Everything posted by jitenshakun
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Modified SU carb needles for L28
Springs would only effect acceleration right? What was the final consensus on the same needle for L24 vs L28?
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Should I get Triple Mikunis and is this a fair price? 2,500$USD
It's all about what you are willing to pay. That price isn't far off a set in good shape, as determined by internals more than dust on the outside. A lot of patina can show up on a carb that's mint where it counts...
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L crate engine recommendations
It'll be a good question for Eiji.
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L crate engine recommendations
42 DCOE, so medium ones.
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L crate engine recommendations
I've been emailing with Eiji and I'm wondering about carbs. Is anyone running one of his stg 3 running a Weber DCOE set up? If so, how'd it go? What sort of jetting did it take? Did the carbs let you reach potential on the dyno?
- 280z With Brand New Triple Webers, Baseline Jetting?
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280z With Brand New Triple Webers, Baseline Jetting?
I made a number of incremental changes back and forth on ilde jets and mains trying to get it right. It got me into the ballpark, but I only nailed it down once in added an AFR meter. My main "ah-ha" was when I switch to an F7 emulsion tube, which allowed me to find a sweet spot between way too lean and way too rich. It moved my progression point and let me run a bigger main jet and a smaller idle jet. I haven't dyno'ed my final setup, but it was driving great.
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280z With Brand New Triple Webers, Baseline Jetting?
That's a fair bit different than what works for me on a L28 e88 combo. DCOE 42 though... Choke 32mm 2nd vent 3.5 Main 135 Emulsion F7 Air 165 Idle 55F13 Pump 40 1.5" air horns Elevation 3,500' A stumble off idle was my main problem and what most of my changes were made to address. The 1,100rpm to 2,000rpm was atrocious when I started.
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Parts for Sale: Datsun Spirit Stage III Engine
PM sent. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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Emission decals
Mike (Banzai) doesn't have a '73 on his website. Mine came from ZedSaver. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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Emission decals
I picked up "1973" emissions decals for the underside of my hood. They look a lot like my 1972 decals, but a bit different than whats under hood on the '73. As it turns out there was a change late '73. Has anyone been able to source late '73 stickers? Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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Radio delete pocket
I can say the JDM-Parts 432 reproduction radio delete pockets fits like a glove. Slotted in immediately and the bolt holes lined up nicely. A bit pricey for a pocket, but cheap compared to trying to find a proper radio and plate. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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Radio delete pocket
Has anyone used the JDM Parts radio delete pocket? I'd like to pop one into my '73 and wanted to check fitment. Thanks. https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/reproduction-radio-delete-pocket-for-fairlady-z-z432r-datsun-240z?variant=25008521737 Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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DCOE 40 "burn your eyes rich"
The "book values" sometimes lump the L24 and L26 values together, which doesn't make complete sense. No engine runs exactly the same so I'd always be prepared to move "off book" with Weber jetting. I run an F7 emulsion tube and the only place that said that was the way to go was the Deshammill book; all the online Datsun stuff said I should run a leaner emulsion tube. In this case I'd have a hard time believing the 60F6 idle jet is the right one for the L26. I'm sure it guarantees the car will start when you bolt on the Webers by virtue of being so rich, which might be why they spec the kit with them. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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DCOE 40 "burn your eyes rich"
Idle jet lean to rich goes: F3, F1, F7, F1, F4, F2, F13, F11, F8, F9, F12, F6 At 60 I'd say the pig rich is because it's the richest possible AND too big. Lean to rich on Emulsion goes: F11, F15, F16, F2, F8 and F7. The F11 you have is a lean choice, but emulsion tubes are a bit tricky. They change how and when you main jets work under acceleration, so impact how much the idle has to do. The 125 main jet might be about right. For now, I'd scale way back on the idle jet, like 55F2, and leave the main and emulsion. I prefer to go one step at a time but 60F6 is way out there. I run a 55F13 on my L28 block.
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DCOE 40 "burn your eyes rich"
Don't be afraid to mix it up. None of the internet jetting worked for me. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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DCOE 40 "burn your eyes rich"
Stamped on the jet. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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DCOE 40 "burn your eyes rich"
At 2 psi he isn't flooding the bowls. I'm surprised it runs rich with the idle screwed in all the way. That practically shuts the fuel off. Screwed in for lean, out for rich... Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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DCOE 40 "burn your eyes rich"
Is your friend running a mech or electric fuel pump? Either way, a pressure regulator may be needed as Webers only need 3psi or so of fuel pressure. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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DCOE 40 "burn your eyes rich"
Can you post up the jets? Its as easy as popping the inspection cover and using a flathead to back out the jets. Idle jet, main, and emulsion tube at the minimum please.
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Weber 42 DCOE 8
Thank you. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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Weber 42 DCOE 8
Here's what I've landed on for my L28/e88 with DCOE 42: Choke 32mm 2nd vent 3.5 Main 135 Emulsion F7 Air 165 Idle 55F13 Pump 40 1.5" air horns Elevation 3,500' I have no hesitations across all types of acceleration conditions. My most problematic condition (slow acceleration off idle jet) is now a "spike" in AFR to 15. Previously it was to +20. My cruising idle is a bit rich (11 AFR) but compared to all the +/- I did it's the best of the tradeoffs across jet combinations. The single biggest change was going to the F7 emulsion tube, which didn't show up in any Z tips. It came from Des Hammill as a "will work with most applications" statement. I haven't put it on a dyno, nor do I plan to. I had a car that could barely get up hills and was terrible out of corners while daily driving. I know have a car that snaps whenever I accelerate, pulls all the way at WOT, and has AFRs between 11 and 15 the whole time. Pretty happy as a first time Weber tuner.
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Weber 42 DCOE 8
Bit of an update. I figure the PO set up the carbs based on the picture below. I added in a wideband and nailed down that the carbs were pig rich everywhere with a really lean acceleration. I've leaned out idle jets, main jets, and idle mixture. The next step is to bump up acceleration, followed by narrowing the emulsion tube. I also learned my engine is a recently rebuilt stock bottom end (l28) with a stock e88 (l24) head. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
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Tuning 40 DCOE Weber 151 on an L24
I have someone that can help with watching the progression holes and butterfly. They are spaced, but not a lot. I have new gaskets on the way so I can measure when I swap those in. I'd like to eliminate the chance of a vacuum leak.
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Tuning 40 DCOE Weber 151 on an L24
Chokes for 42 DCOE are had to come by because the carb is non-standard. The carbs have 2 progression holes.