Clay C

My $65 ebay special from this original post is still going strong. Most reliable car I own and I have quite a few cars. Im sure that $265 spray bar is wonderful and I hate to take money out of someone's pocket...BUT, I probably have half a dozen bars lying around now. If the person inquiring about that bar wants to get in touch with me I'm sure we can work out getting you one of mine I am not using.

Man everything is expensive! Just checked them out, they do have a huge selection in terms of sizes they can do but I'm being picky and going for a specific look over functionality. Someone is making Wantanabe look alikes in these sizes but I cant find out who! Ive seen them in pictures but cant run down where they are sourcing them.

Fitment appears to be cast wheels, options get pretty limited when you get such odd sizes. Yeah, I will head over there and throw out the question. I know there are people out there that do this, just very hard to find.

I am having the hardest time finding somewhere to order a set of wheels for a heavily modified s30 I am working on now. I should end up needing something like 16x10 fronts 16x11 rears with a crazy negative offset. I can barely find anything in a 16" wheel that's offered in a custom 3 piece. 17's would work I think but I really wanted a little more beefy tire. Is there some source for 3 piece wheels everyone knows about but doesn't come up in a google search??

I haven't swapped mine yet or even bought anything to swap them with. Forget about it until I corner hard left and hear my tire rubbing on my fender!

To put it more simply, with the exception of some major engine upgrades which are against the rules, is there any benefit to using anything other than the SU’s. Would it be able to take advantage of anything more?

Finished up the race. It was an absolute total disaster leading up to around 2 hours into the 1st day of the race….but after much toiling we got the car to run well enough to get on the track. Finished 140+laps and it didn’t break which is a smallish victory I guess. We were probably the slowest on track after a horrible choice by my team mate to run a single barrel ford carb on a goofy homemade intake plenum. Great off the start but after half way through 3rd gear there wasn’t much there. Actually won an award for essentially being the “best worst car” which was pretty cool. Question for all you guys is if you are running stock internals and everything else including exhaust manifold is there anything that would work any better than the twin SU’s? My argument with my team (although I couldn’t back it up with facts) was running some dumb arse carb setup or dumping more fuel in this engine isn’t going to get you anything and probably will just make things worse. I do plan on making modifications on this car and doing this again. There’s a pretty strict budget on what you can spend on race prep. I could cheat a little and overbore, do some head work but even then I think the SU’s would still be all I would need. can someone confirm?

Thanks Steve, If i manage to screw things up royally (which is a good possibility) I will take you up on that. I may just stick with the points....honestly I don't know if one is better than the other for my situation. It only has to run for about 14 hours over the course of 2 consecutive days. Only other experience I have with points was my 64' Fairlane, I don't remember having to screw with them that often. It wont hurt to slap it on with that Gm thing and give it a try.

Perfect! The more hodge-podge the better! Thank you sir

I also have this thing?? I can't believe this turd runs with all the junk I've used to get it running. Easiest would be just to buy the Petronix 2 system but I am already technically way over the money limit imposed by the race organizers....and honestly its kinda fun making all of this work with all the crap I have laying around.

Need a little knowledge on the Ignition setup. The car is running pretty good, after the above advice I went with SU's. Right now I am running an older distributer with points. I have a dist from a 76' that's electronic. It looks like the picture below. I dont have the black box on the end of the wires. I assume there is always some kind of module for the electronic distributors (dont think that is what that is). What else do I need to use this setup instead of the one with the points? All I have now is a coil.

Thanks guys.

EFI. Yeah, I think I’ll just send that N42 head out to get flattened or whatever it needs. Old junk parts you have no idea if it’s already been shaved before…or at least I don’t!!

Trying to put together a car for a junker endurance race. I need the drivetrain "Big Brains' to tell me which head to use. I have a N42 L28 Block in decent shape. It does have dished pistons which are different than the ones that were on my L24. Best I can tell this is normal. I have 3 Different heads in a shipping container that rats are currently pooping on I can use for this block. I have an N42 head that came on the block. Probably needs some machining which is fine though I am not supposed to spend money on the car but I will. I have an E88 with no camshaft installed. I also have a new or rebuilt P90 that is all wrapped up in plastic. I have absolutely NO idea what the difference in the heads are other than the P90 I think is used for Turbo setup which this IS NOT. This may be better suited for the Hybrid Z site but I am not a member there currently. I have ZERO aspirations for increased horsepower or any performance upgrades.....Just hoping it will make it through 2 days of running hard for the better part of 12 hours total. What would someone with way more knowledge of these block/head combos pick? Running the stock Fuel Injection. Its going into an 83 ZX.

I appreciate that. I checked and I have the thicker springs in the rear. May just be a dead spring, its the side the gas tank weight is on. I think I will give the ones from Z car Source a shot and report back.

I would be interested to hear from anyone that has used the Springs that are 30% stiffer. Z Car Source sells them. I have been finished with my car for about 1.5 years now and every time I throw it in a left hand turn my rear passenger tire scrubs. For all I know I have the wrong springs front and rear. I remember getting some conflicting info when I was putting that all back together. I can live with a firm ride, just don't want it to feel like a horse and buggy.

I think at some point my right rear turn signal was working fine. It IS NOT working now. At the 4 prong square connector that feeds the light harness at the rear of the car I have power coming from the front of the car. Check with the test light and it blinks fine when its unplugged....Plug it in a NO flashing. However the Hazard lights that seem to run on the same wire work perfectly fine. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to look for a problem. Only think I can think of is there is a separate ground for the Hazards vs the Turn Signal. The front right turn signal works fine, this is just on the rear.

I think that is the one that I ended up using.

Late to the party. I have the same setup as you had. What ended up working for me was the new Diff Mount....the RT Mount (though I modified it so that it hit the top of the diff in the right place)....and a later model Mustache Bar. I can't remember if I used the later model drive shaft but I think I did. It's been around 6 months and I have so many different parts from all different year models laying around. The mod to the RT mount isn't rocket science, I have a welder but am by no means a "welder". It took probably 15 minutes. You will see what it needs if you go this way. The top busing needs to be moved to land on the diff correctly and not to interfere with the parking brake cable best I can remember.

Careful not to break the metal Clips or you will be out $120 for a set of 4 of them!

It was brutal! I've done the best I could and always knew I probably wouldn't end up with a Concours product. That being said I did expect a very nice finished product that I could be proud of....This was FAR from that. My hats off to everyone here that is spending the time and money to get to that level! I can't imagine how long it takes and how expensive that becomes. I had an idea in my head how long this would take and how much money I would have in it......I have doubled both! The guy that ran that shop was pretty embarrassed and did the right thing. In the end they did a nice job at their expense the second go around. Me and him are fairly close though, It could have been really bad if it were with someone I had no relationship with.

Had some wiring issues that took me a while to figure out. This car had dealer installed AC, I didn't put that back on though I may change my mind when summer rolls around and I'm sweating profusely all over my armor-all'd seats. Car seems to have plenty of power and it should handle AC without making it sluggish. I had some of that wiring for the AC jacked up and the whole thing with the blower motor wire changing colors was confusing. Somehow I had something connected that energized the radio housing! Wheel Cylinders started leaking, were working fine before but I guess they didn't like sitting on a shelf for a year. Ordered rebuild kits since this is a '71 and the replacements cost around $350.....PO must have already did the conversion to the later model cylinders cause that kit definitely wouldn't work. Ignition switch is wonkey now with the key. You have to persuade the key just right to turn in on and off and now the key will come out when the car is running. Not sure what that's about but I have a new switch ready to install. Of course after I had everything put back together and the new door cards on before I realized the locks wouldn't work and the windows weren't tracking right. If I do another one of these cars I should be able to cut my time in half after all the boneheaded things I have done on this one. Should have checked all of that before installing the door cards which aren't a breeze to install with the new clips. Locking problem ended up being simply the little plastic ends that are on the rods that connect to handle to the latch were ran out too far and wouldn't let the latch return enough so the locks could engage. Sounds easy but that was a head scratcher! Worst of all is the windows. Got the Passenger side working pretty well but the left side is giving me fits. Window tips down in the frame on its way up. I've used this site to search on the adjustment and I'm sure I have all the adjustment I can to solve that problem but its still off. There is some slop in the track that the white roller bushings slide in. Best I can figure that slop is giving the window room to dip. I didn't have the roller guides on this car and now have those to install in the next day or so but I think that is more of a fix for the window leaning towards the outside. The white roller bearings/bushings are of course out of stock.

This is where I stopped taking pictures and got to work. Most everything else was just putting all the parts back on. Still more problems to come but mostly just annoying old car stuff.

All in all I am pleased with the Headers and exhaust from ZStory. I think the problem with the pipe angles has been addressed and the car sounds great to me. This is my first Zcar and I have never driven or been in another but it sounds very nice inside the car and out. Has enough sound to make it tough but not enough to wizz the neighbors off! IMG_5627.MOVIMG_5648.MOVIMG_5649.MOV