bluez

Pics would help. Motor mounts reversed would not move engine forward. Either wrong clutch, or you stated car has stock radiator, are you positive?

Yes.

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Given the critically of the shock tower, and stresses of suspension, I’d go with plug welding the entire tower over butt welding the upper and lower pieces. Just my 2 cents..

Great video. The guy said it makes about twice the h/p of original Z, as well as about 1100kg (2425lbs) around 120lbs heavier.

I try to minimize cutting and welding long sections whenever possible. Looks like there are about 40 spots that would need to be cut to r&r the entire tower. May take a bit longer, but would be my preference.

Wow, cutting the tower seems pretty gutsy. Would have thought drilling out the weld’s would be easier.

Original cracked dash was probably replaced with a later one. Back when dashes were readily available.

When I got my Z a few years ago, it had been sitting for a few decades (under 2k miles in 37 years). I dropped the fuel tank, cleaned it out (luckily it was in great shape). While it didn’t really it, I used POR-15 tank sealer, only cause I had previously bought it. Then I replaced nearly every hose, rubber, seal, gasket, and suspension part. I think the biggest surprise was that the motor actually ran, prior to me replacing the fuel filter and replacing the carb gas filters. They were completely clogged up with orange rust. The fuel filter was replaced 3 times before it finally stayed clean. If you need braided hose’s I used Bel-Metric in Mass. For buying/selling I’ve never had an issue with PayPal.

Came out very nice, that’s quite an improvement..

Here’s what I found. The first stripe next to the p/n is almost gone, the second one is visible, as is the third stripe.

Did some more undercoating removal today my 12/70 ends with 4102, so a later version of 4101. What’s different about the p/n’s? Regarding the yellow stripes I found 2 before the p/n, and a third on the drivers side

After seeing your pic I did some uncovering on mine. Did some cleaning to remove 54 yr old undercoating and found the p/n’. The rear differential assembly is the only thing I haven’t yet taken apart to clean.

The wheel wells look pretty good, but that front drivers side took a beating. That’s going to take some major time and finesse.

Yep, noticed the fan swap (mine still has the original patina ivory), as well as the earlier valve cover which adds a nice touch. The emission sticker came out great.

Agreed, it’s very rare to see an accurate representation of what an original Z looked like under the hood. One question, I don’t recall seeing a label on Z alternators, was that original?

140lb gauges were still used in 1/71 cars.

Pretty sure all early Z’s had higher oil pressure gauge, someone probably swapped it out with a later one.

Noticed the oil pressure gauge only goes to 90lbs, not 140?

How did you weld it, mig?

Those quarters look to be in very good shape, where did this car come from?

Nice job on the glass.

Looking at the pic from the top side I don’t see why it would be so difficult to weld. Use lower heat to minimize burn through and allow cool down in between passes.

It’s cast.

That’s pretty amazing a dealer after 44 yrs still had a new m/c. My 12/70 has the same casting. Note there a few places that will bore and re-sleeve cylinders.