JHzcar

this did not happen, instead i advanced the existing cam by 4 more degrees, grabbed a set of stock head bolts from oriellys and my friend helped me remove the broken ARP head bolt, got the engine back in the car and it fired up on open headers and no tune whatsoever, but the cam definitely sounds different from the last time with open headers, sounds like hot for teacher now! had to leave for school before i could drive it, but ill be back in less than 3 weeks where ill get things dialed in right. i just want to drive the car, beyond any modifications i need seat time. im not driving around the understeer very well and its causing some very slow driving. i orginally believed that the car was too oversteer prone, but further review of old racing footage brought me to realize hat its the corner entry understeer, then when the front finally catches i have too much input to the steering and its being too hash on the rear for corner exit, and v8 power isnt helping that. plan of attack is learning the tendancies of the car, adjusting my driving style as best i can, amd then starting with moving the engine/transmission forward and backwards since i have about 3" of adjustment to play with. once i get them in a happy place balance wise i can start looking at swaybars and such. I'll try to update again after ive driven the car some. the debate for more power always exists, its pretty fun being able to put bus lengths on them fancy dodge hellcats from a 60-160, but thats just the car showing off and i want something more, i strive to be a better driver regardless of what car im in, and i think the z will help with that. i can also detune the engine at will, and when the car comes up to AZ next semester and sees 5500-8200ft of elevation the loss in hp will be significant, which wil force me to improve my driving to keep up, especially against some of the boosted cars we have up here. I'll also likely be switching to some cheap all seasons for AZ until the weather warms enough for the nittos to provide an advantage, i hope to use them as an opportunity to get better at driving near the limit, as well as learning the roads around here. i will not drive in the snow rain or on salted roads, the nittos just cant get enough heat in them when its cold out, which happens a lot around here. we have a mountain road that gets very twisty nearby and with the average age in this town being 55, the whole road is empty after 8pm, a few weeks ago 10pm i drove from one side to the other and back and didnt encounter a single other car for over an hour of driving, but that was in the truck which handled those corners impressively well all things considered. with regards to swaybars as i approach that step in coming months, do yall have any recommendations for swaybars? im looking at the 1-1/8" front and 1" rear or possibly 1" for both, but starting with modifying my stock ones to get a real world understanding of how it affects the car. for now im primarily focused on handling, ride quality doesnt matter, im young and my body can still take it. on that same note, is there any handling benefits to be had for swapping from polyurethane bushings to steel ball bearings on the control arms? none of these suspension thoughts are critical for now, just something to daydream about until i can get back to the car. ill try to upload some pics and possibly video later this week of engine assembly. thank y'all for your continued support and advice throughout the years

quick update, shifter is awesome with the full manual vb, I got a new carb proform 750, switched to a holley style carb with high speed airbleeds and more stuff i can tune. i started college, im at ERAU prescott studying aerospace engineering, learning a lot of good things that i can later apply to the car, and theres lots and lots of mountain roads around here so once the cars up here that should be fun. over the summer i did do more autoX racing and claimed a first place finish in my class by default(no one else was racing in my class) and ive been improving my handling, i adjusted all my ride heights for even height side to side and even camber, and slightly less rake to keep the back end a lil more planted, illl document my handling journey as i gain more seat time and can hit my now local mount roads more often. i blew a headgasket before leaving for college, caught it early enough that there wasnt any damage, but i snapped a headbolt on reassembly so ill deal with that when i get home for thanksgiving. going to rebuild with head studs and mls headgaskets, and gonna swap to a much bigger cam, 4/7 swap with 250ish duration and .530ish lift, solid lifter ect. i also have nitrous if i need more speed, but i imagine i wont get much use out of it around here. i been looking at swaybars to help with the bodyroll, but theyre pretty expensive especially for a now broke college student, anyone have any experience with making their own for these cars? i was looking at doing like a splined setup but ill have to see, may just end up buying some anyways. ill upload pics when i get back to texas next week.

i think the v8 weighs similar or possibly less than the l28, no accessories, aluminum heads and intake ect, but the positioning sets it off, its not hard to slide the engine front or back an inch or so to help balance, i just really need to start with a full day and a set of scales, the car has a little bit of a lean towards the driverside and a lot of rake, but i haev adjustable height on all 4 corners and i can move the engine around to help get it dialed just right, i think if i get 4 bathroom scales i can stack wood under the other 3 tires and balace the cat corner by corner.

finally got this car onto the autocross course!! super fun stuff, only real issue im fighting is just keeping the #5 wire from arcing onto the header, its too close to the plug to even fit an actual boot or sleeve, much less a ceramic one, so ive been experimenting with heat shrink and it works for a while but eventually will tear around an edge or something. as far as autocrossing the car, it definitely needs some dialing in, the car is very raw, rowdy and unrefined, as to be expected with a v8z driven by a 17 year old. i live on dirt roads so keeping everything set is near impossible, but if i can get my suspension set evenly then i can work on effectively setting tire pressures. i met another racer with a turbo L28 280zx, and his car was a lot better around the cones than mine, he had a lot better and a lot more dialed in suspension setup. ill try to upload videos from the past 2 events ive gone to, if youve never done autocross before, get out there and do it! so so so much fun! IMG_2686.MOV IMG_2687.MOV IMG_2782.MOV IMG_2786.MOV

cm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:2:0.MOV cm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:1:0.MOV cm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:0:0.MOV trans got back in the car, it drives and shifts great! the shifter i had before kept skipping 2nd so i ordered a new one thats gated and it should be bitchin! also got a new tv cable and shift cable so i been working on installing that. car has purple one way tints that look gorgeous! timing was set at 35 total and hadnt slipped but its breaking up at rpm so im looking at my carburetor to figure out whats up. i drove it to the first day back to school and didnt get pulled over this time so im quite happy! ill update when i get it tuned right cm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:1:0.MOVcm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:2:0.MOVcm-chat-media-video-1:4808e0eb-ec57-519d-a198-2dc2384e2854:7690:0:0.MOV

PETG, it has good resistance to gasoline and should be ok with the temps, if it has issues then i can switch materials and resolve it. i’m currently soaking a sample part in E10 gasoline for a few days to see how it reacts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

quick update, realized i haven’t updated this in a while. july 25th: i figured out my jetting issue was timing, my distributor slipped and it had 12* total, i’m surprised it even ran. also trans gave up transmission: i blew up my 4l60(700r4) which wasn’t shocking just disappointing, i was hoping it would last longer. fully disassembled and everything flushed ect, it burned the forward clutch and the band, and the lower planetary gear set was junk. upgrades coming: .500 boost valve, hardened sunshell, wide band, new frictions, unbreakable pump rings, 13vane pump, 2-3 shift kit and full manual valve body, and i’m gonna go for a 3500stall torque converter, just give it a little more jump off the line i also 3d printed a carb spacer, after i get it running consistently i plan on porting the intake, and building a custom header for the driver side, i can 3d print 1” sections that snap together and have angles ect to model it before i cut and weld stuff, but that’s after i’ve driven the car for a bit cuz i needa drive this damn car school has crushed me these past couple of months so i ain’t been able to work on the car like i’ve wanted, but when i get it back together i’m gonna be the fastest car at the school Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

its been a min since i posted an update so here goes, ill try and keep it semi in order and ill attach lots of pics cause itll be nice to look back n see the progress ive made. shortly after my last update i did the s13 coilover conversion, and noticed a significant improvement, next goal is to do sway bars but that will be a while. i shed 19lb up front and 7lb in the rear, while not really important it was interesting seeing the difference. i used the maxpeedingrods coilovers from ebay, and they've actually been decent, should i need to replace them they are quite cheap. i did the alignment myself, -2.7* on the front and the rear is whatever cause i cant adjust it yet, and i set it to 1/8" of toe out but ill move it closer to zero toe soon. i also added a bunch of rake to the car to offset the squat some and make the car look more how i want it to. carburetor: sunk a float and set the engine on fire, but i had a fire extinguisher on hand so im just cleaning up residue, nothing major got burned thankfully, i also have been trying to sort why my jetting changes dont affect performance and it always behaves like its lean especially when it gets hot, culprit is what i believe to be gasoline boiling inside the carb as heat from the intake manifold transfers and heats the carb, causing vaporlock. ill 3d print a plastic spacer to alleviate this issue hopefully. electrical: ignition wise i lost an icm inside my hei, replaced it and things got better, been having trouble with keeping all 8 cylinders firing but ill resolve it one day. i also updated/cleaned up some wiring, so its easier to sort in that regard. i tried to wire the tcc lockup on my 700r4 but its not working so ill check my wiring again and go from there, millions of different ways to wire a 700r4 lockup. timing at the dizzy also seems to randomly be slipping which is odd, gonna try a few things after its redialed in to resolve it. exhaust: i finally built a full system for it, i loved the open headers but after my ear dripped blood onto my shiny valvecover i had enough and decided it was time, i did dual 3" in to single 3" out with a nice borla atak muffler, it sounds literally exactly how i wanted it to so i couldn't be happier, and my ears dont ring after driving the car. ill try to attach video of it. transmission: dropped the transmission for the 3rd time this year, replaced the tail shaft seals and bushings, sealed up the governor cap and the dipstick tube so i now officially don't leak any fluids in noticeable amounts, which warms my heart. tires: currently on nitto nt05, 200tw tire and they actually have some grip, combined with the suspension upgrades this thing handles really well, but is very twitchy so i need to tone it back a bit. racing: i am officially signed up for my first autoX race on august 15th, im super excited, i been working hard trying to get the car dialed in enough to go race, so if i can pass tech then i will have a ton of fun, even if i break the car at the start line ill still be happy gonna try and add pics, feel free to ask questions or leave suggestions IMG_5335.m4v 64832813541__345AF4C7-37FE-4190-B4EE-1B1B2090E00B.m4v IMG_5247.m4v

finally got the car to run, and i drove it today, my what a blast that was until the trans died and i had to tow it home, and ****ed up my truck in the process. i had slack in the throttle cable so i could only get about half pull, but it would still break the tires loose in 3rd at 50mph, so time for better rubber, im getting some nitto nt05s installed tomorrow in a 235/40R17 front and a 275/40r17 rear so hopefully they will grip better. also note to future self if i need to replace the dizzy again i need to advance it more than i think. i did eventually get the lt1 longtube headers to fit my car, but its very far from just a bolt in and go kinda deal, definitely wouldn't advise unless you have more patience than a saint times 1000. if anyone wants a full writeup on what i did to make them fit i can post one, but itd really be so much better just to get a custom one made. also the car now leaks oil worse than it did before and its pissing me off, but its simples fixes, the first leaks are the fittings on my remote oil filter, i had to relocate to clear headers, but i was able to put the oil filter right behind the hole where the i6 airbox would've gone, allowing me to get somewhat of a cooling effect on the filter. the second issue is my valvecovers, the stamped steel dented around the bolt holes and lost any sealing capabilities so it leaks a fair bit onto the header, making a constant massive smokeshow and coating my windshield in oil. i ordered new valvecovers that are a cast aluminum so that they have a much thicker gasket surface that i can make seal better. after these areas are addressed it should seal, everything except those two has been sealing fine without issue my brother and i went to go look at an 82 for him, still with the original i6, it is in much better shape than mine was at first, so hopefully it works out for him, i think itll be cool both having Z's. he rode with me today as we were breaking it in and it was a lot of fun, hes been helping me these past few nights waking up at 7am and going to bed at 3am just trying to get the car done, and ive been appreciative of that i lost a trans cooler line while i was out and drained the transmission while i was driving, i think how much i abuse this trans is really proof that they arent as bad as people say they are if you do the necessary mods to them(bascially just a shift kit and up the line pressure some). ill replace the line with something better, change filter and inspect trans for damage and call it a day. in the process i had to trailer it home, and my dad forgot to lock the hitch to the ball, so when i drove onto the trailer it jumped up and slammed into my tailgate, it made me shed a manly tear, but it still opens and closes so im just gonna pretend the dent and hole in the tailgate doesn't exist, besides would it really be a toyota if i didn't constantly beat the stuffing out of it? ill upload some pics of the car and some videos of driving it, the videos are definitely a volume on deal with how nice the open headers sound, carb still needs some tuning but the engine only has 27miles on it, lots of mid throttle acceleration then letting the car engine brake to establish a good ring wear pattern, basically just running from 2000-4000 rpm with no more than half throttle, and a bunch of in between stuff, feel free to leave comments or ask questions cm-chat-media-video-TAQMBPnXfUwQnJBIj7xk2.mov cm-chat-media-video-9rCc9naPlQiGuZmTbwZO4.mov

quick update: engine has been fully assembled, only had to do some minor grinding on the block for clearance of the rod caps and bolts, and of course they forgot to send the flexplate so i had to wait for that after 3days of customer service calls, but they were nice so i didn't really care. i sealed everything to RacerX's advice so now the engine should hold oil as intended, lots of nice parts so i'm excited to get it running! Engine and trans are back in the car, currently working out how to make these headers fit, if i can get the driverside to fit then ill just use a blockhugger on the passenger side for the time being. i borrowed an oxy acetylene torch from a friend and the goal is the bend the collector slightly so that it stops hitting the frame rail allowing the header to bolt up, and i've made a sizeable dent in the primaries to clear the gearbox, but i'm out of oxygen so i'm waiting on another tank before i can finish that task. i drained the fuel cell today, gonna replace all of the rubber lines and the fuel pump. i installed a fuel pressure regulator as well so that i can monitor that and keep the carb from flooding at idle. car sits almost a full inch higher than before just from the amount of weight removed from it, and it has a much simpler look now which makes me happy. i'm gonna have to get a cage fairly soon, i'm thinking the jegs 12pt cage for the 240z and just modifying it slightly to fit the zx(if anyone has done this chime in with your experience), i have a good welder and a tubing notcher so install can only be so impossible, but that'll be a summer project. i attached some pics hopefully of the engine on the stand and of my girlfriend and i installing the engine and some misc snapchat stories from building the engine and stuff. ill update again when its making loud noises! 7cc84cb45e5a4665b672a3befbfb6e1b.MOV 0f2a0ce1d465479a8577d349edea3d71.MOV 849b93a74e8948a782d29384ba135b5d.MOV

you've owned lot of my dream cars, thats really really cool! the paint color i used is from tcp global, its called "Royal Crown Purple" https://tcpglobal.com/products/kus-umb-8011-qt_2, its a urethane based paint, i couldn't decide between red and blue and so purple seemed to be the best compromise. as far as transmissions i like the 700r4 but i do agree that a manual would a lot of fun, but i don't have the budget for that at the moment. however i will be putting a gated shifter on the transmission so i can choose and hold each gear similar to a manual, but it still won't quite be the same. maybe when i inevitably explode the 700r4 it'll get manual swapped. with sealing the chevy engines do you have any advice you could give? i'm replacing all the gaskets and cleaning all the surfaces beforehand but is there some secret tricks to make them last longer/seal better?

more when the oil pressure has a very slight surge at idle is when it’s time to top off, it only had a 5qt pan so it didn’t have to lose much to start surging Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

a few things, valvecovers leaked, timing cover leaked, the intake manifold by the distributor has a leak, there is a small pipe plug that rotted out and leaked, rear main seal leaked and the valve guide seals on the heads were old and rotten so it burned a fair bit as well. but i have the engine fully apart now and a full gasket set ready so it shouldn’t leak a drop once i’m done with it :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

unfortunately not yet, as up until now the car leaked about a quart of oil every 30 miles and it still wouldn't come close to passing a tech inspection, and track time is fairly expensive so its a little further down the line of places to drive. however i live on some very twisty roads that are plenty of fun!

so i pulled the engine a lil while ago and tore it down, every rod bearing had some pretty nasty damage and i had detonation marks on two of the pistons. heads were fine so i sold them since i wouldn't be using them anymore. the block has been stripped and rotates in and out of the parts washer, the block isn't too heavy so i'm able to pick it up and put it in and out with relative ease, but it did damage the tray for the parts washer so i'm gonna build a new one. i plan on building it as a small cam big head type of motor so that i have room to grow later on. exhaust headers is the big hiccup i'm trying to sort out, i'm gonna try and make a set of lt1 longtube headers for like a 93-97 camaro fit, with 1 7/8" primaries they can take a little hammering around the steering gearbox if needed for clearance, since the motor pulls away from the gearbox they can be pretty close. i got a borla muffler specced specifically for a 383 so it'll sound really nice too. i'm also re doing a fair bit of wiring to clean things up, and i removed everything behind the dash except for like gauges and stuff so if anyone needs some ac parts let me know cause i don't have a use for them. i'm also removing whatever insulation stuff was there against the firewall because when i held a flame to it it created a bigger fire and i'm not very fireproof. i am also planning to do a cheap s13 coilover conversion in place of camber plates since the s13 coilovers have adjustable top hats already and id like a much stiffer springrate for the rear especially with the beefier engine. overall im very excited to continue building this car and making it faster. my build plan for the motor is as follows(let me know if something with this combo seems wildly off or something): promaxx 225cc IR aluminum heads with 2.02 valves, full 383 rotating assembly with flexplate and harmonic balancer matched to the rotating assembly, 1.5 roller tip rockers with grooved balls for better oiling, lunati barebones cam, 224/234 duration @ .050" 110LSA and 480/488 lift (int/exh), high volume normal pressure oil pump, aftermarket oil pan with windage tray and 7qt capacity, weiand single plane intake manifold(i might port it if it becomes a restriction), edelbrock 600cfm carb(only carb i have will upgrade to a 750cfm when the budget allows it) and lt1 headers if i can make them fit, 3in collectors into a 3in y for exhaust, valve springs are 115lbs closed pressure and 310lbs at .575" lift. im aiming for 9.5-10:1 compression ratio and a wider ring gap incase i decide to run boost or nitrous later on, arp bolts for everything important, 2 bolt main block but ive seen them make decent power when built properly, and the rpms wont exceed 6500 to help keep things together. the horsepower calculator estimates around 500hp for this setup, but with mechanical water pump and alternator and 600cfm carb i estimate closer to 450 ish, which will be more than enough for a street/strip/roll race car. torque converter has a 2500 stall speed so drag style launches wont be anywhere near enough power to really be breaking things, and if i do blow a diff i have another diff and axle set sitting on the shelf. i also have a full set of drilled and slotted rotors with semi metallic pads that will be going on the car very soon. im also trying to sort out a speedometer situation, i think ill end up using an 85mm gps speedometer with a 3d printed adapter to fit the hole so that i can know how much to slow down before the speed traps, theres a few spots where cops hide on back roads because theres lots of wineries and breweries so drunk drivers are frequent on the weekends so i don't drive much at night on the weekends anymore. i have a lot of ideas about the car and what i want to do with it and what direction i wanna go, i just gotta get there. its a beautiful car and its become truly my car and not just another z. i have a youtube channel that i'm gonna try and upload to more often, i have one video up from the top end disassembly (https://youtu.be/wzP2thSjRtQ). im also trying to change out the shifter to a gated shifter instead of the stock 3 speed auto shifter for the zx so that i can have better shift command, and so that i can keep the drivability it has on the street while also having the option of running it to 6500 if i so choose. if anyone has any questions feel free to ask or if someones got some advice i'm missing let me know. i have a rear strut bar that my seatbelts connect to and im gonna make a new front strut bar similar to the one apex engineered makes for the s30 to help up front as well, as even with stock struts and old tires i could feel the difference the previos one made on handling. IMG_2222.MOV

i got some led off of amazon for like $90 (“vouke H6024 7 inches Round Black Cree LED Headlight High Low Beam fit for Wrangler JK TJ LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2 etc, Replace 7 inch Round Sealed Beam Headlamps,Pack of 2” was the full title on amazon) same headlights that the jeep’s use, they’re very bright, but they have a really nice cutoff for the low beams so that unless you’re looking right into it it’s not super blinding, and the high beams are awesome! i drive mostly at night to avoid any people on the roads and they work great, the only downside was figuring out the wiring, because whatever headlight wiring was in my car did not plug in and play with the headlights (the car has had a tough life so it could just be mine that’s wired wierd) but i bought a $3 relay from oriellys and made it work with very minimal wiring skills. the very white tone of the light is also very good for showing the contrast on the road of the minor bumps,cracks and rocks you otherwise wouldn’t see in the daytime. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so i painted the car about 2 weeks ago, and it looks really good and i’m happy with it. also be weary with the mask you use and make sure your filters are good even if they’re brand new, i used some brand new organic vapor cartridges which were recommended for what i’m doing and should have been more than capable of filtering, but one failed and i was blowing purple snot for 3 days on top of the side effects from the chemical exposure. i do have a lil touch up i have to do along the roofline from my trim coming off and disappearing into the wind, but it’s largely unnoticed and i can always fix it later. first time driving it i was very excited and immediately got pulled over, just a warning but i’m now on a first name basis with the cop. i also dropped the gas tank below the car and lowered the cg which improved handling tremendously. with regards to the paint quality, the finish is good, but there is some minor orange peel in the clear coat that will buff right out, and i made the mistake of not allowing enough flashtime between coats for the clear (my first time ever painting my car) and as a result the clear is still fairly soft, but should harden up soon. i’ve been keeping it in a heated barn at night to help keep it warm while the solvent evaporates from the paint and hardens the clear. overall i’m very happy with the car, and i’m very excited to drive it more. it rarely gets below freezing where i live so the car will be fun to drive around during christmas break. i’m also gonna try and pull the engine sometime soonish and rebuild it with better cylinder heads and set it up to take some nitrous, my goal is around 450hp with air and 500-550+ on the sauce. i almost never do drag launches so i think my diff will be able to handle the higher power. i also have new tires and a proper roll cage happening before the engine gets faster. i’m really excited about this build, and i’m really happy with how it looks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so i decided to prioritize painting the car, so i’ve spent the past 3months or so doing body work and trying to get most of the body straight. given that the car is an expression of myself, i am keeping certain reminders of past mistakes as momentos of what the cars beginnings were in my eyes. would other people think it’s dumb and makes no sense? yeah, but that doesn’t matter to me. overall the sbc swap i have has been running good, but leaks/burns a lot of oil, so sometime around christmas i’d like to put new heads on it (my valve guides are roasted and swap from 305 heads to a set of aluminum heads could bring upgrades) and rebuild it to replace every gasket and see what condition the internals are in before i start trying to make a lot of power out of it. the car at the time of this post is in primer, and it will be painted after i’m satisfied with the body and the shape of the primer. after i paint it im gonna put a decent set of tires on, and do some alignment parts. a set of camber plates for the front and for the rear i know a company that will be releasing parts to allow adjustments of the rear(camber, toe, wheel centering) I’m not supposed to give out a lot of details but when it’s released i’ll make a post about it cause i’m pretty sure it’ll be the first available alignment kit for the rear of our cars. overall i’m happy with the build and i’m excited to paint it, and put a fresh windshield in it. i’ll update this post again after it’s painted and i take pictures of the paint!

so it’s been a while since i updated what i’ve done to the car, i swapped to roller tip rockers, i’ve tuned the carb a lot, i added lights and i took the transmission out and installed a shift kit and did some other things to make it last longer, i put a new radiator and alternator and water pump in, i’m about to do new motor mounts and tires, i’m looking at a set of falken azenis rt660s in 205/40-17 and 255/40-17, i put in a new front u joint on the driveshaft, and i put a new caliper on the rear. it runs and drives great and handles pretty well, but could use some help with the camber of the wheels. next up after tires is a set of good cylinder heads and a roll cage. i bought a parts car today, a 1980 2+2 280zx that i’ll use for body pannels when i repaint my car. it came with a set of stock datsun 4lug wheels if anyone wants them lmk. overall i’m much happier with my car than i ever thought i’d be. it’s definitely still a work in progress, but the end is in sight!

you raise a really good point, i have made it somewhat better with 4pt seatbelts and better seats, but i do plan on installing a full cage when i have it apart for paint, as these cars are not great on safety Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so i redid all of the suspension bushings with prothane bushings, new tie rods ball joints and a new center link, since the zx center link is $340 i took a chance on a 810 center link and it works fine, but the steering wheel is not straight(if you use a 5/6 bolt aftermarket wheel you could move it one bolt and it be straight) even with the wheel off it drives a whole lot better, and the camber is a lot less now, a press makes quick work of bushings and then they pop right in without issues. the actual datsun part of the car has been quite well and working great, but i’ve had continued valve train issues with the small block. most of which are my fault but it’s nothing that’s unfixable, my biggest issues were a few of my stock stamped steel rockers exploding while i was cruising after several 6500+rpm pulls, and the increased heat causing enough expansion to create a bind issue. with that i’ve installed better studs and i’ll have a fresh set of aftermarket rockers this week, just in time for a show on friday. i also need a new radiator but mine isn’t leaking enough yet to warrant the cost of a new one. once i get the motor dialed in better i’ll drop the transmission out for a few upgrades, 3-4 clutch pack, shift kit and new governor, and around the same time a proper exhaust system instead of a side dump before the rear axle with only a glass pack to muffle it. overall just making a little bit of progress each and every day, eventually it’ll be painted and running great for an extended period of time, instead of working for a week then stuck in the shop for 3 weeks... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ok so i replaced the cam(lunati barebones cam, (.480/.488 and 224/234@.050” 110lsa), ported the heads and did some minor other work and tuned the carb and such, added an o2gauge got new pushrods and did a bunch of work and now it runs great and drives well, has in the ball park of about 300-350 hp at the wheels, and it’s a blast to drive, spins the tires from a dead stop all the way to 60 if you’re not careful. next up is to replace all of the suspension bushings and tie rods and stuff to make the handling much tighter, really just waiting on the time to do it cause i enjoy driving it too much now to have the desire to make it better just yet... once i settle into online classes i’ll have time and i’ll get it done, and i’ll take pictures along the way. cam is still fresh so i haven’t gotten her up past about 110mph @ 5500rpm but with the setup i have it should carry all the way to about 7000rpm and 130mph without too much trouble once i get the cam really settled in. i also deleted the power steering as it would just leak constantly and would stop working anyways when it was warm, so it’s just manual steering, and having not driven a car like that before it’s an interesting experience, it’s a different connection to the road that i haven’t felt before. overall really excited for this car and i can’t wait to update y’all more! IMG_2536.MOV IMG_2531.MOV IMG_2527.MOV IMG_2581.MOV IMG_2578.MOV IMG_2612.MOV

so another update, car handles great except my power steering is mysteriously failing me when warm, heads are currently off as i’m swapping in a new cam (ruined a lobe on the current one) and working ok the heads a bit(minor porting and screw in rocker studs) i took it to cars and coffee and met a guy with an s30 that had a turbocharged 305 swap. i’ll upload some pictures, and if anyone has some cam suggestions feel free to let me know, bone stock 350 with intake and minor porting. IMG_2175.MP4 IMG_1817.MOV IMG_2162.MOV IMG_2175.MP4

alright so i’ve had the car for a bit now and i’ll update everything i’ve done to it so i can keep track, redid most of the wiring for the engine portion, rebuilt carb, fixed detent cable, redid carb throttle cable to get full throttle pull, replaced alternator, replaces swaybar end links, eibach lowering springs, bled brakes with new fluid, added a 160 thermostat and flushed cooling system, replaced a broken pushrod, changed oil twice(water got in the engine and had to change it again) changed diff fluid (did a burnout and found out it’s an lsd) fresh plugs and wires, added extra lights to the bumper for nighttime, fixed some exhaust leaks and fixed a hole in the radiator. runs good but the transmission is not setup to match the engine, and high speed is a bit sketchy. i’ve burned through a set of brakes already so once that’s fixed i’m gonna work on tightening up the suspension bushing and tie rods and such and then it’s on to go fast parts. high speed is also a relative term cause i’ve only had it up to about 100mph.