Ed Brock

Thanks, I reread my post and discovered a typo. When I was saying empty was 0, I missed the 9. (should have written 90 not 0). Opps. Thanks for the refresher. Nice drawing however. Where did you find that picture? Ed

Early '71 240. I am trying to find out the ohms reading for the fuel sending unit to fuel gauge. We have installed a AutoMeter Ultra Lite gauge that reads 0-73 ohms. Part of the problem is the person at Auto Meter states that 0 is empty and 73 is full. Then, I spoke with some one else at Auto Meter (for a different matter) and they say they own a 240, and the sending unit is 0-90 ohms but the gauge we installed is a 90-0 ohms. What is the ohm's on the 240 fuel sending unit? Which is the empty reading (should be 0 I believe). Thanks Ed

Now now. Remember, I'm an OLD DINOSOUR. Tell me have to post (in detail) on this site and I will. Customer would like the feed back (so would our shop). I know how to send on Gmail, but that is my limit. We have LOTS of pictures of this build, I'll only use a few however. Ed

Your white Z looks a lot like the Z we started working on 3 years ago. Only you have a rear hatch installed, ours was only a rolling chassis. This car also has the Rota wheels in dark gray and 16". Nice wheels, no mileage on them also, but they are about 4-5 years old. Holding up nicely in the shop. Ed

A big THANK YOU to all how have helped get this issue resolved. What was the problem? Well, we goofed when cleaning the rear quarter panel wiring harness connecters (never removed from the car when it went to the paint shop). We never checked ohms on the defroster wires. Should have. That would have solved the problem. As for the problem, it was a disconnected/broken wire some where inside the quarter panel wiring harness. We ran a new wire from the 6 pin Molex connector to the kick panel area, from the firewall up to the rear defroster wire and connected it to the rear window. That SIMPLE job, required removing the passenger kick panel, seat, door sill kick plate and passenger rear quarter panel cover. Then fishing a wire under the carpet and out the hole in the carpet where the wires enter into the rear quarter panel. Then up the quarter panel and out the roof opening. EASY right? NO!!! The owner did have the car's FSM. He found them and we found some answers to my questions. Combined with information from 7tooZ and 240260280 as well as others, I have all of my questions answered. One of my questions was, does the rear defogger wires get all of the 12volts? The answer on THIS car (a early '71 model without a rear defroster relay) is no. It is reduced down to 6volts. How it is reduced is not mentioned. So, we added a resister (hiding it was easy) that drops the volts down to 6 volts. Plus a lot of testing as things progressed, just to make sure no problems developed in that dam wiring. Now, when you activate the rear defroster switch, you have power to the rear defroster. Also, if you scroll up to 7tooZ's pictures of the red/black wire combined with a black wire is for the "step light". Hope that helps some of you. Now, we are just waiting on the jets and the plastic pins that hold the rear quarter panel trim and the overhead light panel trim in place. Then we can finish the car, Hopefully in time, on his B. Day in about 2 weeks. Thank you again for all of your help. Ed

Hi, I'm new to this site. I'm very impressed with the knowledge on this site. My question is about the rear window defroster on a EARLY '71 240. This car does not have a defroster relay. Does the rear window defroster wires get a full 12v? Is it resisted down and if it is what is the voltage at the wires? 7tooZ has supplied me with great information and thought I should ask the members. I just have this one question left so I can finish this job. Thanks Ed

Thanks will do. Have fun on your cruse in. Ed

Thank you. Your picture is the same as what I am talking about. I figured it had to be for the step light today. Only thing that made any since. I found the problem with the rear defroster (finally). The wire has been disconnected from the right side rear loom. In my research I found where that wire has a bullet connection on it as it connects to the rest of the rear loom (thank you spare wiring loom) as it goes through to the inside body panel. That wire is no-longer connected to any part of the car! I'm not sure which red/black wire in the loom is the rear defroster wire. If I wanted to undo all of the rear lighting wires I could easily find it. Not worth the time to do that. What we did was fish a new wire through the body and connected it to the rear defroster wire. Naturally we used the correct wire coding. Now the only thing left to is connect the new wire to the 6 pin Molex connector and put the car back together. That issue solved. What a pain, that's what we get for not checking the continuity of that one wire. Over all, not bad as that one has been the only bad wriing issue we have had in all of the changes to this car. One more question, Oh 240 knowledgeable one. Is the rear defroster receiving full 12v's or does it have a inline resister? I have read some do, some don't. Not really clear sort of like the relays to the rear defroster's for these cars. Thanks again for your time and knowledge. Ed

Good Morning, nice to see another early morning raiser. You are so correct again. There are 2 three Molex connectors by the climate controller. Both do what you say they do. I made sure that the correct 3 pin Molex is connected to the proper item, Question for you, have you seen in your car or anyone's car a red/black wire joined by the factory to a black wire? This connection is a female spade with the factory clear plastic cover on it. The wire is located by the passenger's kick panel. I believe it is used more of a grounding wire then a power distributing wire. What is the best way to ID these cars? I'm a Chrysler guy at heart, those I know. Great job getting your camera up inside the dash to get a picture. Ed

The center light in the fuse box cover lid I mentioned is the seat belt light. The 3 pin connector from the rear defroster switch (we changed that connector from a male to a female as the original harness had a male connector on it already. The connector changes the green/red wire to a blue/white wire, that wire goes into a 6 pin connector. That 6 pin connector is where the heater motor gets it power from. Ed

7tooZ, Yes to all of your questions. The wiring harness that goes from the passenger side door to the rear of the car inside the body was not removed from the car body when striped to go to the paint shop. The rest of the original harness that came with the car, has been taken apart, checked for flaws and all connectors cleaned. The dash harness is from a new factory dash for a series 1 (NOS dash). The heater motor wiring harness (hope that clarifies the matter) is from an unknown source. I think a series 2 or 3 car. The fuse box covers and switch is exactly what your pictures show. We have remover the choke light and center light.(not in use on this car, plus we needed the room). The radio antenna and drivers side wiring that runs inside the body to the rear of the car also was not removed when it was striped. Thanks Ed.

Thanks, I know what they look like I think I know where Datsun hide them. Just don't know if I should look for a 3rd one. Thanks for help. Ed

THANK YOU ALL. Great information. I'm a bit over whelmed with this issue. First off, When we started this project it was a rolling chassis. The current owner has purchased 2 other cars for parts. What I mean by a rolling chassis is it had 4 wheels, struts and brakes rotors (brakes not hooked up to the 4 wheel disc brake setup that was installed), a motor (block and head only), transmission (T5) and a rear-end (R200). The main body was a shell, absolutely nothing attached to it, or inside it. We have been working very part time on this car for 3 years now. It is almost a finished project. This car came with A/C. We deleted the A/C. The customer states this car is a series 1 (that issue has been confirmed, it is a series 1 car body). I believe (from schematics) and the fact that the previous owner, who disassembled the car, and had the foresight to mark all of the connection, that the main wiring harness is also a series 1. We could not use the series 1 center console (a rear defrost switch that is black in color and not lighted) because of the T5 transmission with a short throw linkage. The hole in the series 1 console would not match up AT ALL with the new trans shifter. So we installed a series 2 or 3 console (unsure which one). Still needed to build a shifter arm extension. As this project progressed, we found we had no way of hooking up the upgrade to a Honda heater motor. In a pile of wires we found the heater motor wire connector. Some slight wire end changes and were in business (the heater motor now works). Remember, we did not hook up the A/C wiring. I mention this because it could be apart of our problem. I should mention, we used the correct color coded wiring (we had 2 wiring harness to cut up and get the correct wire colors/ends from). We also used correct colored heat shrunk on the sawdered wires. Anal, yes, but that what we do. Okay now, found the problem with the rear window defrost switch (bad contacts). Cleaned and the switch now works. We send power to it, we get power from green/red wire. We DON'T get power to the rear window. Checked the ground side of the rear defroster it's good. So, back to the drawing board. Hooked up a OHM meter to the red/black wire at the rear window went looking for the other end of that wire, can't find it. Removed the upgraded glove box (plastic not cardboard). Hooked OHM meter from the switch (green red then goes to a 3 pin connector that change it to blue/white) and looked for the other end of that wire. Found it, it is in a male 6 pin connector (all 6 wires are in it), that plugs into the heater motor wiring. The female end only 5 wires coming out of it. The missing 6th wire? Well, that is the other end that connects to the rear defrost switch (confirmed it, wire is also blue/white). So hook up a jumper wire from the male 6 pin connector to the red/black wire at the rear defroster wire. Turn on switch power now at and through the rear defroster wires. So for I have 4 questions. 1) Where did that other end of the rear defrost wire gone to (what am I missing)? 2) What type of connector is on that missing red/black wire and, is there ANYTHING between the red/black wire (rear defrost wire) that should connect to the blue/white wire (switch to turn on rear defroster)? 3) Does not hooking up the A/C wire to the compressor have anything to do with this issue (maybe there is a different loom that we need to connect from the 6 pin connector to the heater rheostat/motor and goes to the A/C and the rear defroster wire)? 4) I am puzzled by one wire. It is on the passenger side near the kick panel, It is a factory wire, not something someone else added. It has two wires crimped together. One wire is re/back and the other wire is black. Black is ground, red/black is either power to or power from something. But both wires hooked together by the factory just does not compute with my brain cells. HELP Thank you all again. Myself and the customer apricates your help. Ed

thanks for your help. question. Where are the relays for the heat glass located. I know the location of the horn relay(drives side front by kick panel) and there is a 2nd relay on the passenger side also by the kick panel. That relay(passenger side) has a 4 wire connector. I don't know what that relay goes to. It work, yu can hear it click when you turn on the ign. key. Good maps, thanks. Ed

No, you are correct. It is a series 1car. It has a series 2 or 3 center console. The light is yellow and lights. The color codes on the wires you discribe is exactly the colors of the wires we have on the switch and the wires from the switch. The pictures Terrapin Z shows is what we have in the car. Thanks for your information, the colors of the wires was very helpful. Ed

Hi folks, I could use your help. We have a 1971 Series 1 240Z in our shop. It is a Resto-Mod car. It is almost finished, waiting on some Weber jets to finish tuning. In the process of confirming the car will pass a road inspection we discovered the rear window defroster is not working. We also found the windshield washer motor is not working, have not looked into that issue yet. Everything else works as it is suppose to. The wiring harness and rear window defroster is from a series 1 car, the fuse box and rear window defroster switch is from a series 2 car. We have ran on ohms test on the defroster wires in the hatch, the switch and the wires from the switch to the hatch, no issues found. No blown fuse, we have power and ground to the 3 pin Molex connector, we have power at the switch. We can make the unit work, but only by manually connecting wires, then the switch is on all the time. What I would like to find is a wiring diagram of the rear window defroster assembly. So far no luck. Can anybody help? Thanks, stay safe. Ed

Zed Head, I not that clever. Plus, I will most likely forget what I called myself. Thanks for the information. I tried to look Paul up but you have to get on some sort of "site". I tried and got discussed, so I stopped trying. Ed

Like this? I'll remember to go here instead. I do hope I did it correctly this time. Yes Paul did have an engine building service at one time. This engine was built about 12 years ago by him. This is it's first start up since being built. Break in is required also. Thanks Ed

Hi, I'm Ed. Our shop currently has a '71 Series 1 240Z with a Paul Rushman built 280ZX F54 engine, Nissan Maxima round port N47 head. I am having a conversation with "Hoover or 240260280" We are building this car and almost done. The triple weber 40 DCOE series 151's are new to me regarding tuning. When we get more correct information I will update you. I think I should include some of the work done to this engine so people will know what type of a build this is. It's NOT stock by any imagination. Feel free to join in our discussion. Thanks Ed