Muzez

Yeah, that was my thought too. The 86lbs in weight reduction from dropping those bumpers might raise it up even higher. Starting to wonder if maybe the PO put springs from another car in. Taking apart the struts this weekend, will take a look and measure the springs

Not sure if you are still in Chicago @pakzbut I am up on Northside. Happy to share tools and swap swap stories once this Covid thing is done.

@SoCalJim been pulling together a listing of some of the options that are available. Will be adding to it over the next could of days. Will try to add more about ride quality, but its pretty subjective based on the driver. One that seems to get a lot of play if you are looking for a street setup are the MSA Eibachs. A few guys around the forum have recommended those to me as well as looking into swapping to the 240z isolators. I have the impression that my 280z runs high where 1 inch would not be enough. But that might just be in my head haha. I would love to get something like this setup. I love the lines on this photo, but I can't imagine that this guy doesn't rub all time in an urban environment. @Zed Head Yeah, I looked around for backup info on those shocks around the forums and their website, but couldn't find anything. Maybe they forgot to upload it?

Thanks @Zed Head! Yeah, 2" seems like a more sizeable drop which is why I was curious. Little worried about it bottoming out on speed bumps and the like. My car is still on 14s, so my wheel gap is significantly larger than the fantastic photo you posted above. But rims/tires are in the budget for the near term once my suspension is sorted out.

Has anyone tried the 2" lowering springs from Z Car Depot? Haven't been able to find any reviews for this product, but was considering the product for the additional 1" drop for my 280z since I will be taking the bumpers off later this year. https://zcardepot.com/products/coil-spring-set-stock-and-lowered-240z-260z-280z?variant=21397321449585&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwqJ_1BRBZEiwAv73uwHJmvt2Fqij6TJ1LuWyun2gwVYBJrjdV7AgPyqEAad1in6ueJQ8-YxoCiPMQAvD_BwE

Hi Guys! Have been looking for a way to give back to this amazing community and was doing research on replacement spring/strut options. Figured I would share out my research since this landscape has changed over the years. This will cover currently available drop-in struts and springs. If you are looking for Coilover Kits, see @AlbatrossCafe's fantastic post here. Please feel free to post options that I have missed or additional data points you want to see. Disclaimer: I will be updating this over the next couple days, so there will be some "To Be Determined (TBD)" placeholders until I can fill it in. Strut Options Brand Model Availability Price (USD, No tax) Ride Characteristics Review KYB Excel-G In-Stock $30-40 ea Stock (3) Searching Koni Sport (Yellow) Out of Stock, More in May. MSA Only. $145 ea Adjustable Review Koni Classic (Red) In-Stock $215 ea Adjustable? Searching Stagg TBD In-Stock (Ebay Only?) $23 ea Firm Review Tokico HP No Longer Available $90-110 ea Firm (4) N/A Tokico Illumina No Longer Available N/A Adjustable N/A Spring Options Brand Model Availability Price (USD, No tax) Ride Height Impact Type Review Eibach Sport In-Stock $235 (set) 1-1.5" Lowered Progressive Searching Vogtland TBD In-Stock (Ebay) $237 (set) 1-1.5" Lowered Linear Searching Z-Car Depot TBD In-Stock $215 (set) Stock or 2" Lowered Linear Searching Ride Characteristics: Very Soft Soft Stock Firm Very Firm Additional Reading https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2017-01-19/240z-the-ultimate-guide-to-factory-suspension-and-options/

Yeah, drag strip isn't on the horizon for what remains of this lady's 170hp. Trying to treat her gentle (at least until I have a better feel for her and have ironed out the rough edges) Thanks for the guidance!

Thanks @S30Driver! A friend recommended to get a pack of small cans because each time the cans are opened, POR-15 gets way harder to work with. At the time, it was on sale for $2 more than the equivalent Quart can, so I figured it was worth it (though I see that deal isn't going anymore). Wanted to get the Illuminas or HPs, but couldn't find Tokico anywhere. Saw on a forum they don't make them for Zs anymore? The KYB is definitely closer to my budget, but saw a few notes that the KYBs have some issues with lowered setups? Still researching, but would prefer $140 for KYBs over $560 for Koni if there is not a major difference in performance. Also, are you running poly or rubber? I saw this mentioned on the forums today. If it only drops the rear, does that not make the clearance unequal between front and rear wheels? And I had read that the Eibachs have specific Front/Rear springs for 280z. If I swap the rear isolators out, do I still take the Eibach springs for 280z? Or should I be switching to the 240z springs?

I have hopes of one day being as active of a poster as @wheee! and his amazing build. In the meantime, progressing slowly here in Chicago. Weather has finally got nice enough that I can start painting the rear suspension components. I had to switch from power coating to POR15 + top coat as the garage I normally work out of is closed due to COVID. The finish is turning out really well though, was pleasantly surprised. First coat pictured below, forgot to get a photo of the second coat before storing. Excited to be seeing progress though. Aiming for end of May to have everything back together. Also, realized that my rear shocks are blown while I was disassembling, so I am investigating replacements the system with a slight (1-2") lower. Debating between KYB/Koni and a set of Eibach Progressive Springs. Any other options that are worth considering? Going to look through the forum later today, but you guys always have good ideas. ?

Who is your fuel tank from?

Hey guys, Sorry for the delay in posting. Was heads down with all of the cleaning and powdercoating required to have the car ready to drive in April when my antique license plates come back into effect. Progress Report Rear of car has been completely disassembled All of the small frame pieces have been cleaned and powder coated. Prop shaft, drivers side rear hub and components are prepped and ready for paint when it warms up here Disassembling passenger side hub this week so I can prep it and the half-shafts Broke one of the bolts in the cross-member that connects the control arms, so I have to have someone tap it and reweld it which sucks. But lesson learned about heat over strength lol. Only bolt have broken thus far, so I feel good about it. General note: One thing that I found super cool. The prop shaft u-joints had a bunch of surface rust, but when they came out of the sand booth, all of the original factory text was visible. Picture below, super neat to seen. Was amazed how many factory paint markings from assembly were still visible under the undercoating layer. More to come soon!

Looks great! I didn't know I wanted these, but magically my project budget just expanded slightly lol

Okay, will return this one and get a new one. This one feels a little half baked. Thanks for all the responses guys!

Dang it man, where where you 2 days ago before I dumped Dino oil all over my floor. :p I had the same issue roading the 5 speed back from Detroit. The thing rolled over and dumped all over the back of my company truck. Luckily it was in a garbage bag, so it just smelled terrible but didn't hit the carpet. For #1, that is amazing to hear, was worried For #2, will do. Probably way easier while it is out.

Okay, I am back! And it has been a productive last couple of days. Propane torch and the jack worked great to break it loose and I was able to drain the differential of oil. I have now dropped the differential, mustache bar, cross members, drive shafts and a few other miscellaneous parts and pieces for clean up and powder coat prep. Few questions: 1. Is the propeller shaft different from the 4 speed to the 5 speed on the 77/78 280z? Saw a note of this on the Haynes manual related to 240z and 260z, but wanted to verify it was the same for 280zs as I was under the impression that the 5 speed was only an over drive gear. 2. I am new to restoration, is there anything I should be looking for or reconditioning on these drive shafts while they are out? (rubber, seals, grease points) and is there anything I should be wary of damaging when cleaning them up? 3. Is there a way to cap steel brake lines at the hub? Want to refinish the hubs, but trying to minimize how much brake fluid I waste as I just replaced it a few months ago. 4. How much play is considered acceptable for the input shaft from the transmission from the engine? See video below. It looks like there is roughly 1-2 mils if movement. IMG_2258.MOV

@CanTechZ & @cgsheen Thanks for the link. I have a copy of that one, but I heard there was some good info in Haynes and it was worth grabbing one as a back up. I might have an early year or something though because it only mentions 280z in a few places. See photos below. Either way. Will go back to using the FSM

Hi Guys, Ordered a used copy of the Haynes manual (ISBN 0856962066) but while it says it covers the 280z, the only 280z/L28 content is appended at the end in a ~30 page supplemental chapter. Does anyone have a new copy of the book and know if there is more detail om the 280z and/or better integration of 280z content?

Does the trim itself provide the pressure? Or is there a secondary like small (breakable) clips or adhesive?

Yikes. Was worried that was the case. How hard is the trim to take out?

@Zed Head Not out yet. Wife is a nervous traveler so I was getting ready for the flight and closing up the house. Thanks for the suggestion. Will give it a spin when I get home

Thanks guys! Ended up settling on the propane rather than Mapp because the wife can also use it for some kind of cooking activity she wants to try (Yay sweets + brownie points) and I am terrified of warping the aluminum lol. Going to be a little quiet on this thread for the next week as I am visiting the in-laws for the holidays. But I will post pictures of the transmission and differential clean up when I am back. Have 3 days slotted out to get dirty before the new year. In the meantime, I leave you guys with my next challenge. Need to start paint touch up and light rust removal. I have two spots under the door trim (pictured below) and a little rust inside the fuel door. I have never done any body work before, are there any good tutorials on this site that walk through best practices of body rust removal and paint matching? The paint was updated 10 years ago and while it's similar to the original silver paint, its slightly warmer (less blue). Trying to reach out to the original owner (Jason from Delaware, OH if he is on the forum) to see if he knows what paint they used. Touch up does not need to be perfect, but would love it not to be immediately noticeable. The car will eventually get a full repaint, but probably not next year so I want to get ahead of any rust spreading in the meantime. Happy Holidays Everyone!

Dumb question: is there a risk of stripping or snapping the plug with an impact gun? Snapped a cross member bolt last night which is why I ask lol.

Quick update, no photos as I am running to take the dog to an appointment. Took a half-day today and did some wrenching. First control arm is off, as is most of the cross member that connects the rear-most bushing on the control arms. Found that there was more surface rust on the differential than I would like, so I am going to drop the diff and refinish when I refinish the transmission. Fill and drain plugs are completely seized, so I am going to get some tube to act as a larger breaker.

Thanks as usual @grannyknot, appreciate it!

Quick update Picked up the transmission. I have next week off so I will start taking it apart to get a look at the internals, seal, and refinish the exterior before reinstall. Does anyone know if there if there is a risk to the transmission being empty of fluids for a few weeks? Also started removing the spindle pins. Used the stack of washer approach which was working really well, but then the threads on the end of the spindle pin started to strip out. Seems to be coming out very slowly with wide punch and a few wacks of the hammer. Any risks to hammering this thing out? And/or is there a better way to do this?