ToolBoy

Excellent. . . Will do. Thx.

Note to Zed. . . No oil of any kind coming from the tube that delivers oil to the cam.

Wow! Thanks for that Duffy! That thought actually crossed my mind but can you get the pan out without pulling the engine? (Would be easy enough for me to find out but just asking anyway. . . ) Andy

Man, You guys are awesome! The story is this. . . Seller said he bought the car at 120K miles and at 140K it needed to be rebuilt. He went to dealership and was told it was cheaper to swap the engine than to rebuild the one he had, so he did that. Rebuilt 260 engine was installed and rebuilt 5 speed. I asked to see a papertrail for the new block but that was conveniently misplaced over the years. Dual weber setup had been installed by first owner but I have SU's in a box. He then said he drove another 23K miles off and on and then garaged it for next 15 years. Odometer now reads x63, 421. Sold the car insisting there was only 23K on the new motor. I was going thru the stuff he gave me and I found 2 things of interest. He scribbled notes in his repair manual that engine was swapped at 160K in 1986 and break-in oil was changed 500 miles later. Then I found 4 service receipts from 2000 and 2004 with odo readings in the 83,000 range. One with a modicum of math skill would assume that car doesn't have 163,000 miles but rather 263,000 miles (or 100K more than that?). Federal law says you're not supposed to under-report mileage or fines and jail time might be in order. I'm in the process of researching and then will chase him to recoup part of the fraudulent purchase price. At this point I want to get it running but I don't really want a 260 engine and there seem to be L24 engines out there that could be rebuilt. I will use a combination of all the coaching you guys have given me to prime the system but I'm gonna install a new oil pump just the same. As I have no certainty about the state of this engine, any parts that I know are "new" will give me a little peace.

Awesome!! Thanks for your time!! Don't know what I'd do without you guys. . . What a great resource!! One day maybe I can contribute something!!

Can I prime the pump from the shaft under the distributor? (at a risk of asking a stupid question)

Thanks, Once I pull the oil pump can I prime the pick up tube from there? Goes from pan up and over thru pump first then filter then to cam lobes?

I also wanted to order the whole set of water hoses but Z Depot specifically says the set is for 240's and my engine was swapped for a 260. Do all or almost all the hoses from that set fit the L26 engine or do I have to order ala carte? Anybody know?? Thanks.

Hey grannyknot, Zed Head and EuroDat ( and anybody else who wants to chime in), Took all the AC stuff last night and stripped out the engine compartment for the most part. . . This am I squirted a bunch of motor oil in the cylinders and left the plugs out. Cranked it about 6 times for a total of over 2 minutes and still no oil spraying on the cam lobes. I'm gonna order a new oil pump, ( what else could it possibly be?? ) . . . and I promise, pictures are coming soon. . . Andy

Thanks Zed, Good to hear about the 5 speed bushings being an easy fix. I will need to go thru all the systems. . . . and I'll do the oil in cylinders. Maybe I won't bother with the compression test just yet. Thanks grannyknot. . . Somebody in my neighborhood also suggested bypassing the contaminated fuel system. Sounds like a good idea. And good to know about the 30 second delay. Couple other questions too. . . Provided I get it started, how long and at what intervals should I run it and at what point would you change the first oil? I'm also curious about the dual webers that are on the car now. I always really liked the SU's that were on my 72 and this car came with them in a box. Some people say it's a tossup between the two and some say with the present day gas available the webers might be better. I think I was using leaded 91 octane gas in the early 80's. Any opinions? Thx.

Car has perfect body and no rust but I might be buying a hoist soon. . . 5 speed shifter feels pretty crappy too. . .

Thanks Zed Head and w3wilkes!! Cranking with the starter, tank and fuel lines to come soon!!!. . . Andy

Thanks for that! I was told there could be piston scuffing if there was no oil up high in engine and to go slow by hand. Maybe i'll put some oil in the cylinders to follow the penetrating oil that's been soaking. I haven't gotten to the fuel tank as I'm not attempting to start it yet. Hoping to circulate oil and compression test for now to see what I've got. Seller under-reported the mileage by 100K but that's another story. I was told the engine was rebuilt 23K miles ago when it was actually 103K miles ago. Dying to see what the compression is. Gonna clean and test the radiator, replace water and fuel hoses and water pump as it's seized. Was sold to me with webers on and SU's in a box but I don't really want to screw with those webers. Intend to rebuild the su's, install em and then start it. I sold a 72 when I was 26 and I've regretted it ever since. Now I'm 60 and I finally have a Z again!!

Hello to all. . . Hopefully someone can shed some light. Starting a jan 71 car with 260 engine I just bought after 15 garaged years. Loaded the cylinders with penetrating oil, waited 3 days. Changed the oil and pre-filled the new filter with oil. Valve cover is off and I'm hand turning the crank and waiting for oil on the rockers. . . Seems like I turned 30 or 40 revolutions so far and still no sign. Do I keep going or order a new oil pump? Thought it would be there by now. . . . . Andy

Thanks 7tooZ, I'm pretty excited about the interactions I've had so far on this site. Seems like a great resource. Navigation is a little mysterious but I'll catch on for sure. I love my FJ40. Close to turning 400K miles on original engine. Oil pressure is still 60 lbs. and compression test recently showed 137-130-115-130-125-137. She's not dead yet!!

Thanks psdenno, No particular parts now other than what's required to repair any damage or degradation caused by previous owner storing the car for most of the last 25 years without winterizing the engine. I suspect it was started several times during the storage without oil priming the engine. I don't know. He claims the engine was swapped for L26 at 140K miles and now shows 163K but there is no receipt for the new engine. He's asking way too much money for a car I'm unable to start but claims the body is completely rust free, no small or large dings and never crashed. The few photos he is showing look good, straight with even gaps. After driving 400 miles early monday morning I'm planning on changing oil, soaking the cylinders with either fogging oil or penetrating oil (haven't decided), dousing the cam and rockers with oil and then hand turning the engine to circulate new oil. Then I'm gonna crank it and compression test and see what it says. Would imagine there is a fair amount of rust and corrosion in there.

Thanks for the response! I'm more interested in the car as a driver as my only vehicle for last 35 years has been 79 fj40. That being said one of the biggest thrills I had from my 72 240 in early 80's was after thorough tune up and valve adjust I would get 32 mpg on the freeway and so much fun to drive. Is a finish carpenter I don't have deep pockets but over time want to stay relatively close to stock. Thanks again!!

Hello All, If all goes according to plan, I'll be trucking a Jan, 71 Series one car home from out of state next week that's been garaged for most of last 20 years. I drove a 72 when was in my 20's and have regretted selling it since. My question is about the availability of parts? Thanks. . .

That's great.Thx! Car currently has dual Weber setup but SU's are there and I'll be reinstalling those. Does lots mean a tablespoon?

Thanks Dennis, All that's definitely gonna get done as well as valve adjust, prolly boil out the tank and flush the radiator. I was mostly concerned about dried out rubber and corroded electronics. Best,

I'm in the process of purchasing a Jan 71 Series one car that's been garaged for 12 years. Wondering besides the obvious external hoses, battery and fluids if there are any seals, gaskets or electronic parts that tend to need replacing right away. It's a rust free car that's been garaged in a super dry climate. I'm gonna compression test when I pick up the car and will splash oil on the cam and rockers and manually rotate the crank until I see oil up high before doing the compression test. Current owner claims there was a rebuild 23K miles ago but he has no papertrail.