bluez

Another early one that didn’t make reserve. This one looked to be done exceptional well, body work, paint, engine, interior, all looked good. The only minus was the crappy looking frame rails, they certainly didn’t help, should be removed asap.

Thought it would have gone higher (60k), especially with low miles, and extra parts. Seller should have spent some time fixing the small thing, would have a difference. I’d love to get 4 of those hub caps.

So they have a nice original car, and remove the fuel rail and replace it with hose an nylon tie wraps. Wouldn’t have taken much effort needed to clean it out. Incredible..

Agreed, I had a bolt and welded a nob on the end, then ground it down close to the original. Will be looking a new rod for long term.

Okay, progress made I think.. Pulled m/c off booster and rechecked the push rod. Found it was about 4.5mm instead of the 3.5mm. I think my previous measurement was off due to the m/c being in the way of my ruler. 🤬 This time I made sure the ruler was level & square against the pushrod rod. So that resolved that issue. So all I needed to do was screw the bolt in 1mm. Easier said then done. Found that when I previously removed the bolt last year, it was frozen, had to resort to some heat to loosen it. Well turns out that between being in place for 50 years and too much heat caused the bolt to twist a bit, so it can no longer be screwed in that extra 1mm. Ended up making a new bolt to the fit inside the m/c. With everything back in place, took car for ride without using brakes to confirm no more dragging. Got home all 4 sides were cool. Went out again for a quick drive, this time using brakes. Got home it appears all is good. Will take a longer ride tomorrow to confirm. Zed Head was right on target. Thanks to all for the input. My goal is to keep car 100% original (other then points/coil) so will be sticking with the original m/c. Now if I could just find 4 “D” hubcaps..

Per the FSM it states “the measurement between the face of the mounting flange and the end of the pushrod is between 0.138 and 0.177 in (3.5 to 4.0mm)”. There’s no way to adjust down to 0.020.

Thanks for everyone’s suggestions. Okay, so took car for a 5 mile drive, without using brakes. Got home and found only front passenger side disc was slightly warm. The other 3 sides were basically cool. So this confirms something is causing both front and rears to not fully release after applying pressure. Leaves me to think the m/c is causing the issue, as I don’t think the differential switch could cause brakes to bind. The person I bought the m/c had said it had recently been rebuilt. It appeared fine when I took it apart. Does anyone know where I can order new seals? Someone is selling a kit for early Z’s on eBay, but it includes new reservoir caps that I don’t need.

Had previously replaced all 4 rubber lines as part of refresh.

Thanks for all suggestions. Yes, am thinking pressure maybe being released to slowly, thus causing binding and heat. Will take a drive using e-brake only. So if there is residual pressure, what’s the root cause for all 4 brakes getting hot? M/C or differential switch?

Had checked all bearings last winter when everything was disassembled, cleaned and repacked them. Issue started after redoing brake system. Even rechecked the brake push rod to 3.5mm spec.

Will check temps tomorrow. Previously checked wheels, the fronts spin freely, about 1.5 rotations with minimal effort.

Hi guys, Seem to be having an issue with brakes getting too hot, on my 12/70 Z. This occurs when barely using them. The front rotors get very hot, so much that the wheel hub is almost to hot to touch. While the rear drums get a bit warm. This happens after a short drive, 10-15 miles. Car will easily roll without resistance. I have the early style original Tokico m/c (recently installed) and Nabco differential brake switch. Car previously had a Sanyco m/c, which I swapped out for the original. So is it normal for brakes to be hot, when not using them?

Very nice Z, should do well. 25k miles is rare. Floor pans look great. Odd that they didn’t go with original fuel lines, pump,etc. Thought the air cleaner was on earlier models, my Z is also a 12/70 build but has the later “summer/winter flap?

That frame rail patch is a scary sight, wonder what’s under it.. I believe original was 22 gauge, using screws is crap.. While most of the car appears original, who knows what’s hidden, pic #160 shows more questionable work.. But those hub caps are sure nice..

Check out Por-15 Fuel Tank Sealer. https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B00V98E918?reviewerType=all_reviews

I missed those pics as well, so much for a quality restoration. Those welds are horrible. As previously mentioned one can only wonder what other hidden surprises exist.

With all the great work done on the restoration, there were several small misses. The interior work on the seats, door panels, shock towers, etc was not very good. Under hood braided lines should have been sourced. Details held it back, should have gotten close to 60k.

A good source for braided hoses is Belmetric in Ma, they offer many sizes, with great pricing. For cleaning and sealing a tank, Por15 works well.

No Blue’s here. This car shows very nice and was restored to a high degree.

Yes this one, had a lot going for it. Was nicely done. Here’s another nice one, paint all original except for hood. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-227/

Watched this auction and was surprised bidding almost reached $60k. Yes, it has a low vin, and nice paint, but it’s missing alot.. Different head, seat coverings, alternator, hoses, most rubber bits, etc.

Yes, when pedal is depressed about half way the booster push rod will cause M/C to bottom out. The pic shown, shows the adjustment bolt out about 3/16’s, needed torch to get it loose. Will put everything back together and try again tomorrow. Where there different types of brake boosters used for these M/C’s?

The Tokico M/C is 7 11/16” long, the Sanyco is 8” long. The biggest difference between them is there is about 1 11/16” less travel with the Tokico.