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Did the POR15 tank seal process today. Now to let it cure. Before/after pic....

Argh. Just got my zcardepot order in for some of the vent hoses. See pic. The special bend hose I thought I was getting is much smaller. Is the one in the package supposed to go on the vent opening just above the sending unit? It obviously doesn't fit the 5/8" vent near the back right bumper. That's the one that was rotted. I guess at this point I'll go buy four feet of that and two elbows. :-(

The diamond pattern vinyl throughout the car is actually in pretty good shape except for the fading and one spot where a CB radio has been mounted, by the looks of it, since its heyday in the 70s. Is the entire door panel consistently the same vinyl? Mine must have a lot of wear along the top because it's a completely different "patina" from the bottom area.

On the topic of door panels, vinyl tunnel covers, plastic panels... I will be on a quest soon to get them a consistent color. My plan right now is: 1. Get in the MSA 240z red upholstery kit (for seats), use that red to match with .... 2. Interior plastic - go to the Sherwin Williams automotive paint store and get them to match a good paint. 3. Vinyls on doors/strut towers/tunnel - buy a matching vinyl dye/stain from Sherwin Williams or online. What's worked for you guys who have done it? I'm also strongly leaning towards spending the $$$ to replace all 6 interior plastic panels, save maybe the rear. Source from zcardepot.

Ha, ok. Well, today I decided to pull the trigger on paltech roundtops. On order. Does that change the discussion? :-)

Yes, I plan to drive it a lot. Not daily driver, but I bought it to enjoy it on the road. It doesn't currently have the heat shield, but I did order a used one.

Is it kosher to leave the fuel rails exposed instead of wrapping them in heat shield? (I currently have original flat top carbs on my 1973 240z, fyi, and they are wrapped in two layers of ugly mess.) Started wondering about it since I've got my fuel rails off right now -- part of my end to end cleaning of gas tank and fuel lines. I see pics like this with exposed fuel rail:

I tried for several days in several ways to get that grey paint off of the 3 original hubcaps. It was definitely a grade above spray paint because break cleaner was barely making progress. I wound up trying something more abrasive and that worked too well. :-( I gave up and bought a used set of 4 off of eBay. They aren't perfect by any means, but I am blowing through $$$ in other areas of this car so had to rein it in. I'll post a pic once I get them in and on the car.

Thanks, @Jeff BerkBerk for the info on the door latch. Got it off. Looks like there is a sweet spot for putting the flathead screwdriver to pop it out without damage. See pic. @Mark Maras, the rag trick worked. Nothing else did. Mutilated the clip, but that's better than breaking the crank.

I'm seriously considering replacing the steel fuel supply line. Spent the afternoon repeatedly flushing out the line with break cleaner, and carb cleaner. Plugged it and let it sit for an hour, etc. Some say to use lacquer thinner. At any rate, debris keeps coming out. I may try pipe cleaners or flossing with weedeater line, but am also considering buying a set from classictube.com. I'd sure like to know why the 1973 version is almost 3x the price of the 1969-72 versions. 240z fuel supply line

The longer 6+ ft vent hose that runs to the opposite side was at one point replaced with a 1/2" heater hose. Argh. You can see in the pic where is has rotted out where it meets up with the tank. And the "special" large vent hose with the preformed bend is toast. Between this and the fact that my shifter boot was disintegrated, it's no wonder the cabin reeked of fuel and exhaust. The other linked thread was useful, although there are a lot of dead links to reference and parts sites. This last pic was buried in there. Diagram of the tank with hose sizes called out.

Step 1 is done. Dropped! Tank goes to the radiator shop Monday. Noted that there was no O-ring on the sending unit. Both of the big vapor hoses along the tail were dry-rotted. Anyone know of a good source for them?

Speaking of door panels, I am going to try to salvage the ones I have, but I saw the $419 set on ZCarDepot yesterday. Pricey. Has anyone had experience with those? Link: 240z Door Panel Set Related question: How does one go about removing the door panel without tearing something up? I'm stuck on how to get off the window crank handle and door latch. Has to be a technique I'm missing.

As for the impact on the bolsters, I've already taken to the habit of sliding my seat back all the way before getting in or out. And I'm not a tall guy. Lol.

Yes, the color really does differ that much throughout the interior. The original tunnel and strut tower covers are vinyl, correct? If so, yes, I'm inclined to just move forward with picking my seat covers and then trying to paint the tunnel, tower covers, door panels, plastic interior panels to all match closely with my seat color.

The bolsters here meaning the underlying metal upper and lower structures? I don't want to try to repair the current seat covers. I don't think they're original, and they are the ugly (imo) cloth/vinyl combo. Would prefer leather. Definitely need new foam sets.

First 3 pics - This is my current interior. 4th pic: What I think a restored interior would look like. 5th pic: Two seat cover options on eBay, add in New seat foams from California Datsun, etc. But, what's considered properly restored? Take the seats I have to an upholstery shop and have them match the console cover? It is faded. I think I would be better off to get the seats sorted out first, then look for someone to dye/color the rest of the interior red to match. Also have to sort out a redo of the door and window quarter panels.

Is this not the right color? California Datsun 240z can

The headers appear to be 3 to 2. And then the two remaining send through the muffler and then two stacked tailpipes.

Yeah, I think he was confused.

That's beautiful, JFA. If you've seen the earlier pics from under my hood, you know it needs some prettying up. I may take you up on that at some point this summer. No heat shield currently. See pic.

FYI, I called Poly Performance and they said you have to take the shock apart to install the foam bumpers, and these KYB shocked are welded, so looks like a no go.

Do you know offhand if the shaft bumper is 5/8" or 7/8"? They list two products.

I guess we know @grannyknot isn't OCD. I'd wake up in the middle of the night in a cold sweat thinking about that one rogue bolt. :-)

Thanks. Hmmm. Would you know if those are compatible with the KYB shocks + Eibach springs I plan to use?