GTZZZ

VR = Voltage Regulator

The symptoms you are describing occur more often on carburated engines. Even though your car is fuel injected I think the black plugs are still telling you your car is running rich. Fuel mixture on fuel injected cars is constantly being adjusted by a computer. It changes the amount of fuel being delivered based on readings it receives from sensors on the engine going to the computer. My best guess would be a bad O2 sensor. This sensor is in the exhaust and when working correctly tells the computer what fuel mixture is burning in the combustion chamber based on the burn temperature. If it is not working correctly the computer is basing how much fuel to send into the engine on an incorrect reading and will supply the wrong amount of fuel, causing the engine to run rich or lean. If this is the problem changing the O2 sensor will fix it. It could still be something else, another sensor (airflow at intake), or a bad injectors (doubt all would go bad at same time) among other things. I would change the O2 sensor first, based on the symptoms it would be my best guess and is also a cheap place to start.

Sounds like your carbs are running a rich fuel to air mixture. Read these two threads. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8059 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8089

Measurements And Another And Another Backspacing

Paint striper is a step you can take, but I found a wire wheel on a ginder is the quickest way to remove bondo. It is very dusty so I would definitely use a dust mask. There are different wire wheel options, I found a welders stainless steel wire wheel works the best for paint and bondo removal.

Short block and long block are exactly the same except a long block comes with head/heads installed. Short blocks are assembled but don't include head/heads. Short blocks are popular in the hot rod V8 market because most people prefer to choose their own heads. Short blocks are cheaper because the don't include head/heads.

What makes you think you have oil on your spark plugs? If there is oil on your spark plugs you would be burning oil and your car would smoke. You said it doesn't smoke. If oil is on your spark plugs it's in your cumbustion chamber if your car is running well it is firing like it should. This would burn oil. Read my first reponse on this thread, about running to rich. A lot of repair manuals have spark plug diagnostic pictures with explanations as to what causes them to look the way they do. If your plugs are black and shiny and look like they have oil on them they probably don't It is probably carbon and gas. If you keep running it this way your plugs will start fouling and your performance will become very poor. Adjust your carbs.

I just turned 27, still have trouble buying booze. I went to a dealership just to look at one. I didn't think they would let me take it for a ride either. I didn't even have to ask, they just offered a test drive. Funny thing is they didn't even come with me. The problem I have now is I want one really bad.

This is the one I want.

If you didn't already know, this picture is from HS30-H gallery. I think this might be the car your talking about. Or this one. HS30-H has alot of great cars in his gallery.

If the plugs are black and wet looking it might not be oil on them. It could be carbon. This happens because your carbs are running to rich a mixture.

Not sure, I went back there and couldn't find it again.

When I was growing up my bedroom had carpet just like that.

I was trying to create a post with a picture of the 350Z engine in it that I have. I hit the preview post button and it said the picture was to large. It is a very detailed picture with a black background. I closed out the post screen and it was posted by mistake. I meant to resize the picture and post again but haven't been successful yet. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused, This is the first forum I have been a member at and haven't figured it all out yet.

I didn't mean for this to post. I couldn't get the picture to attach.

This would look great in my 71.

Is that red car a 240sx with a 240z nose? I'm not sure but the majority of that car is not a 240z. Maybe it's a 240zx.

I was going to suggest doing the same thing but wasn't sure about how much leakage would make it past the rings in a dry motor. If you turn it over consistantly on each test this would at least tell you if the cylinders were all consistant. Another option might be to turn it over with a strong impact gun. I haven't done this berfore, but it might work.

I've done research on this and think this set up will work. I want to be sure before I order though. 240z with ZG flares (from ClassicDatsun.com), stock suspension. 15x8 wheels front and rear with 4 inch backspacing. 245/50/15 Dunlop SP Sport 8000 front and rear. I will be cutting metal out of wheel well arches, the rears are a little rusty anyway. I would also like to lower the car a little, maybe an inch, by using stiffer and shorter springs. Rims can be machined for any bolt pattern, but only come with between 4 and 4.5 inch backspacing. Any help would be appreciated.

The first thing you need to do is either clean the plugs, buy new plugs or they will keep fouling. Which is why you have power problems. The problem is definitely with your carbs, their adjustments are out of sync. I would first make sure the chokes aren't stuck open. You check this by feeling directly on the bottom of the carbs. They should both be up if the choke is off. If one is stuck open don't force it shut. You need to loosen the cable first. Also check to see if you have the correct amount of oil in them. The next thing I would do is go to this attachment on tuning carbs. It is from Zhome.com. If you get stuck I can answer so specific questions, but is a very lenghty process explaining the procedure in type. Only takes about 10 minutes to complete the tune though. The best thing I ever did for myself in regards to tuning SU's was buy the video from Ztharapy. I would still be guessing about this stuff if it wasn't for that tape.su tune

I think WRC drivers are the ultimate performance drifters.

The only time I've been able to do a compression test with the engine out of a car was when the transmission and starter will still attached. I used a car charger/starter and turned the motor with the starter to perform the test. I don't know what you could do if you have just the engine alone on a stand. Maybe someone else here has a creative idea. Good Luck.

EricB, That makes a lot more sense. So I guess my question should be directed to both of you then. You for your wheel and tire specs, and sennavsprost for his suspension set up. Thank you for your previous answer about the ZG flares, they appear to fit very well and seem to be a higher quality then others I've seen. Is this a picture of both of your cars from your gallery?