Muzez

@Zed Head I always learn new things from you. Always assumed R200 was synonymous with 3.9. Didn't realize that the diff internals would be different based on 280z/280zx. Thanks! Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

How different are the late 1977-78 5 speed transmissions vs the ZX 5 speed transmission when paired with the R200?

@siteunseen Good suggestion. I pulled the shifter before I left and it looks like there isn’t any damage. It’s actually less grimy than the shifter currently installed on the 280z 5 speed that I had planned to rebuild this winter so I grabbed it haha. (Photos below) Will pick up the ZX trans this weekend. @Zed Head the boot and center console were already missing so I could see the shifter area though I didn’t check to see if anything was blocking the shifter. It felt like I couldn’t find reverse. Where I should be able to push right and down, I couldn’t feel the slot. When I would push over from 5th to R, it would slide back into 4th.

Found a local 280zx 5 speed trans out of a 1980 NA 280zx. Trans moves pretty easily through 1 to 5, but I can't get it into reverse. Still installed in car, but car is not operational so I can't test it. Owner has no history, picked it up as a parts car. Is there any safety device in the older Zs which would prevent the car from going into reverse like a collar or a sensor? Worth buying to rebuild knowing that reverse is currently not functioning or best to run away? Price is $100.

@cgsheen1 thanks! And good catch. Will check it out this week but aftermarket sound easier and cheaper long term

Thanks @grannyknot it was this thread that originally triggers my thought but I figured with citric acid being an aqueous solution, it would be hard to use outside of a controlled environment like a container. No? Also good call on the sanding disks. Also, thanks @siteunseen for the recommendation!

Thanks for the detail @Zed Head! Good to know. I have only been under the valve cover of a new engine which had not seen oil, So when I popped this today, there was a moment of panic haha. Any recommendations for a detergent oil with enough zinc content for an L series? Was using a Rotella with zinc additive at the recommendation of some local Z enthusiasts, but I also see Redline and Mobile 1 are recommended around here. Car is a 1977, so we should be good there. And good hint on the signature. I thought I added it a few weeks ago by populating the "my car" section but now I found the signature prompt buried in a menu haha. Will take a look tomorrow. Fighting the Thanksgiving Turkey nap at the moment haha.

Hi Guys. Pulled my Valve cover today to adjust the valve lash and noticed that there is a lot of burnt oil on the value train. Is this normal? Or a sign of overheating? I have only had the car for about a year and a half. It’s had two oil changes in that time over about 400 miles of total driving distance so I don’t think it is due to my care, but no idea about the P.O. I haven’t seen it overheating in the time that I have had it. I do drive a mostly in the city which may have some impact. If it’s not a big deal, will just clean it up with some acetone and go about my adjustment. If you guys have any suggestions for things to check, let me know!

Getting setup for some winter projects for my 1977 280z including a deep clean on the engine bay since the last owner left a lot of grease build up and cosmoline. I have a number of places, usually near welds and seams, where I have small pockets of surface rust like shown in the picture (usual Datsun rust issues 😕 ) . Anyone have any advice for the best way to remove this and stop it from coming back? I am planning to repaint the car between 2021 and 2022 which will include engine bay paint, but want to at least stop the progress of the rust between now and when I can give it a more thorough blasting. I have used naval jelly before on parts outside of the vehicle, but not sure if that is the best approach here since there is a lot of intact paint I would prefer not to disturb before repainting.

Does surface rusting restart once it is out of the solution? Or the chelating removes all of the rust particles and as long as the part is dry between removal and plating, it won't start to rust?

I have seen some people mention in this forum that they have installed larger than OE condensers to help improve cooling performance, but I would assume that an oversized condenser would increase the strain on the compressor (hence the recommendation for close to OE size). Am I understanding correctly? Disclaimer: Little to no knowledge of AC system operations, so apologies for dumb questions

I have a 1977 280z with Factory Installed AC. My condenser has 4-5 leaking points, but the rest of the system seems sound (to be tested). My local junkyard has 2 280zx. I was thinking about heading down and seeing if either have AC units, but wanted to check if there is compatibility between these systems or if it is better just to buy an aftermarket condenser? Thanks in advance!

Thanks Zed! Good to know it's the right way haha Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

Yeah, I have an orange paint pen for this. Marked the rear ones, but couldn't see if i had marked the front ones because of the sway bar. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

@AK260 Checked the front diff mount, but it was basically new (at least in appearance) so I kept looking. Traced back the issue and have found the source of my noise. I installed new poly bushings and had tightened my control arm bushing retainer bolts, but had not torqued them because the service manual recommends doing it on the ground. Long story short, forgot to torque the inside ones before my test drive so there was a little play. Torqued them to 105 ft/lbs and its cut down the nose significantly.

QQ: For the Differential Skid Plate / Weight that attaches to the Front Differential mount, does the thicker end on the left hand side of the photo face rear-ward or forward. I have it oriented with the left hand side facing rear-ward, but I am getting a little clunking when shifting.

Issue resolved. Ended up having to retap it. But I now have working brakes. Thank you everyone for your help!!!!

More bulge than this right? Or just past the washer is enough.

@iscnetwork Planning to give her a bath tonight since she is covered in dust from sitting all year, so more photos to come tonight. In the meantime, something to get your started.

@Zed Head, @Patcon, @iscnetwork IT LIVESSSSSSS!!!!!! Put the starter it back on the car and jumped the car from the starter and that got it to turn over. Not sure why that did it. I can now start it using the key and battery. Maybe it just needed a little extra juice to break it loose the first time? Or the process worked loose some corrosion that I wasn't able to see. Either way, its running!

Replaced the terminals last night since the terminals were pretty scuzzy and @wheee! tempted me with some attractive clear terminals. Was not an issue. Good advice, will check tonight. Out of curiosity, in 5th gear because it has lower torque? Will try this tonight. The transmission is definitely in neutral, I am able to spin the rear wheels freely. Maybe I can try jumping the starter directly and take the battery & battery wires out of the equation? Looping back to the fuel system; I am assuming that with this old of a car, it is not smart enough to detect low fuel pressure and deactivate the starter correct? That's the only other major thing I changed in this system.

Love the paint color you went with. Can you share what you used? Looks so much cleaner than mine!

@Zed Head Solenoid clicks when I bride the terminals. It also clicks when I move the key to the start position (when the starter was installed). I heard the click and didn't know what it was until I brided it last night. Also, QQ. Since this car has only been sitting for a few months, my hope is that if this is a corrosion issue, it is not bad a bad one. Is there a risk to just putting the car in gear and lightly pushing without having added the penetrating oil to see if its just lightly stuck? Just changed the oil and filter 3 days ago, so would love to not dump all of that good oil. But completely understand adding the penetrating oil if there is any risk to the engine whatsoever. .

Quick Update. No damaged wires under the dash. Tested the starter on and off the car. Starter works fine on the bench, but doesn’t turn the car over when I bridge with a screw driver. Tested the battery to starter connection and it is fine, as is the battery charge. This makes me think the issue is the engine is siezed.

Haven't gotten past page 3 on your post. Did you get yours running? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk