jitenshakun

Both are on Facebook and home based Datsun guys. All my dealings were via FB, FB Messenger, and texts. Who needs a website anymore?

Hi all, My restoration finished and with it my refreshed L28 picked up a Steve Bonk cam and a full head port and polish with intake matching by Reg Samuru. The cam has a great tone and idle and winds right up fast. I definitely notice more grunt mid range (where I drive) and overall am very pleased with it. The head was fully ported - and I do mean ported. Intake and exhaust had a lot of metal taken out an my intake was port matched, including locator pins on the head. Overall it is flowing more air, as measured by the increases in jet sizes to maintain nice AFRs (13.5 ish). There are lots of options out there but do consider reaching out to Steve in Chicagoland and Reg in Edmonton, AB, Canada.

Yup, based on you application. Where you want to make power, what your cam is doing, etc. Port match, run a reasonable velocity stack, a good air filter and call it job done.

I was wondering the same thing, but is it to the choke or to the carb body?

Oh, and the Cannon is perfectly good. For any intake do have it port matched to your head though. That'll help any intake out.

Kyusha House is the premier Mikuni support right now.

There's a handy online calculator for DCOEs that's built by input from users and suppliers. It splits between 40s and 45s on a 2.8L on conservative or spirited driving. Extrapolating, I'd say pick up a bit extra for the 3.1L. https://www.carbparts.eu/calc

44s hands down. You may find 40s run out of steam depending on your cam and head work.

I've been following rules of thumb on emulsion tubes but I think I need to select it to move the transition points on the circuits. My hypothesis is my daily town driving habits have me sitting in the transition between idle and main, leading to being a bit rich. Total hypothesis that I need to test in the spring.

That's an interestingly lean combination with F11 emulsion and 45f9 idles.

My post is there to live as an answer when someone uses google. For example, If you have a L24, L26, or L28E running a stock ignition coil you should use the FSM suggested gap for your carbed non fuel injected engine. BPR6ES spark plug off the shelf. Jury is out a little on dropping the resistor and going with a BP6ES. If you run a juiced up ignition coil run the -11 to pick up the bigger gapping.

Stock coil. I got an answer elsewhere. Unless your spark is hot BP®6ES is the way to go.

Is the increased gap for the EFI cars a function of injector, distributor, and coil? Does it take all 3 before you bump up the gap? Other posts say to run the -11 once you move away from points, but they seem to imply full EFI. Does it really matter?

If running a pertronix and the stock coil on a carbed L28E is the BP6ES-11 the right plug or should I run the smaller gap on the BP6ES?

I'd appreciate hearing what you jet selection is.

Popping out the floats and measuring their distance to contact with the needle is a good measure too. For the bog at acelleration from low RPM I had to step outside the online gospel of jet selection on L-engines. Post up your jetting and we can chime in.

I haven't had this issue with my unshielded triples over wrapped headers so I'd look elsewhere. Are you able to mount an inline fuel pressure gauge to monitor pressure? Have you popped the inspection lids to check bowl fuel level with vernier calipers cold and hot? If fuel never differs and is always good it's not the fuel. To your comment about throttle at low RPM, would that be at 1,700-2,000? Say, every time you come around a corner in regular traffic?

Thank you for the fuller reply. I found your links helpful. Well, at least I now know I'm back in for a fun time with my favourite space on the Datsun...

Aww crap. I'm 6'4“ and have to get the radio out. I just did the heater water **** so I'm not looking forward to getting back under there.

I'm in the same boat and my plan is to go with Mike's covers from Banzai given they were what Nissan used for the Heritage restorations in the '90s. https://www.zzxdatsun.com/catSoftTrim.php

Hello, Is it possible to pop the radio out by itself? I've undone the 2 bracket bolts on the sides and the faceplate corner screws on the front but it's still solidly in place. Does the whole heater control panel and faceplate have to come off to get the radio out? I'm cleaning up/removing the last of some CB and forward speaker wiring. Thank you.

Does anyone have a lead on a 1973 emession decalset?

Not very good decals and Norm shorted me on a set of points. Don't order from Zeddsaver.

Is a different needle needed for a 2.8L?

SUs don't have a function like an accelerator pump on a Weber, which is one of the reason Webers have a slight edge on immediate acceleration. The spring and oil are about damping the piston to keep the engine a bit smoother instead of always micro fluctuating with engine speed changes. Spring and oil work together to set how much it takes to get going and at what rate it goes once it is going, respectively.