Roblaw

It is a T-top. Do the floors get wet from them leaking? Is the cowl rusting out a common problem like in an S30?

I looked a '82 ZX today and I liked a lot of things about it but one. It doesn't run but that does not concern me. It has minimal rust, headliner is falling. Here's the rub, both floorboards are wet and it smells musty inside. I've owned a 280zx that leaked after a new windshield install. I currently own a 280z that leaked from the cowl rust around the intake chimney. Question. What is the most likely location of leak on one of these? One clue could be the forward edge of the dash is surface rusty. The price is right but I don't want to rebuild another cowl. I appreciate any input.

Here's what I'm dealing with.

I looked at the spring rate for the Chevette coils on Rockauto. They were close to the OEM rate Zed provided but the spring lengths were a little shorter. Steve, is the 280z rear end heavier than the 260z? I'm thinking the Chevette coils are pretty close in rate to OEM for a 280z, maybe a little softer in fact. Unless the Rockauto numbers are arbitrary. They are real cheap. I may just get some and see how it goes.

Zed, thanks for that.

Hey all, I've been searching for new rear coils for the Z. Really sags back there and front looks like a "gasser" in comparison. Seems aftermarket only offers all 4. I've read about Chevette springs but unsure about going that route. Anyone know of a good source to get stock height rear coils?

FYI. I ended up using Frost King self adhesive foam with aluminum backing for the air recirc door on the blower housing. It was just the right thickness and form fits to the door openings on either side.

Thanks but I have the parts, I just need to re-cover the air recirc flap door in the heater box and I'm ready to go.

I am going to investigate for a cowl leak.

Here's my old heater housing. That flap door with the metal plate sandwiched between 2 padded vinyl cushions has a gaping hole in it. It has pretty much disintegrated. The vinyl makes it appear intact. Any ideas on what to replace the flap's vinyl cushions with on my "new" heater housing? They are peeling off and not in very good shape. I thought about putting tile shower floor lining on it with contact cement.

Update. Got the old water control valve (formerly water c*ck) cleaned up and installed. Did not have to remove dash. Put the wire back on adjusted it, installed new hoses, clamps and tested it. No leaks, the heat now will adjust and turn off. Just waiting on the Ebay blower housing then I'll button it back up. I'm thinking about getting a belt for the AC compressor and see if I get AC too. It spins freely with my hand. I don't know why the PO disabled it but he did a lot of Jack-leg things to this car. He apparently didn't care if the car had heat or defrost, so who knows. I still need to get new tires before it's really road worthy and I'm having a dilemma: it has old Enkei rims 15x8, 0 offset and dry rotted 225/50 tires. The rear tires rub on fenders when going over bigger bumps. From what I've read, people have had success with this tire/rim combo. Do I buy the same size tires and hope they don't stick out as far past the rim as these do, or get new rims and tires I know will fit? Any thoughts?

Got the water c*ck out. Not a horrible job and I have been dreading it and finding other things to do besides IT. Other than really stiff lever movement at 1st, it has really freed up and moves quite well now. Internally it looks really good. It hasn't moved in 20 years before I bought it. I think I'm gonna reinstall with new hoses and clamps. I already ascertained that the vacuum c*ck works when I restored vacuum to it. Wish me luck.

I accomplished some Z things today, thanks to Corona-quarantine. I finally have heated water going to my cabin. I tracked down the vacuum issue for the vacuum part of the water valve (AC car). Bad part is the water c*ck lever does not operate right (difficult to slide). So, I cannot control heat. I think it will either be full blast or not at all unless I fix water c*ck. Captain O, I saw your write up about mounting one in the engine bay, and I may do something like that but I can't use the vacuum hose hole already in firewall. Plus the hose routing would be different unless I take the vacuum water valve out of the equation. Anybody work with a generic water valve that was easy to install? I guess I'm gonna have to get it working correctly. I do have OCD tendencies. Still waiting on my Ebay blower housing and switched gears a little, so recovered my seats. I had the passenger seat out anyway so I could get by body under the dash. Now all my fingers hurt. If you've ever done seat covers, you know what I mean.

There are 2 for $70 ea. shipped. Seems pretty reasonable. One with the motor but no vacuum pot, the other no motor but has vacuum pot. I'm leaning towards one with motor for redundancy reasons.

Yes, the extra wire connector goes to blower housing. Research tells me it is the heater resistor wire. My car came with AC (doesn't work) and the connector is longer and flatter, with 5 blades in it. The ones I see on Ebay are square with 4 blades. I assume they are from non-AC cars and maybe I have an extra blower speed. Anyway, it appears I can just put my resistor into the Ebay bought housing and be on my way. I will also have to transfer the vacuum pot for the fresh air door. Anything I should know about the blower housings? I think they are the same with only add on accessories for AC.