Clay C

My $65 ebay special from this original post is still going strong. Most reliable car I own and I have quite a few cars. Im sure that $265 spray bar is wonderful and I hate to take money out of someone's pocket...BUT, I probably have half a dozen bars lying around now. If the person inquiring about that bar wants to get in touch with me I'm sure we can work out getting you one of mine I am not using.

Man everything is expensive! Just checked them out, they do have a huge selection in terms of sizes they can do but I'm being picky and going for a specific look over functionality. Someone is making Wantanabe look alikes in these sizes but I cant find out who! Ive seen them in pictures but cant run down where they are sourcing them.

Fitment appears to be cast wheels, options get pretty limited when you get such odd sizes. Yeah, I will head over there and throw out the question. I know there are people out there that do this, just very hard to find.

I am having the hardest time finding somewhere to order a set of wheels for a heavily modified s30 I am working on now. I should end up needing something like 16x10 fronts 16x11 rears with a crazy negative offset. I can barely find anything in a 16" wheel that's offered in a custom 3 piece. 17's would work I think but I really wanted a little more beefy tire. Is there some source for 3 piece wheels everyone knows about but doesn't come up in a google search??

I haven't swapped mine yet or even bought anything to swap them with. Forget about it until I corner hard left and hear my tire rubbing on my fender!

To put it more simply, with the exception of some major engine upgrades which are against the rules, is there any benefit to using anything other than the SU’s. Would it be able to take advantage of anything more?

Finished up the race. It was an absolute total disaster leading up to around 2 hours into the 1st day of the race….but after much toiling we got the car to run well enough to get on the track. Finished 140+laps and it didn’t break which is a smallish victory I guess. We were probably the slowest on track after a horrible choice by my team mate to run a single barrel ford carb on a goofy homemade intake plenum. Great off the start but after half way through 3rd gear there wasn’t much there. Actually won an award for essentially being the “best worst car” which was pretty cool. Question for all you guys is if you are running stock internals and everything else including exhaust manifold is there anything that would work any better than the twin SU’s? My argument with my team (although I couldn’t back it up with facts) was running some dumb arse carb setup or dumping more fuel in this engine isn’t going to get you anything and probably will just make things worse. I do plan on making modifications on this car and doing this again. There’s a pretty strict budget on what you can spend on race prep. I could cheat a little and overbore, do some head work but even then I think the SU’s would still be all I would need. can someone confirm?

Thanks Steve, If i manage to screw things up royally (which is a good possibility) I will take you up on that. I may just stick with the points....honestly I don't know if one is better than the other for my situation. It only has to run for about 14 hours over the course of 2 consecutive days. Only other experience I have with points was my 64' Fairlane, I don't remember having to screw with them that often. It wont hurt to slap it on with that Gm thing and give it a try.

Perfect! The more hodge-podge the better! Thank you sir

I also have this thing?? I can't believe this turd runs with all the junk I've used to get it running. Easiest would be just to buy the Petronix 2 system but I am already technically way over the money limit imposed by the race organizers....and honestly its kinda fun making all of this work with all the crap I have laying around.

Need a little knowledge on the Ignition setup. The car is running pretty good, after the above advice I went with SU's. Right now I am running an older distributer with points. I have a dist from a 76' that's electronic. It looks like the picture below. I dont have the black box on the end of the wires. I assume there is always some kind of module for the electronic distributors (dont think that is what that is). What else do I need to use this setup instead of the one with the points? All I have now is a coil.

Thanks guys.

EFI. Yeah, I think I’ll just send that N42 head out to get flattened or whatever it needs. Old junk parts you have no idea if it’s already been shaved before…or at least I don’t!!

Trying to put together a car for a junker endurance race. I need the drivetrain "Big Brains' to tell me which head to use. I have a N42 L28 Block in decent shape. It does have dished pistons which are different than the ones that were on my L24. Best I can tell this is normal. I have 3 Different heads in a shipping container that rats are currently pooping on I can use for this block. I have an N42 head that came on the block. Probably needs some machining which is fine though I am not supposed to spend money on the car but I will. I have an E88 with no camshaft installed. I also have a new or rebuilt P90 that is all wrapped up in plastic. I have absolutely NO idea what the difference in the heads are other than the P90 I think is used for Turbo setup which this IS NOT. This may be better suited for the Hybrid Z site but I am not a member there currently. I have ZERO aspirations for increased horsepower or any performance upgrades.....Just hoping it will make it through 2 days of running hard for the better part of 12 hours total. What would someone with way more knowledge of these block/head combos pick? Running the stock Fuel Injection. Its going into an 83 ZX.