jitenshakun

40 accel. F15 emulsion 45f6 idle 150 main 210 air corrector 55 spill jet 33 main venturi 3.5 aux venturi. Happiness.

FTR a 50 year old Nissan crate engine fires first try with some gasoline thrown at it.

A venerated Z enthusiast is a day or so away from turning a brand new L18 engine over as part of a restoration. The engine is a properly new, never fired L18 assembled with a black no VIN block and SSS parts. It's life has been as a collector piece. A question I have is how many new, never fired engines are out there? I'm not talking rebuilt with new parts, but an engine that has been collecting dust for over 50 years.

Does anyone have any hands on experience with vortex (my term) machined velocity stacks (air horns) on a L6? Ideally, experience on Webers but if a difference resulted on Mikunis I'm all ears. Link to product: http://admix-racing.com/product2.html Thank you.

36 is going to feel a bit big. 2.4L is usually 32 tops, 34 for a 2.8L. A 4.5 aux is fine. 3.5 is an option.

You're a bit rich on main for a L24 and may need to be in the 120-135 range. The 60F8 is too big. 50f8 is where you'll want to be. The 45 pump jet depends on the intake/exhaust (probably 0.55). If you find a bad bog on acceleration it'll mean you need to change you accel combo.

I don't think it's a gunk or cleanliness problem. My guess is the diaphragm itself just doesn't play nicely with the spring at some point. I tried rebuilds, new aftermarket pumps, and combinations of tops, bottoms, and internals between all of it. I gave up without a mech solution.

They seem to do odd things when they go back together. Easy part can feel ok, but then they don't work. I don't have a solution, just saying the mech pumps are a pain.

Have you ran the pump into a bucket to capture the gas yet? That'll completely answer if it is a pump issue.

Try to get another mech pump and try it.

Wow - this is amazing information. Thank you very much for sharing!

For sure and if you decide to go another way I'm always interested in a set of 45s.

You can do it. There isn't any mystery to it. You just need the idle mixture screw and idle jets to he somewhere in the right ballpark to balance and then you're off to the races.

I feel your pain. I went through all this a little over a year ago. I ended up with an electric pump by the tank.

That'll work, but it could get "pumped" and still not flow fuel. Checking the line after the pump is the best way to know if it is working.

Catch 22 is you have to get it running before you can sync it. To sync disconnect the throttle linkage and set the throttle screw one by one. It's easier on a Weber as they aren't intertwined like SUs.

Also, aftermarket mech fuel pumps seem to work for 0min to 30min on average. This isn't an issue if you are using your original pump.

You just push it in and wiggle it a bit. If there's lots of resistance your on a lobe and if it slides right in you are between a lobe. Either way, it'll start pumping as soon as the engine spins. To rule out fuel flow disconnect the line between the carbs and mech pump. Have a friend crank the car and watch for fuel flow. A bucket is handy at this point.

You just push it in and wiggle it a bit. If there's lots of resistance your on a lobe and if it slides right in you are between a lobe. Either way, it'll start pumping as soon as the engine spins. To rule out fuel flow disconnect the line between the carbs and mech pump. Have a friend crank the car and watch for fuel flow. A bucket is handy at this point.

If it'll go with throttle try upping the throttle screw (back left of the carbie) or by screwing out the idle mixture screw (one on each side, near rear of the carbie). The former basically adds more throttle and the latter adds more fuel for the base level of throttle at idle.

Can you post up all the jets along with your observed AFRs at certain drive conditions? For base values try the inline calculator. A 2.8L and "for power" will get you something. https://www.carbparts.eu/calc/

I'd tippy-tippy-tap-tap the end with a small pick or the world's smallest punch. You might get lucky and it'll pop out. As a less invasive approach I'd try compressed air from the throttle body side. Again, you might get lucky and it'll pop up and out.

Steve does stand behind his work, but time is time. I hope it works out soon.

Ouch. That stings. A buddy has a Bonk cam for sale. He bought it but has decided to wait until he can do a long block rather than just popping a cam in.