Cyrillink

Hey Team, Got some pictures to clear a few things up. I opened up the butterfly screw and got the engine running well lean but i wanted to warm her to check the temp sensor. Picture below with the temp cooling down and Ohms were changing good sign. TPS - In idle. AFM - moves freely. Really starting to suspect wrong model of AFM.

HAHAHA, its taken off while i am working on the car. Before AFM i just have a basic filter. nothing else. Food storage Brilliant still laughing.

@Zed Head and @Dave WM So i narrowed it down to not getting enough air into the system. My AFM Idle screw wide open and my IDLE screw is wide open. Should i use the little screw on the side of the Throttle body? I cant find any information on it and what it should be at also the butterfly is completely sealed when i am not hitting gas. Just curious, really want to finish her up.

As far as color Whitish plastic, greenish sleeve

When the engine was cold (50-60f) Pin 13 showed 3.445 Kohm

Update: Following EFI manual, having a hard time syncing everything up to run well. Still running very very rich.

So i was working on the car today and checking resistance and connections i noticed that the Air Regulator was not working and the sensor was almost broken off. Do we think it might have been an issue first of all that was causing the bad idle? was thinking of ordering this part as a replacement : 22660-45P00 according to Chickenman's recommendation. So just as a safety measure i replaced the fuel pump. OK, newest update this was kinda cool first time i seen the car running well. I was working and testing the car had the AFM connected electricly but the boot was off by about an 1" enough to see that there was an opening. I started the car up she ran at about 1k rpm REALLY NICELY! i mean i was thrilled to see her run. once i put everything together she was wabbleing again. which lead me to my earlier discovery. Also i am going to block off the cold injector to test if its leaking into the motor which is causing to go super rich. had to clean the plugs again twice. and yes i will be on my 6th replacement set. HAVING a blast. BUT WHAT I FEELING TO SEEING HER RUN!

Yes replaced the regulator. Sorry actually working on this car now. I will test it. now.

Hey Team, Had a few more hours going at the 280z last night i was still sure i am leaking from somewhere and was right. So here is the quick update. Took of the throttle body and made a block off plate and ran a vacuum test of the whole system again just to be a 100% sure it was sealed. With about 30-40psi on the smoke machine. Saw i was leaking vaccum leak from Engine Cap, Cold Start Valve, Charcoal Canister, and few places on the throttle body (secondary air pump). ANYWAY. got really annoyed bought every possible hose under the sun and replaced. Some of them were loose. tightened everything up. Starting to check the wires and resistance. Notices an intermittent issue with fuel pump. replacing wires. Still checking and hoping with the new vacuums plugged up. I saw a FAST efi for the datsun thinking of making the recommendation of installing it.

Spend another few hours working on this clunker ? ( as you can see from my tone about one of my favorite cars of all time) Today tasks, Cleaned all the spark plugs again, Started her up ran well no idle still. Did find a small hex to adjust the butterfly but what i gather dont mess with it. wrong way to get a good idle. Had the A/F Ratio gauge hooked up and was right super super rich. Now, the AFM is brand new (re-manufactured by whom unknown) (maybe an issue why the car has so many problems) Replaced FPR (it was not working at all leaky) Put the car together a 100% and then started working with AFM. AFM - Idle A/F Ratio did nothing. Rich AF (not in the good way) I hooked up my leak tester and noticed that there was a bit of smoke coming F.I.C.D. solenoid. (i think that's what it is called.) It was minor but I am still going to take all the accessory hoses and zip tie them shut. Connect my vacuum gauge and really see whats up. Going to use this is a reference, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/ Will keep you posted, thanks for joining me on this fun journey, learning a ton!

Ok, Hit another brick wall today. Hahaha Well, Car is together. My Knuckle healed up. So my previous post was a none starting issue.. FIXED - Wet Spark PLUGS.. So, went out and exchanged the spark plugs, Installed. Car started. YEY I adjusted the Ignition timing using distributor cap to 10 to degrees of TDC at 800RPM . The car idles more or less okish at 600 - 700rmp. The throttle screw - completely useless does not do anything when i adjust it counter clock wise, but when i shut it all the way the car stop running. One turn on the throttle body Idle Screw counter clockwise and the car starts idles rough same way at 600 700rpm. So, I was reading some guys had clogged injector, pulled the system CLEANED EVERYTHING. Put it together - same issue but the car is running rougher. Pulled the plugs WET again. Decided to run the car a bit to see if she runs better. NOPE Nada. same issue rough idle tons of smoke. Started messing with the Idle A/F Ratio but i don't have a A/F Ratio meter, Going to see if i can make A/F Ratio Meter using an old gauge laying around. The 280z does not have any O2 connected to it, with after market pipe it has on it. Might need to make a hole in the exhaust or just buy EZ Clamp-On Tailpipe to attache the o2 sensor for tuning. Thanks guys.

Will try tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up!

I will send pictures first thing tomorrow morning with piston #1 at TDC, I am taking a break. busted my hand on the radiator pretty badly while cranking the motor setting to TDC

Doing that now.

Hey Team, Moved it to timing mark #2 on the cam, everything checks out right. Tightened all screws car cranks and put everything back together. Timing light is firing about 15 degrees of TDC on crank. Car wont start (facepalm). Distributor is set to factory marking. not sure what da hell is going on.

Hey Dave, When i checked my U cut out straight on the mark. Below is an example of kinda what i see. except the U shape is right below the mark.

Hey Team, Here are the pictures of the broken/burn gasket. The GOOD: Took the day today and put the car back together. Replaced every hose that was cracked and looked older / shotty. Car started right up no pops no bangs nothing just ran. Was very very good to hear it start and run. So much better right of bat. No more blue smoke from the pipe. The BAD: Still no Idle Have to the gas slightly to keep it at 800 - 1000. Pulled off the brake master vacuum hose connected the vacuum gauge... 5! (FACE PLAM) Things done next: Took of PCV - Cleaned Checked all the lashes - GOOD Checked the sparks looking good all Cylinders are firing finally! Tightened the Intake to about 25lb and proper tightened exhaust Checked the Timing with a timing gun and found interesting stuff; While it was set at zero (FACTORY Mark) on the distributor, on the timing was a little below 20 once i moved it all the way up i was able to get it to position 5. Car ran much better sound wise, BUT! i started getting black smoke! not much though. probably F/A ratio idle screw needs adjusted changed. Thinking about moving a tooth down on a cam to fix timing. Side Note Question: Any recommendations on a new coil to run with out the ballast resistor. Currently have ACCEL 8140C superstock 1.4 ohms on the primary. Thanks team. Really been enjoying build. Super different then my usual 300zx fixers.

Hey team wanted to wish everyone a happy new year and give some updates. so I took apart the head, And like expected there was a hole in the gasketAnd like expected there was a hole in the gasket Between cylinder three and four

i agree with the odd story, i think something is not adding as well. The odometer says 30k m, body is also in a great condition. so here is the thing that throw me off, head inside is spotless no residue/stains what so ever. Also the cam lobs on the parts that are not worn look newish. Maybe a rebuild or an new engine? is there a vin on the motor? Whatever, i know the issue and again thanks for allowing me to bounce some ideas of you. I will keep everyone posted on the Head gasket rebuild and how it comes out. Hope this helps people out! a lot of good info.

I checked the head was way over torqued! I am waiting on the timing chain tool and i will get cracking. The other mech kept the for like a month and barely did anything. From what i understood as the story develops further. Never over heated.

You saw the video? Yeah i know.

So, Did the full Valve Lash tune up. Cyl 1,2 Good! holds pressure no issues. compression 150. Cyl 3,4 - On a leakdown test Spits air form the other cyl. 5,6 - GOOD! So, i am assuming - head-gasket Video.mov Video_1.mov

Flemington NJ, prob 45 min maybe less.

I agree the 4 and 3 are not dirty at all and Cylinders have the most wear on the cam, barely had any valve lash, it was 0.002in and 0.001in barely fit. I am taking the day off to relax and get over a nasty cold. Coming back to it tomorrow. Also, i am going to double check the Valve timing tomorrow morning. I really thing the major issue is valve lash/valve timing. When i ran a 70psi with a leak down tester i had 95% lose! Hey Guys, Zed, Rep and David - PM me if you guys ever in NJ/NY beer is on me!

So speaking to the owner i found out they had a full engine rebuild like 2 years ago and then it was parked for rest of its life. The Owner took it out really really ran it hard and then this started.