Alex240z

Hello, long time no see. So after doing the trick it does seem that the floats liked being at 10mm rather than 14mm. She runs little rich but there’s no bogging or lost of power under load. She drove well for an hour until the carbs vapor locked. I haven't checked yet to see if my temp gauge that was reading 250f the entire time was working or not. I just assumed it didn’t because I changed the termo, the sensor, radiator, and some hoses. After it cooled down it started up again only for me to run out of gas. Guess my fuel gauge wasn’t working. Other issues at the moment are: brakes are leaking from the hardline to soft line in the front. No clue why because I just changed them with SS but both are leaking. I rebuilt my brake booster I’m missing a locking washer for it so brakes are meh. Trans leaks quite a bit. But seeing it’s a 4 speed i don’t know if I want to fix and maybe save to switch to a new trans like a cd009. However! Some good news. I got a hold of a diesel crank and I just tore down a f54 block. In a couple of weeks I’ll be ordering the 3.2L stroker from robello. Also got a hold of 3 type T mikuni 40phh. I haven’t done much looking into what cylinder head to use because I have a e88 and a p90. I think I’m going to stay with the p90 because I’ve heard it lowers compression and I might do a turbo application in the future we’ll see. However I have no clue what valves, springs, cam, and etc specs to use. I do have a cracked p90a around so I might learn how to port and unshroud the valve on that one just to save me some money. I might create a discussion on here about my restoration project just don’t what topic to put it under.

Here’s a photo

forgot to mention that yes I can remove it.

I’ve been able to remove the nozzles without taking it off. Only thing it really did was stop the adjustment nut from going lower then it was set so it doesn’t come off the thread. Which the spring already does I believe

Only issue with that method I found is I have a plate under the locking nut that stop it’s from going lower. I don’t know if it was set wrong or what because it’s adjustable. But if I try to do 10 full turns (not sure if it’s half or full) it just stops around 4 1/2. After a search of 4 screw carbs I couldn’t find one with the stopping plate.

So I tuned the car. Doesn’t help that I’m colorblind (a bit) so the color tune is a bit hard for me to tell. I think it ran lean because the engine was bogging when I test drove it. Temp gauge goes all the way up when I drive the car. Probably dead. (I hope) I richened the carbs a half turn then it started popping so I’m going to lean it out an eight or more. One thing I’m curious about is the float setting. I have a 4 screw and the setting for 70-71 carbs are 13/32” but I set mine at 9/16” which is for 72. Not sure if this could be a cause as well.

Under my impression I thought dual point would give a better spark. After some research it seems like it was made for emissions. I’ll retune the front carb and see if it makes it any better. Wonder if that was the cause of the pops under load.

hello! it's been a while. Unfortunately I got caught up with work and other matters. I finally got some progress and discovered other things. My carbs are finally working! I ordered a 14mm color tune kit and I was able to dial in the carbs to idle around 800 and I got them to run a little rich at higher rpms. I found out something however which I don't know about. I did all the tuning on the carbs with the vacuum advance off. The second I put the line back onto the first carb the car started "tweaking out." Started misfiring and popping in the high rpms. The distributor is a single point kind and I do have a dual point laying around. Just don't know how to convert my electrical for it. Thanks for any input.

Im curious how it idles when you remove the center link. It's going to be that bent one in the center. Remove that piece and screw in the idle air control screws on both carbs one and a half turns from when they start to affect the butterfly's position. The linkage will visibly move. It'll rev at like 2000 so don't be worried. But see if you can bring it down to 800-700 and then use a carbsync to sync the airflow. If you can it means the linkages are messed up. If not then I'm not sure.

hello! Some "progress." So... I guess I wasn't getting spark on all engines. I was getting about 3/4 cylinders max. Which is great to know cause I drove the car like that. Sweet. In a way makes sense why the front carb was always running lean while the rear carb wasn't doing much because it was the front 3 cylinders that were getting sparked. I got myself a new set of spark plug cables and put them on. Haven't had the chance to actually try the car out because its final's week. Another thing I got done was putting the original needles back on (n27). I was running m43 needles I got off a kit because thats the only way the engine would run. They were a couple of mm shorter than a n27 needle. Then I tried a n54 needle that also came with the kit. Hopefully I've have better luck with the n27. Also I found a method to set the float with the jet is turned down 10 turns so I'll try that out. Wish me luck.

1st and 6th spark plug. Weird that I’m running rich but the engine won’t start unless I fully push down the pedal. I’m completely lost. In the mean time I’m going to get a new pair of plug cables

Make sure your clutch kit is compatible with your clutch collar! You'll end up being like me when I didn't check and had to take that transmission off several times.

As for the Yugo, I saw one at one of the junk yards around my area. If they would take 100$ I would've bought it.

Haven't noticed a smell. Pretty sure its the engine running out of fuel. Plus I know I messed up setting the floats to 16mm and not 12/14mm. IT did run at 1500rpm for a bit. Then rpm went down and started to die. When I tried to start it back on it had little moments where the engine tried to start but didn't. I have a single point distributor and I put it at 10-12 degrees A. I've tested all 6 plugs and changed the spark plugs for all 6 cylinders.

Progress: nothing. Engine won’t start. Getting spark. Probably float bowl issue. Set them at 16mm but might need to go 2 higher? Have a feeling the hoses might be bad too from the float bowl to the jet. Got some off zcardepot but I might’ve not cut them long enough. Anyone know where I can get replacements?

Hahah that car reminds me of my dad’s yugo. Broke down after 200 miles from the dealer! I consider myself very lucky. I’ve been saving for a while to get one although my dad wanted me to put the money into a new car. Comes at a surprise cause he bought one when he first came to this country (280z 2+2). Where I live these’s Z have become stupidly expensive. No offense to the s30’s but they aren’t worth the money that people are asking for in the condition they are. I know a lot of “clout chasers” (fame seekers) who want these cars because “they are cool.” It’s very typical what they do next: RB swap, wide body, fender mirrors, and etc etc. Not saying these builds aren’t cool (but jealous cause I don’t got daddy’s money) just never felt these guys actually care for the original car. At that point it doesn’t feel like a 240z to me anymore. I don’t know! Just my two cents.

I live in Huntington Beach, California. We have a lot of that HOA here although my particular neighborhood isn't HOA, a lot of people think it is just because they either lived here their whole lives or because they paid big money to live here. We also have some weird laws like if you have a non operable car in your drive way and it "makes a smell" and the neighbors complain, the city can tow the car if you don't move it. It's fair in a way but annoying when your neighbors threatens you with it. I moved it in my parents garage (I'm 20) thankfully so now I can enjoy the exhaust smell all to myself!

When you do check look into the carburetor. Push the piston up and use your phone to take a photo of the side or a video. Send that photo to us so we can see how the open the butterfly is.

It appears to me the connecting linkage that runs parallel to the firewall from the bell crank linkage to the longer one is too short. It's keeping the linkage from laying at rest. When I get the chance I'll send a photo of how I fixed it.

Bit late to the party so I'm not quite sure where you are as of right now with high idling carbs. I just recently posted about my carburetor "run away" some weeks ago. Seeing your photos of the linkages they looked too depressed. Is your linkage allowing the butterflies to fully close when you completely back off the idle air screws located on the carbs? I had that issue where my linkage was too short and causing the butterflies to be too open and cause the engine to appear to run away. Also look for vacuum leaks. Spray starter fluid everywhere and I mean everywhere. Did you make sure your intake is clean where it meets the head and gasket? Is the gaskets between the carbs and manifold healthy? Do you have gaskets between the balance tube and manifold? Are you certain you covered all the holes in the balance tube? Check your PCV valve. Mine was leaking and caused a vacuum leak. Unfortunately I found way too many places where vacuum leaks can occur and in my case all these places had vacuum leaks. Just takes time and patiences to find them all out. EDIT: I just saw your video of the 4000 RPM idle YouTube video and I think it might be your linkage? My linkage connection from the bell crank throttle to the throttle piece that goes to the manifold connects "on top" not under. Here is a photo for reference. The bottom photo is yours.

It's pretty interesting seeing each country's citizens react differently to covid. Most of my family come from Montenegro in Eastern Europe. For a long time there weren't any cases of covid in Montenegro. I believe it was the last country in Europe to report a case. Either there weren't any cases or the technological backwards Montenegrins couldn't care. According to my father who was over there during the outbreak, a family from New York came to go to a funeral in his village and gave everyone Covid. Most of my dads older friends died. Interestingly enough everyone that wore a mask didn't get sick. After that it went all around town and eventually though the country. Another interesting aspect of it all was the absolutely no care given attitude from the Montenegrins. They just continued to go on with their lives. This attitude stems from two different trains of thought that all Montenegrins encompass. Their hardheadedness and their laziness. Its a joke in Eastern Europe that no one is lazier than a Montenegrin. My grandma got sick, went to the hospital, got tested, came back positive, and her response to it all? "Oh well I die I die" and she continued on her life smoking 2 packs of Marlboro gold at 76 after suffering two strokes, a heart attack, and her loss of vision. She surprisingly lived and got over covid in about a week and a half.

Alright did some work and got some results. I had a three screw su carb butterfly assembly so I used that to replace my messed up one. Worried that this might cause an air leak on the sides of the carb because it felt slippery. Linkages should be fine because I removed all the brass pieces off the 3 screw and used the 4 screw linkage pieces. I only used the chrome piece that holds the butterfly. Set the floats to 14mm in the front and 16mm in the back. Had to set the idle air screw to 3 turns. Only way it would start. RPM rises slowly so there is an air leak somewhere. I think the issue with the front carb not having enough fuel was due to an air leak like you all said. I took the manifold off and the manifold had bits and pieces of old gasket which I guess I forgot to take off when I put on the new gasket. Genius. The manifold was filled with fuel but it wasn't all going into the engine. You could see the ways it was escaping on the gasket. Just have to tighten the intake nuts a little more to stop the vacuum leak. I haven't tried fine tuning just yet because my neighborhood is complaining about the smell. Ill keep you all posted.

Someone jammed it in and broke the head off....

Could this be an issue? Just found it