jtay

Trying again to ask for help with a mechanic in the DFW area that has 240Z carb and engine experience? Anyone have advice? Thanks

Any other suggestions on a mechanic or local member who can help me get these carbs tuned right and help in getting the car running better. Texas Retrosports has gone out of business. The owner moved. Any other leads around DFW area. I am specifically in Allen area. Thanks in advance.

Well I found out that on my fresh carbs one idle screw(A) was missing so it came in the mail today. I put it in and was able to get the air flow corrected. The front SU was pulling a whole lot more air than the second one. Now they are even. I hear these are easy to tune so if anyone has what my next step should be let me know. I took it for a test drive and it did drive a little better but I know there is more to tune. Thanks. Pics below.

Thanks Keith. I have called multiple times today and it rings a while and then gets transfered and then VM at Republic Engine? So have not talked with anyone yet. On the compression numbers I think they are good. I followed the below with 4-5 revolutions. Someone said earlier they need to be above 165. Guessing not with 4 revolutions.

Keith do you have any other places to recommend? I look them up on Google Maps and it shows as permanently closed and last update on Facebook was early this year with their website down as well.

Here is the update. Took it out this morning and in 1 and 2 I get pretty good torque and can take the RPMs up to where I want. I stopped around 5K. When in D it drives very conservative and shifts around 3K. Went home and did oil change and new filter. Got up to temp and then did the compression check and held throttle open. 140 142 142 145 143 142 with 4-5 revolutions I did one more test with 8-10 revolutions and it would get up to 150-160. When driving the car does hesitate when the accelerator is pushed and then it kicks in. Let me know your thoughts and thanks.

I did adjust the valve lash and have not done the compression test after that. Those numbers were done when the engine was cold. I will take back out for a drive and see about 1 and 2 when it cools down. 104 here today and I do not have the AC working yet. The person that had it before me did extensive work on the body(no rust) and interior is brand new but he did not spend much time on the mechanical restoration and that is where I come in. I think there are multiple things going on and I would like to make sure the engine is good before I go down a slippery slope of rebuild. I certainly expect more out of this engine than what I am getting. No torque what so ever. Steadily climbs to the speed I need but I expected more and need to drive another 240 to compare.

Thanks guys. I have checked the kick down and it clicks under the pedal and at the tranny. The kick down line did have to be removed and bent to allow it to work with the new Euro style bar from Ztherapy. Pic below. I also found this part that I have no idea how to tell if working correctly. The kick down line goes into this Valve S30. https://zcardepot.com/products/automatic-transmission-modulator-valve-s30?_pos=1&_sid=619e5bf2f&_ss=r As far as fluids, the tranny fluid is new and the antifreeze but I have not changed the oil yet. I have all receipts and it shows an oil change last year but less than 100 miles driven. Guess I better do that and new filter. What about distributor points? The car does hesitate a bit on acceleration. PIC of kick down and distributor.

Finally got the 72 put back together and have been doing a few test drives. Unfortunately this is an automatic and very original car with 75K miles so I do not want to change to manual right now. With the automatic it is difficult in D to get above 3500 RPM. I have seen it once jump to 4500 when I floor it and other times are always 3500 when I floor it. I really think it should drive stronger so I need someone to check my work and tune as needed. I have added newly rebuilt Ztherapy SUs, spark plugs, valve job, ceramic coated header, exhaust, resonator, and other misc things. I know about the person in Fort Worth but that is very far away from Allen TX. I would like a reliable engine mechanic that is closer to Allen who understands the L24. Let me know your thoughts and if there is something I can check to get this engine running strong. Compression check is 142 140 145 125 125 135. The engine has never been rebuilt.

Thinking I can use something like this and make a straight connect. Just need to figure out size.

Yep it is a little kinked on both sides. Looks like in packaging they tried to protect it but it pushed against that cardboard. I have been pinching it to get it to unkink. If anyone has a picture of the Y plug or removal of the Y please post. I do good with pictures. Made good progress today. Pic below.

I believe he capped it off at the red circles so I believe that is best method. I have already done the thermostat cap but what do you do to cap it at the Y in the lower red circle. Do I have it go from the metal Y to the little bit of hose and then find a cap that fits that hose? Ideas on that. Also the carbs were shipped without any oil. Seems I need 20W oil and the only 20W oil I can find is fork oil. Is that what I use? Thanks again and wish me luck. I have had this apart for 5 months waiting on the carbs and I just received them and should have taken more pictures of what goes where...

Any advice as I need to get started putting it all back together?

I sent mine in for a core and they sent me another one back. Here are the pics where it is plugged up. I really do not need it going through the intake manifold since I live in warm TX. Here are pics. What have others done in this situation?

I received my carbs from Ztherapy and I ended up with the Euro style balance tube. Miscommunication but it looks good. Because of this I no longer have the coolant going through the balance tube. I did not prepare for this so I am trying to figure out how to "plug" the coolant lines that would have gone through the balance tube. Does anyone have pictures that show how to address this or can you suggest? Thanks in advance and see my pics below.

Sure, you have my contact information. Let me know if you want the air pump and the original hoses off that as well. Talk soon.

72 240Z with SUs question. Look at pic and let me know if I can throw away part 1. Does anyone have a good way to cap off 2? Afraid it will screw up expected airflow. Thanks!

So I have taken off the old header and it weighed quite a bit. I was a bit surprised. So the new header does not have connections for smog and also does not have the connection for the air filter. Do I take off the air pump and all the other misc equipment since I can't use it anymore? Pics below.

Thanks AK for the laundry list of things. I received the MSA header and exhaust today. I also received the resonator I ordered. I will post pics when I get into it. Most likely late next week. I should be able to get the header on but will have to go to a local shop to cut and weld the resonator on. One thing I do not have is welding tools or the skill to do that. Thanks for all the help.

Nice pic with the snow. Going to be 50+°F here in Texas. @jfa.series1 I am up in the Allen area so let me know where the club meets and I will try to make it. I have a few things to work out on the car before I feel safe driving it far from my house. I have to figure out the smog/air pump stuff as Ztherapy will remove the holes and since it will be a few months until I get the carbs I have to figure out how to tune the SUs. The MFA header does not come with the holes for the smog equipment anyway. Right now I have more airflow to one than the other SU and the car does not run as good as it should. This car has had 1K miles put on it over the last 10 years so it has been sitting quite a bit. I have already removed the old fuel as step one. I checked compression and it seems pretty good as well.

Thanks for the great information. Since I live in TX and it does get very hot here I think I will go with the ceramic MSA. I do love the looks of the SS though. Below are some pics of the car. 75K documented miles and first owner had car until 2012. Original window sticker and all service documentation throughout history of car. Next is on to Ztherapy SU carbs. Called them and they are booked out until June.. Geez they must be busy. Couple pics of the car below.

I have picked up a very original 72 240 and the header and exhaust are rusted pretty bad. I want to replace but have questions. If you had a choice to go with the MSA ceramic system or the zstory street stainless system which would you choose? The MSA ceramic says it will be cooler by 40%. MSA being cheaper is a plus. MSA https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19d/15-6001CH Thermal Coating:This header comes with a highly durable and effective Aerospace Thermal Barrier Ceramic or TBC coating, which is good up to 1300 degrees fahrenheit. The satin "polished" silver finish coats both the inside and outside of the header. This does a number of things. First, it cuts radiated heat by approximately 40%. Not only does this help to keep your under hood rubbers and plastics from drying out, it also lowers the temperature of the fuel and air which translates into increased performance. ZStory https://www.datsun-zstory.com/echappements/headers/headers-street-sport/ Thanks in advance.