? Pros/cons? If not, any reasons to not go with this style? https://www.instagram.com/ryanlabrosse/

Hi Guys! Getting ready to start fitting my Z with 240z bumpers, but having some issues with supply for Chrome reproduction 240z bumpers. Not sure if the delay is pandemic related, or if the producers have gone out of business but it is pretty impossible to find aftermarket bumpers ATM. Two questions Are there any providers who have better fit than others? (or providers to avoid) Are there any providers not on the list below that you would recommend? Current Stock Situation: MSA - Out of stock, no ETA Datsun Garage - Out of Stock, 12/21 ETA but has been pushed back since July Whitehead - Out of stock, SS only Furtofab - Out of Stock, no ETA Z Car Depot - Fronts available, no rears Preference is for chrome because I have heard the SS stuff scratches and is hard to polish but open to your advice here.

If only you were on this side of the pond, I have a few that don't get nearly enough use. Thanks again!

@AK260 brilliant! As long as it is not going to impact that delicious delicious torque curve, that is what I am interested in. Thanks much for the explanation on scavenging. Watched a few videos on YouTube which had me spinning!

Hi Guys, Need a little help understanding scavenging and the impact of changing pipe size through an exhaust setup. Is there a negative or positive impact to reducing exhaust pipe diameter after a header collector? Context: I have a stock 1977 280z with L28 and no modifications. I will be installing a new exhaust later this year. I have an MSA 6-1 which features a 2.5" collector and am planning on buying a Zstory muffer which also features a 2.5" inlet. I read on the forums that for an unmodified setup, the 2" or 2.25" setup is ideal for torque due to scavenging/velocity and that 2.5" may have a positive impact on high RPM HP, but at the expense of my wonderful low end torque. If I dropped down to a 2" or 2.25" pipe immediately after the header collector and ran that back to the muffler, would that provide the scavenging required to maintain torque for an unmodified engine? Or would that negatively impact exhaust velocity and therefore is a bad idea?

@AK260 Amazing work! Solved a problem I have been facing for a while with understanding Sean's offering and the different options. Thanks much! If you still have the mufflers and can get an exterior mount, it would be cool to hear what all three of these sound like from outside of the car too while driving.

Going to check out out this week. Is there anything to look out for with regards to the center gearing where the hub connects to the steering wheel? Or with the electrical for the horn?

@Wally There is a guy on Facebook that offers this as a service. Its not cheap, but the photos look good. Links below. https://www.facebook.com/Datsun-240Z-Steering-Wheels-100916391333259/ @Patcon @Captain Obvious Are there any common challenges or problem spots to look out for when refinishing? And does this faux wood refinish like real wood? Looking for a used wheel to put on my 280z, but 100% of the wheels I see up for sale need some TLC.

Hi guys! What is the size of the hose from the fuel tank to the fuel pump on a 1977 280z? The fuel line got a small tear and I decided to replace it. I read on the forum that this line is a 12mm line rather than the normal 5/16, but the 12mm line doesn’t fit. The hose is somewhat snug on the fuel pump, but is very loose on the gas tank outlet and I can’t fit the hose through the cutout in the bulkhead. Thoughts?

The shop is in North Carolina. Came highly recommended by a friend in the Z community up here in Chicago who was driving down to do rebuilds on a few transmissions for his 240z and 510. I believe the owner of the shop is a retired race Z builder. I can ask my friend who made the connection if the shop is taking more work, or if this was a personal favor. You looking for a rebuild @Patcon?

Quick update for this topic! Sent the trans out to a Z specialist in the Carolinas for inspection and rebuild. Main bearing was shot, but otherwise everything else was in ideal condition. Posting some before /after pictures for our mutual gratification. Before: Missing a few: After: