ToolBoy

Thanks guys, Feeling much better about putting rear suspension together and back on the car again. Shocks seemed like they should be so obvious but I just wasn't sure. This site and everybody that participates is really appreciated. Gonna make her roll and then yank the engine and tear into the 5 speed. I'm gonna know and have gone thru and either painted, plated or replaced every nut, bolt and screw by the time I'm done. You will hear from me again! Best to all! And I know somebody's gonna notice from the photo. The brake backing plate is on the wrong side strut housing. This was a dry fit and I've since corrected. Stub axles pressed in soon. Inner bearing races and spacer will be supported from behind when stub axle is pressed in.

Thanks Racer X. I bought a wrench head previously that fit the stock nut but the one furnished with the yellow koni is circular. I've included photo of the tool I found recently. Good to know about the snap-on wrenches. I also read somewhere that the oil helps dissipate heat. . . Best, AndyIMG_1391.heic

. . . and mom is from Beaver Falls. Hah.

Hello jpc, Thanks for your reply and much appreciated video and thread. I was slowly becoming comfortable and had ordered a gland nut adapter for torque wrench but having the whole process in a video is really great. Did the car originally have a dust baffle installed or is it just a good idea? I will get a set of the foam Koni bump stops at your recommendation too. Just noticed your location. I'm originally from Lancaster. . . Thanks again. Andy

. . . also wondering about bump stops and dust baffles??

Rear stub axles are ready to press in and I'm starting to look at installing the yellow sport Koni's. The info that comes with the shocks is not terribly clear. Wondering if anyone has done a video or a Q and A? Also wondering if there is an adapter for the torque wrench that tightens the big Koni nut but that holds the shock in or do I just muscle it in with a big channel locks?? (rather not) Also how much oil to put in the cylinder? Thanks for any leads on this topic. . . . Best to all. . . Andy IMG_1380.heicIMG_1379.heic

Wow!! This is awesome!! I expected a half a shovelful and you guys pulled up and unloaded the dumptruck. I was thinking maybe I won't hear much about this. . . It's just the horns. . . So Wow!! I'm actually not as concerned about doing the finishes exactly as the factory did but rather just making the car look great in every detail and super corrosion resistant. It's a low number car at 19500 but the original engine was swapped out with an L26 the numbers matching block was lost years ago. Bought a complete L24, cheap from Ebay with usable block and crank but the head was undesirable and also had a big corrosion hole in it. I went looking and found an E31 head in great shape and installed the bigger stainless valves with new guides and seats. Cam and springs will be ordered when we figure out the lower end. Car came with an L26 engine so looking at using that stroker crank in the build. Not there yet. As I was blasting the horn parts I did notice that green but then again my car was BRGreen under it all and will be again. Is that olive drab color just the conversion coat for zinc that I'm reading about? Might get that chemical or just go yellow chromate as I think that looks good too. . . If I want to dunk a part in my plating tank and mask off an area what is the most reliable liquid proof masking?? I expect I'll find that info if I read all the posts. . . Thanks again to everybody who took the time!! Much appreciated!! ToolBoy aka Andy

Hello to all, I've just got my plating setup working and now want to zinc and yellow chromate everything in sight. I've seen photos of Z horns with freshened plating so I have hope. I took mine apart and am wondering if the back can be plated and if that requires grinding the rivets off to remove the guts. Is this a bad idea? Any input is appreciated. Horn2.pdf Horn1.pdf

Wow, Thanks. . have to study these.

Hello To All. . . Getting a little further along and with the E-31 head. Stainless Spirit Datsun valves are here. Super nice. Can anyone refer me to any older existing posts that get into suggested modifications to this head? I've seen oil spray bar, cam oil circulation changes and relieving the cylinder wall for the bigger valves. Are there any older posts that go into detail on these mods. Photos are always good too. Thanks!!

Hey siteunseen. . . . Thanks for that. Are those seats for the original E-31 valves or the upsized replacement I'm hearing about? Thx.

Hello to all. 18 months into my little 19500 project car and I'm working on an engine. Series 1 car was purchased with a swapped out, non operable and likely useless L-26 engine installed. I bought a 73 L-24 engine for not much money on ebay from a guy in the midwest who raced em years ago, expecting to use it for parts. Seemed to be in good shape at first but pressure tested and found gaping corrosion hole in the head rendering that part useless. I then looked around and found a slightly pricey, complete E-31 head that had never been done, and is really flat. Head, block and crank are now at the machine shop and my guy is looking for the bigger valves, new pistons etc. He said if we can find stainless valves, the seats are ok as they are. I'm asking the Z community ( you guys ) for any pertinent info and a source for the valves I'm looking for and anything else you want to throw in there at this stage of the game. I think I read somewhere that the bigger valves come from 280Z or ZX? I'm planning to use the block and crank I bought earlier from the 73 engine as they seem to be in good shape. Thanks in advance and any input is greatly appreciated. . . Best. . . Tool Boy

Greetings Z community, I'm actively looking to obtain 907 Green for my series 1 car. Somewhere along the way I was given "Ditzler 44403" and Parsons code /year DN86/72. When I went to "Finish Masters" in So Cal, Ditzler 44403 didn't show up on the computer with 1970 Datsun colors. Can anyone give me a definitive way to match / mix this color as it was back then? Any leads are appreciated. . . Best. . .

. . . think I answered my own question after looking at '1973 non-interchangability drawing posted by Hoover. Indicates It was the stock setup on that '73 car. . . Those pistons in that head. . .

Might not have mentioned it before but after getting the head off and turning the crank by hand, I remember noticing the tops of the pistons finished (popping up) above the surface of the block. The head also has the relief to accept it. Might be that "73 engine. Block number is 172296. I'm unclear if these pistons were ever on the new 73 car or were they only a factory replacement? I'm gonna tear down the L26 next week and have everything from both engines available before I visit the machine shop. Should have some options.

Thanks for that. . . Sounds like a very insightful suggestion to start conversation at the machine shop. . .

Wow!! That's awesome! . . . how can you tell they are oversized and not H2711? Are there advantages / disadvantages to this design change. Sounds like it was more emissions friendly. . . . Compression didn't change but a better burn? Thanks again. . .

IDK. . . I'm starting to come up with a plan. Just got it apart. Looks stock and unmodified but I've been wrong before. Head is E88 and the valves are 42mm and 33mm. Previous owner raced SCCA years ago and wasn't sure what had been done to this engine. Pistons made me wonder if any other work had been done. I think I'm gonna go with a ZStory race sport exhaust system as original exhaust fell apart in my hands and am having ZTherapy do their thing on the carbs. I've got a 5 speed and questionable L-26 still in the car. I ordered a spring compressor and will have valves out in next couple days. Trying to get a recommendation on a knowledgable machine shop in my area (West L.A.). It's gonna be a daily driver and I've no interest in the the track but I'm not adverse to having it be really quick. Will probably do some head work and welcome suggestions as I don't know what the hell I'm doing. Andy

Thanks Guys, I've read about a valve swap to take advantage of the slightly larger valves from the more recent Z cars. Could the indent be to accommodate the bigger valve? Just a wild guess. . .

Thanks Zed, Just looked at your reference links. . . That's pretty much what they look like. . . I guess they're stock after all.

Thanks Zed, Photos included. One side says AMP00 and the other has a symbol followed by 221. I was surprised that the pistons are vented on the sides thru the 3rd ring down. Wow. Is that typical??

Hello to all. . . I just received an L24 engine a few days ago that I was intending to use for backup parts but I'm thinking it might be a better engine than the L26 that's currently still in my series 1 car. L26 was parked with the fluids in for about 18 years and I expect trouble when I get in there so I bought the L24 cheap. I tore the new L24 down yesterday and the cylinder walls look perfect as does the crank and pistons. Shop will need to confirm. Lots of carbon crap caked on everything and an inch of sludge in the pan. I'm wondering if anyone in the community that's more experienced than I (which is everyone) can tell me about these pistons. Previous owner raced Z's in the midwest 15 years ago and he's now getting rid of some stuff. He couldn't say much for sure about this engine so I took my chances and the price was right. Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Nice, Thanks for this. . .

Hello to all. . . Can anyone clarify the difference between the red and yellow Koni struts. The yellows seen at Motorsport claim they were specially designed for S30 but I also see the red struts at other suppliers (Z car depot). Both are adjustable but the reds are more money so I'm wondering what the qualitative difference is between the two? Are they worth the additional outlay? Anybody know? Thx.