Cyrillink

Due to valves not closing correctly the plugs have oil on them. Hope this helps any one with a similar issues. Pretty comprehensive diagnostic.

Looking very "Healthy"

Yep, going to start the adjustments. right now Cold: Intake .008" Exhaust .010" Yey FUN!

Hey Team, So i broke down and bought a really good leak down tester. The valves are leaking badly. i think we have our diagnostic.

Hey Dave, Thanks for the feedback. I am going to put this thing together entirely and take it for a 10 to 15 mile spin warm it up properly. than i will pull the plug send a photo.

Thanks for the recommendation going to try the paperclip. Already have the new sensor installed as well.

Just checked, Looks good to me

I tossed in a new set of plugs first thing i did. and timing was set by some one else. i am about to get a timing gun and double check it my self.

Checked the injector harness looks to be plugged in correct

Interesting Idea, let me double check the correct wire pattern

car is indoors with the heat on to 60f sensor reading from the ECU Harness 2.07k Ohm.

I am getting a better snapon Multi meter right now going to test it again and get back to you. Thanks again

Yes, plugs had moisture on them.

Hey Zed, Tested the resistance and i was able to get a reading back, the reading was similar to when the sensor was pulled out of the car for cleaning. Took out the plugs cleaned them to make sure everything is well. Car did the same thing. Blue smoke, rough idle while only holding the paddle down. Going to do another smoke test just to triple check.

Installing a new one won't help if the wires aren't connected to the ECU. - reply thank you for confirming my suspitions. What do you mean if the wires are not connected to the ECU.? Do you believe that cables broke, just dirty inside or disconnected? Should I not even take out the coolant temperature sensor and clean it or even bother replacing it even i have it? Sorry for the weird question. And thank you for attaching the exact connections with pins

Installing a new one won't help if the wires aren't connected to the ECU. - Zed Head _________________________________________________________________________ Thank you for confirming my suspitions. What do you mean if the wires are not connected to the ECU.? Do you believe that cables broke, just dirty inside or disconnected? Should I not even take out the coolant temperature sensor and clean it or even bother replacing it even i have it? Sorry for the weird question.

Hey Team I have spent a lot of time on this forum and i want to say thank you all so much this is an incredible community. I have hit a brick wall and looking for a little help. Background story; I'm helping a friend of mine fix his 280z with 30,000 miles on it all original. Car has been garage kept all its life. Really really well taken care of. Apparently some one A-hole mechanic tried before me and failed miserably and i don't know what he/she messed up or touched. After them the car didn't even start. Fixed that issue. (FACE PALM) ?‍♂️ When you try to start the car it tries to start but never does on its own. If you give it gas than the car starts but it is runs rough(motor shaking). Have to keep the gas paddle pressed in just a little to keep it running. Car smokes white/bluish smoke from the tail pipes. (running rich) ( Gas smell). Changed the oil after the previous Mech worked on it smelled like gas was in it. Did a double flush much better now. Things i did and tested on the entire car: Spark Plugs - New Spark Plugs Wires - New Battery - New Battery Terminals - Cleaned Distributor cap - Cleaned and polished Dizzy - Cleaned and polished Pick Up - Adjusted to correct distance from roller according to 0.08in or 0.2mm Distributor Vacuum - Good Ignition Coil - NEW (built in resisters original ceremic resistor was missing) (https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_coils/street/super_stock/parts/8140C) Fuel Pressure - 22-25psi in when engine is off, while the car is running at low rpm 30psi+ ( 700 to 1k) Smoke test - No leaks AFM - Refurbished still sealed was installed last month AFT Idel screw - Did not mess with Throttle Body Screw - NO EFFECT when turning clock or counter clock Electrical - 12V all over from Body, Engine, - All good Ground Connectors - Clean Coolant Temp Sensor - Ordered Arriving tomorrow (CANT IMAGINE ITS THE REASON) Timing - Seems good 10 degrees of from original zero marking Cylinders Compression Test - 125 + on all Cylinders Injectors connections - look good Injectors - listen to them with stethoscope sound health strong tick HELP!!!? Thank you again for reading. I will be testing tomorrow.