Tourniqet

I know there is some racing name for it. like a "piston ping" or something of that sort... But It baisically happens in race or high revving situations. When an engine is revving really high sometimes it has "valve float" valve float is when the valve springs arent fast enough in pushing the valves back down when opening for the intake or exhaust cycles. Soooo what happens is when the piston comes up for compression or exhaust the valve is still open and in the way of the piston...BAM... collision. It is not a very fun thing to happen so I have heard

I probobly do need help:stupid:. But I fell on a string of bad luck you see. First I left the stock distributor in to cut down on the variables in case the car did not start. I cranked it and nothing happend, no firing whatsoever. So i tested distributor by taking a plug out and grounding on motor and looking for spark. No spark. So now I know it is my distributor. I figured that because I dont know ANYTHING about all of this vacum line business and i did not hook the vacume distrib tube up... So after I had switched it out with the mallory aftermarket one I found a lead to the coil that had slipped off... So it turns out the stock one was fine just a lead slipped off the coil. I already had the aftermarket one in so might as well try it. I did not get the sleeve for the distributor off of the parts car but it fit and I did not really realize that it would spin around in the stock sleeve. So I cranked it and it started spitting out the carbs... I talked to a few people and they said that means it is running lean, So then I messed with the carbs for a while and could not get anything to happen. So I did some searches on these forums and finally found a guy who suggested a distributor cap in 180* backwards. So i went out and found that the aftermarket one slid around the sleeve! So i turned it, started, turned, started etc. untill it started running. This was dumb and I should not have done this! I Later realized I could have thrown a rod or had a piston valve collision! I finally realized that my stock one would do better, so i swaped them (and had to fabricate the ground on the dist). It finally fired up. So I took her for a ride and tried to get the carbs reasonably tuned. I plan to take it to get a profesional carb tune, valve tune, and anything else I missed. So thats my story of that, next time I will definantly pace myself more, and not stay up untill 4 in the morning trying to get it to run!!!

I did not know the dist was backwards. I told people it was spitting at me and they said it was lean, and to adjust carbs. Later found out about distributor. But you are probobly right I should calm down and think more before I do some serious damage:tapemouth

The top header stud coming out of the engine closest to the radiator is broken off. I installed header and every thing seems to work well. Could this come back to haunt me?

ALRIGHT!! It is firing!!! I had the distributor in 180 from what it should have been, so it was firing on the exhaust cycle... The only problem is I couldnt get my stock distributor to work so I had to use the aftermarket one. I did not take the aftermarket distributor sleeve off the car i got it from so i can only tighten it down with the bracket. The whole assembly will move while connected(unless tightened). Sooooo I kinda guessed and got it somewhat close to what I think it should be. It took about 5 tries of starting and then getting out and turning the distrib about a quarter inch or so untill it actually idled. Ohh and i messed with the fuel mixture, need valves adjusted and am running out of fuel so add those to the equation. I took it for a drive because it seemed to be idling OK and + I dont have any self control. It was doing fine for the first 2 or 3 mins then it started spurting out of the carb again when I accelerated! it was kind of like bogging except just poping and spurting. That is my story.

Well, not really but that may be the problem. It is shooting air back up the intake manifold to the carbs so it may be becase the plugs are in the wrong cylinders but pple tell me it is running lean, and I dont know how to fix it....

Guys I almost have the car running tonight!!! I just installed dual weber DGV's and a full msa 6 to 1 header, with 2.5inch exhaust. I took all of my old smog crap off and put all of that on. SHE WONT START NOW!?!?! I did at least 90% of it right:stupid:. I cranked it for 2 minutes then found that a lead was off of the coil. I thought it was ignition so i put the mallory distributor and new plug wires. I am 92% sure plugs are in right place ( I labled them on car i took off). Now THe webers are HISSING AND POPPING when i crank it to start... I have heard about this b4 but dont know what it is....... PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I really want to hear it tonight!

How much do I torque down headder bolts and intake manifold bolts?!?!?!?! Sorry I want to get this done tonight!!!!

Make sure you scour the bottom of the car. I found a four inch tare in the floor pans of my car and then decided that it was repairable. But after finding the tares I neglected to keep looking, and found a nice 6 inch patch of rust on the frame rail connecting the end of the floor pan... the rear decklid, battery tray, every piece of the bottom of that car are likely suspects

my friend is a ferrari mechanic and he gets 250 an hour, THATS reasonable right???

BMW has my vote. They make great engines (straight six) and their boxer style engines in their bikes are very unique. As 2many said they give great performance, styling, luxury, comfort, everything i can think of. Also BMW is the only company I know of that constantly beats cars with more horsepower that have the same weight rating. No joke the bmw 3 series constantly beats the higher hp competitors that weight the same. AND HAVE YOU SEEN THE FILMS!!!!!!! check out star on season 1 www.bmwfilms.com

I am not sure, He is not selling shocks at all just springs and a GC adjustable type kit...

I replied saying that the extra room was bad and the larger diameter strut housing would prevent wider tires to be fitted. He wrote "The larger diameter 280Z strut housing is significantly stiffer than the 240Z part, and the insert is held only by its ends (not on the sides). Additionally, the increased oil volume around the insert helps it stay cooler. As for wide tires, I doubt that the 2mm occupied by the strut housing is significant. I use 225R15s on all four corners. In any case, the smaller diameter coilover spring is much more significant in this regard."

oh geese forgot to read the next page of posts...

At least you know that if you find the car and the guy who did it, we will all plan a road trip up to Oregon and all take turns with him:angry:. If ya know what I mean!

I ran across a guy who has some ground controll suspension but he says I need 280z front strut housing to put it on my 240z. He also said it is a good thing to do because I have more clearance around the inserts... What exactly is this mod and how hard is it to do? Thanks

Ya, I am going to order black diamond vinyl for the towers and rest of the car. I will probobly replace the seats also. Hopefully with Corbeaus or some other aftermarket race seat:classic:

I think the headliner might be leather, kinda hard to tell. But i think the rear pieces are kind of a moulded vinyl...

CHECK OUT THE PICS IN MY GALLERY!!!! A fellow member told me the interior may not be original, I have a weird ribbed headliner, and also some speakers fabricated behind the seats in the toolbox things. Please tell me what you all think, oh and also if you think it would look good with black diamond vinyl interiro... Thanks