Alex240z

Haven’t found anything. Sprayed around but haven’t found anything. I’m surprised these carbs are giving me such an issue.

There might be an air leak. I just don’t know where! I’ll look around. If you listen in this video I think you can hear it when I put the camera closer to the front carb.

I have a feeling my jets and needles are not compatible. I changed the needles to n47 and they run super lean. I was running m43. I think I should buy some ztherapy jets and sm needles because there isnt any other reason as far as I see for the carbs not to run.

fuel lines are fine. Plenty of fuel comes out from the hoses. Banjo bolt clean needle valve clean Fuel leaves the float bowl thru the jet fine it seems. Measured the bowl to have 17mm of fuel. IMG_3190.MOV

Banjo bolt filter was removed. Needle valve been replaced. Outlet at the bottom of the float is good. Jet line replaced. Jet is good.

Ah I blew through the banjo to adjust the float so I don’t think it’s clogged. Plus I replaced the needle valve. The line was replaced with the line from z car depot.

Piston rises just fine. Needle doesn’t appear to be dragging off. not quite sure what is the needle valve Fuel is coming to the carb. Just don’t know if it’s going past the needle. the jet line has been replaced

I’m back! Only took a week 😞. Carbs are acting up (again) rear carb works perfectly fine. Runs a little rich but nothing bad. Front carb is not doing it’s job at all! Runs super lean no mater how low I put the mixture screw. I used the technique of pushing up the piston about a mm at 1250rpm and the engine starts to die when I do it on the front but will increasing on the rear. I thought it might’ve been my float so I increased the float from 16mm to 12mm. Didn’t do anything. I removed the jet from the bottom and the fuel came out just fine from it. Adjusted the nut all the way up and push the piston up to put the jet back in. Could it be a needle issue? IMG_3184.MOV

A friend had a clutch collar off a 280z so I just sent it and it worked perfectly. Finally after a year I've finally been able to drive the car! She runs hot however 😕 water pump is probably bad because water is leaking, might need some new radiator, and some other stuff here and there. Carbs need a little tuning because they don't do well under heavy load like when I do a pull. Thanks for all the help guys.

What can I do to fix this? Do you guys need me to take any measurements of particular things. Please let me know!.

Looks like your observation is correct. I don’t have a helper at the moment so this is the clutch at resting

Thank you. It’s already set at 8 inches from the wall.

I’ll max it out and see if it has any affect.

Clutch is new some cheap power torque from O’reilys. Had a feeling that it was the issue. Looks like I’m going to have to remove the transmission yet again 😞

Nope if I’m in neutral it grinds so badly I can’t put it in gear

The pictures are old but they are with the clutch pedal down. I’ll take another photo today because I had to replace the clutch fork retaining spring because it went bad.

Let me know if I have to move this to another part of the forums because this is no longer a carb issue

So I’m back after long work on my car. I changed the needles and cleaned out the carbs. Finally worked! (Not really) car reeved at 2000 and increased over time at idle. Used starter fluid to check for leaks and guess that my intake wasn’t fully flat had to tighten it a little more. Also PCV was bad. Finally got the carbs to idle and got the correct fuel mixture! Onto the second issues the clutch. Haven’t figured out what the issue is with the clutch. The gears just will not engage at all when I push the clutch all the way down. It looks like it is engaging when I looked under the car. Not sure what the issue is. I have a new slave and master but no dice. Note that the fork looks weird. The pin was bad but I replaced it so it holds the fork properly.

Interesting didn’t know that there was an adjustment on the pedal itself I’ll have to check it out. Thanks

I got a carb rebuild kit so I’ll see what I can do. Might change the needle cause the one currently on the piston is pretty long. Not sure if that has anything to do with the amount of gas that it allows into the carb. I feel that I might’ve added too much oil to the dampers but idk if that has an effect to it.

Found one of the issues. My timing was completely garbage. It was like 90 R. I put the engine in TDC and put the distributor back and put it at roughly 17 A. Runs a lot better doesn’t shoot gas out anymore. Drove her for a bit but tach died then my clutch screwed up so it doesn’t engage anymore which is fantastic. Carbs run alright but once I try to put it down to 700/800rpm they just die. I have to put the Jett nut all the way down to even drive.

Aw I see. What do you think the Jett issue stems from?

You can see that there is a vacuum leak in the video but I got it taken care of. Going to mess around more with the screws and see what I get.

I got the car to idle 700-800 only when the Jett nut is all the way down. The front car feels like it isn’t running at all. No matter what I do with the flow meter the red ball doesn’t move on the front. She backfired a lot because it’s running way to rich IMG_2992.MOV

Thanks for the advice. I opened the banjo up to find a bunch of garbage in there filters looked fine but there was a lot of crud in there. I cleaned it up and later today I’ll see if it does anything thanks.