Trnelson

I had the exact same symptoms and, based on advice from this group, tried the AC Delco synchromesh oil and it cleared up within just a few miles of driving. I was skeptical then amazed. Been driving it for two years now with no further issues. I also had a bad case of the monkey motion shifter. I took the pin out, ran a bolt through the hole (with the shifter removed) and put enough pressure to slightly squeeze the ears back together. It took a few repetitions squeezing and checking the fitment until I got it snug. Once I got it right I used the lock nut and bolt in place of the pin with some homemade plastic bushings. Probably have 9-10,000 miles on it with no issues with the oil or shifter.

High probability that the clunk is the rear differential insulator. The rubber separates from the bracket allowing the nose to move up under acceleration then it comes clunking down when you let off. It’s a fairly easy fix, install a new strap while you are at it.

I have been unfaithful for the last week and this has happened…

Did a 90 mile drive with the Highlands Mountain Motoring group. Met Some great folks and another Z junky!

I did that along with lapping the valves, a light port and polish, new valve seals, new valve springs etc. With everything that I did I can say yes that my oil consumption problem is gone, however it would be impossible to know what solved it. I honestly think I was leaking/ burning oil from a couple different places. The engine still ran pretty well but you could tell it was tired. Now it feels tighter, stronger and cleaner. (my wife will actually ride with me without a mask on so I got that going for me) I'm calling it a success for what I wanted to accomplish at the time. The next time I attempt a rebuild I will buy oversized pistons, rings etc and have the block bored out, crank inspected and ground if necessary. I just wanted to do everything I could on my own on this go around and keep the budget modest.

I apologize for digging up bones, particularly my own…. Just wanted to report that 2400 miles in she is running great! Starts easy, idles great, pulls to redline (to be honest I’ve only redlined a couple times). Compression is 160 to 165 across all 6, did a leak down test on #1 today and according to the gauge I’m well within acceptable leakage, I’m planning to test the rest this weekend but I feel confident that they will be close to #1 Looking forward to getting my Z Therapy carbs, hopefully next month, to seal off the last of the vacuum leaks around the throttle shafts. id like to thank you all for your input

Nice, hopefully early October, September can still be hotter than two cats f…… in a wool sock

Thanks for the replies, guess I’ll look for a locksmith or a pipe stretcher…. The new one works fine, it just doesn’t look as good.

The three pictures show the old key switch with and without the trim ring on it and a pic of the new switch installed. Naturally I failed to check for proper fitment prior to installation.

So my original key switch had a minor idiosyncrasy in that the key had to be in just the right spot in order for it to turn. I ordered a new assembly which seems to be of high quality and works as it should. However, the trim ring is too small by about 1.3mm, to fit around the new key switch. The car is a 71 and I’m not sure if the switch I have replaced was original or not. The new switch looks like crap without a trim ring around it and I don’t think I can live with it. Before I go monkeying with trying to stretch out the trim ring, are there alternative rings that will fit replacement switches? Can the old tumbler be refurbished to work without fiddling with it every time you turn the key? Thanks for any advice

Other than a cap failure, which was handled extremely promptly, I love my 123. While I do prefer the look of the black cap it did fail quickly. Ed had a replacement in my hands in two days which speaks volumes to their customer service. I ordered a Bosch and it looks and feels of higher quality.

Interesting and thank you for sharing that information. I was concerned about the drive shaft length in that conversion, seems like it would be pulled back too much. My existing mount still has the rubber in place it’s just separated from the steel. I honestly have more of a chirp than a clunk. I wonder if it’s possible to some how reattach the two components. Thanks for the feedback

Can the “newer” mount be turned around and fit the “older” diff, trans, drive shaft, mustache bar configuration?

Is this theory or is it truly that easy? I’m getting fed up with the clunk and really don’t want the change everything around it if possible. thanks

Don’t drink the pink sugar!! That stuff will kill you, stick to the Milo’s original sweet tea. Thanks for the info, Hopefully I can get some time soon for my next project. Did you ever get a Mata’s pizza?

Tell me more, share a link. I vaguely recall seeing a thread on the topic but my summer work schedule has limited my Z homework time. thanks

I had good luck with Cardone via Rock auto, about a 2 week turn around

And I’m reminded of the words of wisdom spoken by my father “son, nothing is as easy as it seems”... Just for poop and laughter I think I’m going to try a new arrester strap. The part is inexpensive and I have access to a lift to simplify installation.

I took a peek at my existing mount and it appears to be in decent shape. Would it be worth trying to replace just the arrester strap to stop or reduce the clunk or bite the bullet and go for the RT mount?

I have a 10/70 build 71 model with the monkey motion shifter which I believe pulls everything forward a bit and the mounts changed slightly with the “B” type transmissions. From what I gather mounts that fit my setup are impossible to find. I’m just now digging into this as my next project so I’m sure I have a lot to learn. Thanks for the links, I’ll check them out.

I have come across a few different options for diff mounts but I hadn’t seen this one discussed. Has anybody tried this mount? Seems like it would transfer a lot of vibration throughout the car. I’m out of luck with the typical OEM type mount due to my car’s setup. Thanks

I am also interested in the fuel pumps

Well that’s an easy solution! Why didn’t I think of that... sometimes I tend to overthink things. Thanks @Terrapin Z what about the line that comes from the device, I can’t recall the name off the top of my head, fuel guide maybe? Not sure of its purpose but it also is connected to the back of the breather box. Do you know what it’s purpose is and an alternate way to connect it?

I bought a set of K&N filters to install on my round tops. I know I’ll see no performance gain or gain any credits amongst the purists but I just kinda like the way they look, along with the valve cover breather. I’m keeping all the original parts in a box when/if I want them in the future. My question is what do I do with the float bowl overflow lines that are routed into the factory breather box? Thanks

Damn the luck... I’m headed out of town for the weekend. Maybe next time.