ernesto

I know this is an old post but can anyone confirm Zed Heads opinion regarding the following? Zed, do you still have the same opinion? I just installed all new bushings (Energy Suspension) on the rear of my 280z, I did not have the weight on the wheels when I torqued the rear control arm. Is this a problem? Also.........slightly different question: I did not grease the outside of the rear inner control arm (transverse link) bushings. For some reason because they are sandwiched between the frame and diff mount front member (forward ones) and the mounting rear bracket (aft ones) I didn't consider it. Should I take the time to uninstall to grease them, Do they need it? (this is just the outside of the bushing. The inside is greased) Thank you, E

JTO, I have not road tested as I am in the middle of the rear brakes getting upgraded to disc's. It may be a while due to the fact that I have to get 15" wheels due to the mod. The car has 14's on it now. I will report back when I do. I can tell you that I do not have any gap between the snubber and the diff.... E

S30Driver, That worked as advertised. I ran the ignition in start for 10 seconds with the lead to the S terminal of the starter/solenoid disconnected. Then reconnected the starter S lead and the car started on the first turn! Thanks! Dutchzcarguy, I put 2 1/2 gallons in an empty tank and the car started. E

JTO, The diff is installed and the method I used (previous post) to measure for the snubber worked well. E

S30Driver, Sounds good! Thanks for the information. Definitely, I used the proper clamps. E

I recently had the fuel tank refurbished on my 1975 280Z (fuel injection). I’m also going to put on a new OEM fuel pump. It has had both of them off for about six months, so I’m wondering when I put the gas tank and fuel pump on do I need to bleed any lines or just let the fuel pump do its work. I have no experience with fuel injection. Thanks E

Thank you for all the advice. I came up with yet another way to get the measurement for the snubber. I installed the RT mount without the snubber in place, then I installed the diff with the mustache bar and front mounting member to the car. The area where you need to measure is very hard to get to if you are working on jack stands. You can't see the area clear enough to get a straight on measurement. So from the right wheel well I was able to take a two inch nail and drop it through the hole where the snubber mounts, resting the nail on top of the diff where the snubber will eventually touch. Then with a sharpie I was able to strike a line on the nail where it came through the RT mount. That gave me a very accurate distance between the top of the diff and the RT mount. Am I missing anything?? I have not permanently installed the mount yet, so I will report back. E

Yes, I was planning on using my floor jack to raise the diff into place. So with the mustache bar on the diff and the diff mount front member on the front of the diff, I will raise it into place and take the measurement. Sounds simple enough, just trying to avoid any unnecessary pitfalls. Thanks very much, E

Going to revisit this thread.......... I am going to install an RT mount/snubber on my 1975 280Z. I have the whole rear suspension and diff out. So it's the perfect time. The instructions indicate that with the diff removed it is the easiest way to do this. Makes sense. But I am looking for information from someone who has done this. While having the diff out of the car makes it very easy to install the RT mount, the instructions tell you to then install the diff so you can measure the space from the mount to the top of the diff so that you can trim the snubber the correct length, okay, got it. Here is where I need help.....the instructions then tell you to remove the mount so that you can install the trimmed snubber. Then reinstall the mount permanently Do you need to remove the diff again to do this the easy way? I don't see how you can lower the diff to make space. I haven't tried yet, and I want to start off with clear idea of how this will go. Thank you for any help! E

Clyde60, Did you go with the Stage 1 from thezstore for your rear brake conversion? I'm looking at options for my 1975 280z. Just started researching. Thanks, E

Captain Obvious, thank you for the list! I will keep it in the event I go in that direction. One of the many decisions forthcoming. I'm going to start looking at conversions soon. Jeff G, Good intel on the various availability of brake set ups.

Removed the backing plates! Used some Deep Creep and then hit it a couple of times with a rubber mallet. Came right off. I have the whole rear suspension apart. I plan on replacing all of the bushings, new struts, spring and new brakes. I have not decided whether to go with the disc brake upgrade or not. If I don't, I will put new backing plates on and will definitely look into the 77-78 style. Everything needs replaced so the better wheel cylinders sound like a good idea. .

Thanks for the pics! That is exactly what I was looking for. I also take photos every step of the way for my own reference. It really helps to be able to look back at something you worked on weeks ago, especially when you are putting it back together for the first time. As far as how I take the pics......I use Nitrile gloves to work on almost everything so the hands stay clean. I'm always pulling them off to take pics. E

In the 1975 280Z FSM the torque on the mustache bar bolts is 54-69 ft-lb. I would think the torque wouldn't be much different on the 240Z.

Trying to get the Drum Brakes Backing Plate off of the strut assembly on my 1975 280z. The strut is off of the car and the stub axle is removed and well as the companion flange. The four bolts on the backing plate have been removed as well as the brake line. The backing plate and the axle tube appear to be one piece due to rust. I'm pretty sure they are two separate pieces but I don't want to damage anything using an air chisel to separate them. Can anyone confirm this? Really appreciate it! E